The Content Of The Article:
- 1. Remove autumn leaves from the lawn
- 2. Cut off lawn edges
- 3. New protective coating for wooden fences and pergolas
- 4. Natural winter protection for sensitive plants
- 5. Share, remove and repopulate perennials
- 6. This creates valuable foliage compost
- 7. Cut strong growing hedges
- 8th.Winterizing rosaries
- 9. Keep gravel paths clean
- 10. Eliminate sick and outdated trees
Everywhere in the garden is now fallen leaves around, shoots are bent over and fruit overripe. But where does it make sense to clean up, and where better to wait until the spring? What to cut off, what to leave? These are our answers to the most common questions about the autumn plaster in the garden.
1. Remove autumn leaves from the lawn
Lawn grasses still need a lot of light in autumn. If large amounts of leaves remain on the green carpet until spring, the covered areas turn yellow and die. Periodically rake the foliage and remove it from the lawn until no significant amounts are added. Especially comfortable you can collect the autumn leaves with a lawnmower with a catcher. It is shredded by the knife and mixed with nutrient-rich grass clippings - ideal conditions for a quick composting.
2. Cut off lawn edges
With an edge piercer you bring your lawn edge into shape again in autumn
Before the garden goes into hibernation, bring the lawn edges again with an edge piercer in shape. The devices have a flat metal blade with bevelled or rounded, sharp edge. Prick a small piece off the edge and then remove it with the spade from the bed. By the way: For straight edges you should use a long board as a template. Finally, use a narrow cultivator to remove the remaining root shoots.
3. New protective coating for wooden fences and pergolas
Wood weathers particularly badly in winter due to the effects of persistence, frost and strong temperature fluctuations. Treat your garden fence or pergola again with a protective glaze or oil. The wood must be dry and the minimum temperature for processing the product must not be undercut. In the case of glazes, cool temperatures are an advantage - it is sunny and very warm, they dry too fast and do not penetrate deeply enough into the wood fibers. Care oils, however, are often too thick at low temperatures.
4. Natural winter protection for sensitive plants
A ground cover of leaves is a good winter protection for perennials that are not reliably frost hardy
Perennials such as Montbretien (Crocosmia) or Gertra (Gaura) keep low temperatures surprisingly good, as long as the soil is not too moist. However, wet cold winters usually do not survive. For these species, a thick ground cover with foliage is the ideal winter protection. The leaves not only isolate the earth against the invading cold, but also act as a natural protection against too much moisture. The rainwater is drained from the inside to the outside like in a shingled roof and only seeps into the ground at the edge of the leaves.
5. Share, remove and repopulate perennials
Wasserdost, silver candle and Eisenhut are well suited for a autumnally designed perennial flowerbed
Perennial flowerbeds are very dynamic communities. Some species often become strong during the season, while short-lived ones gradually disappear. In the fall, the time has come to regulate: remove overly proliferating species and replace them with other suitable plants that are easier to control. Perennials that are no longer very vital and have subsided in their flowering, you should rejuvenate by division. It is best to cut off sick plants as early as autumn, instead of waiting until spring. It also makes sense to fill smaller gaps in the bed with flower bulbs.
6. This creates valuable foliage compost
The colorful autumn leaves of maple and other deciduous shrubs yield valuable humus when composted
If many deciduous trees grow in the garden, you need more containers besides the composter to process the leaves into humus. Cylindrical baskets made of rectangular wire mesh have proved their worth. One connects the beginning and end of a wire mesh track and places the container in a shady place. Fill in the fall leaves as needed and sprinkle layers of compost accelerator over them. Within a year, leaf compost is produced, which is well suited for soil improvement.
7. Cut strong growing hedges
Hedges of deciduous, winter hardy deciduous shrubs such as hornbeam, beech or field maple have since grown so good on good soils since the last cut in June that they look a bit neglected. These trees can now easily get in shape again at the end of the season. The advantage: The branches are only sparsely leafy and it is therefore not so much clippings. In addition, there is no longer any risk of hacking birds while breeding.
If the bed of roses has become very dense, you can cut back the shrubs easily in autumn
Densely planted rose beds often form an impenetrable branching up to autumn. In this case, first all new shoots are cut back by about one third. Then you should carefully remove the fallen leaves and twigs from the bed. The foliage is often infested with blackspot and there is a great risk that the fungal spores will re-infect the freshly-depleted leaves next year. The cleaned bed is then again thoroughly loosened with a cultivator or a rose fork and freed from weeds. Finally, pile the base of each rose with humus soil for winter protection and cover it with fir twigs.
9. Keep gravel paths clean
Even expertly laid out paths and seats with a layer of gravel or grit need some care in the fall. To ensure that they remain permanently free of weeds, not too much humus must be deposited between the stones: it stores a lot of moisture and therefore forms an ideal breeding ground for germinating weed seeds. Now in autumn remove all leaves and plant remains from the gravel areas. This is often tedious with a leaf broom - it's best in dry weather with a leaf blower.
10. Eliminate sick and outdated trees
Windbreak-prone spruces should be felled before the autumn storms begin
If your garden has an old, half-dead apple tree or a spruce that is prone to wind, now is the time to break away from the trees. If the tree does not cause much damage when dropped, you can grab the saw yourself - otherwise you should prefer to leave it to a professional. Often it makes sense to leave a trunk piece behind: You can, for example, stack it with a clematis or decorate it as a stand for a bird feeder.