Herbstaster, Winteraster - Tips for Nursing, Cutting and Propagation


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Alps aster

What is that, an autumn chest, winteraster or even a chrysanthemum? A small conceptual explanation for more clarity in advance: the Winteraster belongs to the daisy family (Asteraceae). Botanically they are described as Dendranthema x grandiflorum or Chrysanthemum indicum hybrids. The Winteraster has moved from East Asia into our gardens. Other names are garden chrysanthemum, Bauernchrysantheme or even Herbstaster. The latter, however, belongs strictly speaking to the genus Aster sp., Which have their origin in North America.

Location and ground

Winter asters are an asset to any perennial flowerbed. When most bloomers already form their seeds and dry up, they run to their peak. Some varieties bloom into December. When selecting the location, however, it must be noted that they get enough sun or at least brightness in the shorter days. In winter, constantly wet ground areas are unsuitable for the winter asters. They also look good in pots. The sunnier the location, the greater the bloom. The soil should be loose and nutritious. Compacted soil should be thoroughly loosened and mixed with sand before insertion. A thorough mixing with compost ensures sustained enough nutrients. Soils that tend to store a lot of moisture in winter are unfavorable. It comes to decay, especially in the places of new shoots.

Pouring and fertilizing

Especially in summer, the water needs of the winter asters is quite high. On the other hand, they do not appreciate splashing water from above. In pots they should therefore be best poured from below or dipped. Constant wetness on their leaves leads to increased susceptibility to mildew. In the bed, the chrysanthemums are best poured vigorously from below. A constant sprinkling with water through a o. Ä. is therefore to be avoided. From the watering in the summer then also the flowering in late summer and autumn depends. Basically, the asters in the pot need more regular watering than the outgrown specimens in the field. During the rest period in winter, the Winteraster needs only enough water that its root ball does not completely dry out. The winter asters love it rich in nutrients. Once a year, before flowering in summer or twice a year, in spring and autumn, stored manure or compost is placed on the bed. This is how strong, healthy clumps develop. Instead, an inorganic fertilizer for flowering plants, with a higher phosphorus content, can be applied as directed.
Tip: If the leaves and flowers become slightly flabby, they must be poured as soon as possible. However, you should not let it come too often up to these signs, neither in the pot nor in the field. Excessive dehydration has a negative effect on flowering.

To cut

During flowering, regular blooming of withered flowers provides many new blooms. After flowering, you can cut back the Winteraster close to the ground. If the cut is made in the spring, the leaves are better protected against frost. The spring section is therefore especially recommended for young specimens and frost-sensitive varieties. In spring you can trim the new shoots to promote a denser branching.

overwinter

Alps aster

Winter hardy chrysanthemums in the pot are placed in a sheltered location and possibly wrapped with a fleece. In the bed most varieties need no great winter protection. Young plants and more sensitive varieties can be covered with leaves or brushwood. The degree of hardiness is quite different from species to species. Depending on the region and location, the chrysanthemums can not survive even a winter, although the retailer has touted him as hardy. Due to the low selling price of most varieties, the bald spots can then be replaced by new plantlets in the spring.

multiply

As a rule, they can easily multiply all types of winter or autumn burrows:
  • by division
Every three years you should divide the traffic jams. The best time for it is the spring. If this Auslichtung does not take place, the flower heads with the years smaller and smaller. For the division, the plant is carefully digged out and shares the root ball with a sharp knife. The parts are then reinstated at the desired locations.
  • through cuttings
In the spring up to 10 cm long shoot tips are cut off and put into a mixture of earth and sand. This should now be kept moist at temperatures around 18° C. After rooting, young shoots cut more often to encourage multiple branching.
Tip: If you want to propagate your winter palms with cuttings in the spring, do not cut them off near the ground after flowering.From the lateral buds form the shoots, which are best suited for the cuttings in the spring.
  • by sowing
In early spring, you can give the aster seeds directly to the bed. Throughout the year, the seeds of the winter asters can be grown in small pots with potting soil in the greenhouse or conservatory (at 18° C - 20° C).

plants

Mostly you get to buy the winter chrysanthemums as container plants. They can then be set outdoors in any season. However, the best time is always spring. By the next winter, the plant will have time enough to root properly. Even for the asters in the pot is the best time to repot the spring.

Diseases and pests

Alps aster

Very good news in advance, snails do not like chrysanthemums and asters. In general, the susceptibility to pests is limited. Spider mites occur when the winteraster in the pot is too dark and warm in their winter quarters. When there is a lot of moisture from above, gray mold and mildew can occur in both pot and outdoor crops. In this case, the affected shoots must be removed. A tea extract from field horsetail is, in addition to the right location and proper care, a good precautionary measure. Another fungal disease is the asterwort wilt. If immediate watering does not improve on drooping leaves, it is most likely aster's wilt. In contrast, there is a special pesticide in the specialized trade.

species

The multi-year autumn chrysanthemums (winter blacks) can be bought in specialist shops in small pots. They look rather inconspicuous in contrast to the annual, spherical, lush flowering Bauernchrysanthemen. But in the field, they also run very fast to the top and develop a vigorous flowering. The bloom of the autumn raster (alias Winteraster, Bauernchrysantheme) usually begins only after the bloom of the actual autumn raster (Aster sp.). Especially beautiful and robust varieties:
The plants from the group of Indicum hybrids usually form filled flowers with a spicy chrysanthemum fragrance:
  • 'November sun' yellow flowering
  • 'Vreneli' blossoming coppery red
The varieties of Koreanum hybrids are particularly hardy:
  • 'Isabellarosa' simple flowers, beigerosa
  • 'Linnocence' pink flowers
The Rubellum hybrids have a strikingly cut foliage are very vigorous and hardy:
  • 'Duchess of Edinburgh' red blooming
  • 'Clara Curtis' pink-purple flowering
Another hunt group are the Hortorum hybrids:
  • 'Schwalbenstolz' flowers dark brown
  • 'White Bouquet' filled flowers, white
Conclusion
With only a few care measures in terms of water, fertilizer and cut, the hardy varieties of the Winteraster (chrysanthemum) and autumn burrows ensure a good mood in the autumnal bed. As cut flowers, they stay in the vase for a long time. Many insects and butterflies also enjoy the late flowers in the autumn sun.

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