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If the apple tree does not bloom, of course, the harvest will be off. For hobby gardeners who have planted their own tree and attentively cared for, of course that is particularly annoying. But with the right knowledge of the possible causes and the appropriate countermeasures, can often be easily remedied. Even a small change in the fertilizer, the blend or the design of the tree slice can help the apple tree to bloom again or increase the harvest.
Alternate and sortThe term alternance describes the alternation of high-yield and low-yield years, which is also evident in some apple varieties. A year with less or no flowers in these cases is not worrisome and does not indicate any care mistakes, but is normal.
Frequently affected are the varieties:
- Noble of Leipzig
fruitIf the apple tree bears many fruits, it is likely that it will have few flowers next year. For varieties that do not form the buds for the next year directly after flowering, it helps to lose some fruit early.
late frostIf it comes to a late frost in the spring or early summer, the already open flowers freeze. Of course, the temperature can not change much, but it is possible to provide the apple tree with a slight frost protection. For this purpose, a 3-percent valerian solution is injected in the morning and afternoon, whereby the leaves should not be wetted. The measure is intended to mitigate the effects of night frost of up to -3° C and protect the flowers. A sheltered location or a garden fleece can also represent a certain frost protection.
BaumscheibeGrow on the tree disc Lawn or other growths, it is possible that they compete with the apple tree for nutrients and this then lacks the energy for the formation of flowers. It is therefore advisable to keep the tree disc free. If there are plants on it which are to be removed, however, care must be taken. Since the apple tree is a Flachwurzler, the roots could be damaged and thus also impaired in the intake of nutrients.
fertilizationIn terms of fertilization, the apple tree is less. A strong nutrient supply, especially with regard to nitrogen, stimulates the apple tree to grow - but drive more shoots and leaves. For flowers there is hardly any power left. Potassium and phosphorus fertilizers provide a remedy. An altogether restrained supply of nutrients, which takes place only from the second year, also prevents the failure of flowering by an excess of nitrogen. Also suitable is mature compost, of which only a few liters are added to the tree-pulley and easily incorporated into the surface. One gift a year is enough.
Tip: A slight depression around the tree disc helps direct the water into the root area. This makes casting more efficient. Covering the tree disc with bark mulch or stones also reduces evaporation, keeping the soil moist for longer.
blendIf the apple tree is blended too radically, too little or at the wrong time, this can have a detrimental effect on the formation of the flowers. It should be noted when cutting especially that the crown should be lighted. This allows light and air to penetrate, which is conducive to the growth of leaves, buds and fruits.
Cuts are therefore shoots that:
- to cross each other
- to grow inside
- grow parallel to the main trunk
- No or hardly any buds
OlderWhen an apple tree gets old, the size and number of fruits usually decreases first. The flower is usually reduced as well. With a rejuvenation cut, which selectively removes disturbing shoots and the crown is illuminated, budding and yield can be increased again. There is no need to be tentative with the blend to rejuvenate the apple tree. However, cuts greater than the size of a one-euro coin should be treated with a specialized wound closure.
Tip: Large branches should be cut down to one-third from the bottom and only sawn off from above. This prevents tearing of the bark.
- harms the apple tree in the long term
- the risk of breakage increased
- the risk for diseases is increased
1. A rubber band, a strip of foam or sheet metal are placed around the trunk.
2. A thin wire is placed on this pad and pulled as tight as possible or the ends screwed.
3. In the spring, around March, when appropriate, the fruit belt should lead to the formation of many flowers in the season for the next year and in this case can be taken in the fall. If the increased flowering does not occur, the fruit belt will remain on the trunk until the next summer and will only then be removed.
pollinationNot in any case, the harvest remains, because no flowers are present or have taken this damage. It is quite possible that they will not be fertilized. Other apple trees in the immediate vicinity provide a remedy. Alternatively, two- to four-species apple trees can be selected, which contain noble shoots of different apple tree species and so can pollinate each other.
If the apple tree does not bloom, good advice is neither expensive nor associated with much effort. Anyone who gets to the bottom of the cause and adjusts the care accordingly can usually fix the problem quite easily. Only a little patience is needed, until the tree could recover and form new flowers.