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So that fruit trees do not feel constricted, you can, as here, create tree disks. Thus, the trees do not have to compete with grass and other plants for water and nutrients. Editor Dieke van Dieken also estimates that tree grates facilitate lawn care and protect the trunk from being injured by mowers or brush cutters. In this article we will show you step by step how to create a tree disk correctly.
Step by step: Create a tree pulley
The old paving stones (left) are first laid out at their later place (right)
Old cobblestones, which are still left over from the last gardening work, are perfectly suited as edging. Tip: It is best to mix different stone formats with each other, then the circle will be nice and round and the joints will stay tight so that the upcoming lawn can not grow into it. The stones are first laid out on the lawn at a distance of one meter. This is how you determine the shape and size of the tree disk and how much material you need in total. You can rely on your judgment. Of course, if you want perfect rounding, you can also set the radius precisely using a cord and a rule.
Now the outer edge is tapped (left) and then the sods are removed (right)
The spade is then pricked along the outer edge of the stone, only deep enough to cut through the turf. Remove the grass sods as flat as possible, so as not to unnecessarily injure the top of the tree.
The stones were previously placed (left) so that they are ready to hand when laying (right)
The stones are placed around the tree disc so that they do not stand in the way of digging, but are within reach and can be installed in the right order. The earth at the outer edge is compacted with a hand rammer. When laying one fills a three to five centimeters thick layer of sand under the stones and beats them with the rubber side of the paver on the lawn level. Alternatively, the concrete blocks can be brought up to the correct height with a pestle and squared timber. If you drive over the edge every week with a ride-on mower, you should additionally plan for a 10 to 15 centimeter thick layer of gravel. In our example, we do without this substructure because the load on our conventional lawnmower is low.
Remove weeds (left) and spread fertilizer (right)
Root weeds such as Wheatgrass, Greyhound and Acker-Winde, whose foothills are usually below the turf, are removed by a bucket and weed pestle. Otherwise, the persistent weeds would grow up through the mulch layer. Horn shavings (60 to 100 grams per square meter) compensate for the loss of nitrogen that results from the decomposition of bark mulch by soil organisms. After spreading, the organic fertilizer is carefully worked into the upper soil layer with a cultivator.
Spread bark mulch (left) and sweep sand into the joints (right)
Spread the mulch in a layer thickness of 8 to 10 centimeters. The material not only suppresses weed growth, it also keeps the underlying soil moist and protects it from flooding during heavy rains. Finally, with the hand brush fine sand is swept into the joints, so that the stones do not tilt and settle there no unwanted plants.