10 Tips about flowerbeds in autumn

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The autumn plaster in the flower and perennial beds is done quickly. With a few simple steps, the plants are brought into shape and perfectly prepared for the winter. These 10 care measures will thank you for your plants next spring!

1) Cut off sick plants

Asters, Phlox and Indian Nettle are just three examples of perennials that are regularly hit by powdery mildew year after year. In order to reduce the fungal disease, you should cut off the infested plants immediately after flowering to ground level. Although this is no guarantee that it will not break out again next year, the number of spores in the bed will be significantly reduced. Preventively, you can treat the perennials several times with ecofriendly net sulfur next year

2) humus for shrubs in partial shade

Plants that love the penumbra often grow in the wild under larger trees and shrubs in a thick layer of rawhumus of decomposed leaves. Try to reproduce these conditions in the garden as much as possible by distributing a layer of bark compost between the plants every autumn. In addition, you can also apply fresh autumn leaves. The organic material not only replaces the humus content, which is constantly decomposed by the microorganisms, but also protects the plants from frost damage.

3) Rejuvenate perennials by division

Most garden owners share their perennials in the spring. From a horticultural point of view, there is nothing wrong with rejuvenating winter-hardy late-summer flowers such as the fawn in the fall. In the winter you have to do without the decorative seeds, but the plants have more time to grow in until spring and can develop better until the next flower season. The plants are cut with the spade into fist-sized pieces and replanted at the intended places in the bed.

Split fat hen

Dig out the perennials and root bales and separate the bale into two or three parts with a spade, which you can replant. The division allows you to multiply the perennials

4) prairie tea: pruning in late autumn

So-called prairie animals conquer more and more gardens and parks. The easy-care perennials usually grow in a coarse-grained ground cover made of grit or slag - this has the advantage that weeds hardly germinate in the beds because of the dry surface. To preserve this effect over the years, you must clear the beds completely in late autumn and remove any remains with a leaf brush and leaf blower as thoroughly as possible. Decomposed leaves and flowers, which are deposited as humus between the stones, otherwise form a fertile breeding ground for weed seeds.

5) Winterize dahlias in time

The tuber plants bloom from late summer in almost all rainbow colors and are excellent bedding partner for asters, ornamental grasses and other bedding plants. However, dahlias are sensitive to frost and therefore can not stay in the soil in winter. Wait as long as possible with the clearing - only when the frost penetrates easily into the ground, it is time to bring the dahlias into the house. Cut the stems close to the ground, clear the tubers with the grave fork and store them in wooden crates in a mixture of dry sand and humus. Important: Label each tuber with the variety name and / or flower color.

Dahlias overwinter

Let the dahlia tubers dry first. Then store them in a cool but frost-free place, for example in a sand-filled box in the basement. The optimum storage temperature is three to ten degrees

6) Plant flower bulbs

Anyone who does not plant bulbous flowers in their beds will give away flowers for almost two months. Most of the bedding plants will not really get going until the end of April and until then tulips, daffodils and imperial crowns will take over the scepter. Also in May you can set accents with the ornamental tube. Do not plant flower bulbs one at a time, but in each case in small or larger groups in the bed to achieve a good color effect.

7) Winter protection for sensitive species

Glittering candles (Gaura), torch lilies (Kniphofia) and vine rhines (Ruta) do not survive the Central European winters in all regions without winter protection. Above all, strong soil drainage caused by winter precipitation is very much the plants. Cover the root area of ​​these perennials with a thick layer of autumn leaves before the start of winter and stabilize them with a few pine branches so that the leaves are not blown away by the autumn storms. In the spring, the layer is removed again, so as not to hinder the renewal.

Winter protection magnificent candle

It is possible to cut the magnificent candle back to the width of the floor at the end of August to encourage the formation of hibernation buds, thus prolonging the lifespan. We recommend winter protection with foliage and brushwood, which protects against winter wet

8) Life-prolonging measures

Species such as dyer chamomile, cockade flower, ox tongue and maiden eye are inherently short-lived. However, they live much longer, if you do not let them come to seed maturity. For this you should cut the stems about a hand's breadth above the ground by the end of September. The perennials then form additional hibernation buds and enter the new season with renewed strength. Incidentally, even the new varieties of common sunhat (Echinacea) live longer in a pruning in early autumn.

9) Free the evergreens from the autumn leaves

Foliage plant shrubs such as purple bells, elven flowers and berries bear green foliage in milder weather even in winter. Their leaves need free access to sunlight, otherwise they will turn brown and die. Therefore liberate the perennials now regularly in autumn from the fall leaves of the trees. But you should not completely remove it from the bed, but simply leave it between the plants. Here, in turn, it serves as a winter protection valuable services: It delays the freezing of the earth, so that the plants can still absorb moisture even for a certain amount of time and their leaves do not turn brown and die quickly.

Crimson Elf flower

Elven flowers (Epimedium) and purple bells (Heuchera) adorn the beds with their attractively shaped and colored leaves

10) Remove weeds

In a well-grown perennial herb weeds usually cause little problems - there are just too few gaps in which they could germinate. Nevertheless, you should check your bed again for weed growth in the autumn and tear out all unwanted plants. Do not chop up the weeds, as they will damage the roots of the shrubs and disturb the plants in their propagation. Instead, cut off a few pieces of various perennials and close the beds.

Video Board: 21 Plants That Bloom All Summer Long.

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