The Content Of The Article:
- 1. Create bed border
- 2. The best varieties for every purpose
- 3. Avoid frost damage by prevention
- 4. When and how often do you have to cut?
- Video: Cutting boxwood - That's how it works
- 5. The ideal tool
- 6. Cutting Technique: The perfect book ball
- 7. Location and ground
- 8. Crop propagation
- 9. Beautiful winter protection for the pot boxwood
- 10. Properly pour and fertilize
1. Create bed border
The boxwood for borders is usually offered in a pot, sometimes even rootless in small bundles. The optimal planting time is the spring. Put the roots in a bucket of water, then loosely soil and work with compost as needed. Then mark the position of the bedding border with a planting string and lay out the plants - with 10 to 15 cm plants you need about ten pieces per meter. The insertion is best on loose ground with a planting trowel. Finally, pour in the new edging and cut it back to two thirds with the hedge trimmer. Keep wet until waxing and fertilize in early June.
For higher book sculpures you need stronger growing varieties
2. The best varieties for every purpose
Buchs is not equal to Buchs, because in the vigor, the leaf shape and color, there are significant differences between the different boxwood varieties. While the best faintly growing varieties such as suffruticosa or the more frost hardy blue honeys are used for hedging, higher hedgerows can be found in the wild species Buxus sempervirens or fast growing varieties such as 'rotundifolia' and 'handsworthiensis'. The same applies to cut figures: For small balls you should use 'Suffruticosa' or 'Green Gem', for larger sculptures (photo) use the higher varieties. Variegated varieties like 'Elegantissima' are relatively frost sensitive and therefore always need a sheltered location.
3. Avoid frost damage by prevention
Like all evergreens, the boxwood suffers in cold winters
In permafrost and clear skies, the risk of frost damage is great because the leaves dry out easily. With shading nets you can prevent the worst, but this is hardly practicable with long hedges and borders. To prevent frost damage, you should not plant Buchs in the blazing sun. You can also avoid damage by selecting the right variety - 'Blauer Heinz', 'Handsworthiensis' and 'Herrenhausen' are especially hardy. Fertilization in September with Patentkali (also called Kalimagnesia, available in the land trade) promotes the lignification and thus the frost hardness of the shoots and leaves.
4. When and how often do you have to cut?
Boxwood should be cut several times a year
Basically, the more often, the better. Boxwood tolerates a cut every four weeks without further ado. Strong-growing varieties only become dense when you cut more than once a year. The season is limited to the main growing season from April to September. Outside this time a pruning is not necessary because the plants hardly grow anyway. And the more you cut, the better you'll need to provide your boxwoods with water and nutrients to quickly replace the missing leaves.
Video: Cutting boxwood - That's how it works
5. The ideal tool
Cordless Shrub Shear
The cut with a cordless shrub shear is comfortable, but for two to three bookballs the purchase is usually not worthwhile. Beginners should first use a pair of mechanical scissors to practice because you can easily cut off too much with motorized equipment. For cutting simple shapes, a special boxwood trimmer with a short edge is ideal. It must be very sharp, so that the tough shoots can be easily cut through and do not slip when cutting. The classic sheep shear is suitable only for shoots that are not yet heavily wooded. With regular shape cutting, however, it is a good tool, because you can work out the contours well with more complex figures.
6. Cutting Technique: The perfect book ball
With a template made of cardboard can be formed quickly and easily even balls
If you want to get a nice boxwood cut without tools, follow these steps: First cut a horizontal "equator" and four vertical "longitudes" into the ball. If these tracks are evenly round, it is easy to cut the remaining fields to the correct length. A good idea is a cardboard template (photo): First measure the diameter of the book ball with a folding rule. Then attach a felt-tip pen to a string that is half the length of the diameter of the book's ball. Fix the measured piece of string between your thumb and forefinger and hold it exactly to the edge of the cardboard. Then draw a semicircle from the top of the cardboard edge to the bottom. Finally, cut out the semicircle - and the template is done. For the boxwood cut, place the template in several places on the book ball and cut all the branches down to the edge of the template. Tip: There are also special metal templates for the boxwood cut in specialist shops.
7. Location and ground
Buchs likes nutrient-rich soil
The boxwood grows best on calcareous, loamy soils. If you have a pure sandy soil, you should use plenty of mature compost when planting. The soil must be permeable and moist, but not stunned. As far as the light conditions are concerned, the boxwood is very tolerant. It can tolerate shadows and can also cope with trees in the root area. More difficult are hot locations with high solar radiation, for example in front of a south wall. Here the plants get leaf damage quickly.
8. Crop propagation
Boxwood cuttings are rooted and grow slowly but reliably. If you want large plants quickly, use cuttings that are already 20 to 30 centimeters in size. Very well rooted so-called Risslinge: You simply tear it off in July / August from the mother plant and removed with a sharp knife the protruding bark strip at the crack site. Then shorten all shoots by about one third. The cuttings do not necessarily need a foil cover. You put them in a partially shaded, sheltered place directly into loose, humus rich and loamy garden soil. Professionals cover the bed with black foil before plugging. It suppresses weeds and prevents the soil from drying out.
9. Beautiful winter protection for the pot boxwood
The bark mulch delays the freezing of the root ball
Boxwood roots must be protected from frost in winter by keeping the plants in the pot. Effectively and aesthetically pleasing is a "pot-in-a-pot solution": Place the plant including pot in a much larger planter and fill the space with chopped tree bark (bark mulch) on. Both the inner pot and the planter are placed on two wooden blocks to prevent direct contact with the cold soil.
10. Properly pour and fertilize
Although Buchs is more tolerant of drought than generally assumed, it needs daily water as a container plant in warm, dry weather. Also, occasionally spray the plants occasionally during extended periods of heat to remove dust deposits from the leaves. Even in winter, make sure that the root ball never dries out. Potted plants also regularly need nutrients from mid-April to early August - preferably liquid boxwood fertilizer, which is given once a week with the irrigation water. A typical symptom of nitrogen deficiency is reddish to bronze discoloration.