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The apple is the undisputed number one in the popularity scale of domestic fruits and many hobby gardeners plant an apple tree in their own garden. And for a good reason: There is hardly any kind of fruit here that brings such a rich harvest and is uncomplicated to care for. For the home garden small tree forms are best. They are particularly easy to care for and to harvest. The best planting time for root-bare, so delivered without soil balls apple trees is from late October to late March.
In our example we have planted the apple variety 'Gerlinde'. It is relatively resistant to diseases. Good pollinators are Rubinette and James Grieve. Half-stems such as the apple tree planted here are grafted on medium-growing substrates such as "MM106" or "M4" and reach about four meters in height.
Step by step: Plant a root-bare apple tree
Dip the bare root system for several hours (left) and lift the planting hole (right)
Before planting, you should put the bare roots in the water for a few hours. Thus, the fine roots can recover from transport in the air and absorb a lot of water in a short time. Then lift a planting hole with the spade into which the roots fit without kinking. So that the roots have enough space, the planting pit should have a good 60 centimeters in diameter and be 40 centimeters deep. For heavy, compacted loamy soil, you should additionally loosen the sole with deep punctures with a grave fork.
Cut the main roots fresh with pruning shears (left) and fit the tree into the planting hole (right)
The main roots are now cut fresh with the secateurs. Also, remove any damaged and bent batches. Then the tree is fitted into the planting hole. The spade lying flat over the plant pit helps to estimate the correct planting depth. The junctions of the upper main roots should be close to the soil surface, the finishing point - recognizable by the "kink" in the trunk - at least a hand's breadth above.
Remove the tree once more and strike the plant pole (left). Then the tree can be re-used and the planting hole filled with soil (right)
Now take the tree out of the planting hole and hammer in a planting stake west of the trunk up to the crown level. The planting hole is closed again after the re-insertion of the apple tree with the excavation.
Then the earth is gently treaded around the tree (left) and the apple tree tied to the stake (right)
The loose soil should be carefully compacted after filling with the foot. Now secure the tree at crown height with a coconut rope on the trunk. To do this, loosely put the rope three to four times around the trunk and stake and wrap the resulting "eight" several times. Tie the rope to the pile to protect the bark. Finally, secure the rope on the outside of the pile with a staple. This prevents the knot from loosening and the coconut knot sliding downwards. This node should be checked from time to time.
With a so-called planting the apple tree is brought into shape (left) and then poured well (right)
When planting cut the tip and all side shoots to a maximum of half. Steep side branches are completely removed or placed in a flatter position with coconut knit, so that they do not compete with the center drive. Finally, it is thoroughly poured. A small pouring rim of earth around the trunk prevents the water from running off to the side.
Because small-sized trees develop a weaker root system, good water and nutrient supply is important for crop success. That's why, especially in the first few years after planting, you should generously distribute compost on the tree-pulley and frequently water during dry periods.
A stem protection cuff protects the young apple tree from venison
To prevent game damage
In rural areas, wild rabbits like to nibble the nutritious bark of young apple trees in winter when they are short of food. In the spring, roebucks scrape off the bast layer of their new horns on young trees - with this so-called sweeping they can also severely damage the bark. If in doubt, apply a stem protection cuff when planting to avoid nasty surprises.