The Content Of The Article:
- Fruits without maggots
- Planting autumn raspberries
- Planting time and soil preparation
- Beware of offshoots!
- Plant raspberries - that's how it works
- Berries stand trellis
- Cut raspberry ribs after harvest
- How many harvests are possible?
- The main varieties
Autumn raspberries are special raspberry varieties that bear fruit not only on the so-called one-year-old wood, but also on the new rods, which are expelled in the same year. This phenomenon is comparable to the modern, often flowering roses, which also form flowers on the annual as well as the new shoots and therefore flow through almost non-stop from June to autumn.
Fruits without maggots
The relatively late fruit ripening of the autumn raspberries has a great advantage: Unlike the classic summer raspberries, the flowers on the new wood are not attacked by the raspberry beetle. The beetle, only four to five millimeters in size, lays its eggs in the flowers of raspberries and its maggots feed on the flesh of the fruit. When the first autumn raspberries bloom in mid-July, the raspberry beetle has completed its family planning and the flowers remain undisturbed.
Planting autumn raspberries
Like all raspberries, the autumn varieties need a deep, humus rich soil with a pH between 5 and 6.5 and good ventilation. Soil compaction and the resulting waterlogging do not tolerate raspberries at all - root and root diseases are usually not long in coming.
Planting time and soil preparation
The early autumn from October is the ideal planting time for all raspberries. Plant your autumn raspberries only on areas where no raspberries have previously stood, otherwise soil fatigue will easily develop. Prepare the soil thoroughly by deep loosening and work a 1: 1 mixture of mature garden compost and bark compost, especially on loamy soils. In order to prevent waterlogging as well as possible, it has also proven to put the raspberries on a 20-centimeter high hillside.
Plant raspberries best in a small hillock with humus-rich soil. This reduces the susceptibility to root diseases
Beware of offshoots!
Many hobby gardeners get their raspberry young plants as an offshoot of friends or neighbors. Neighborly help is well meant, but in most cases a disservice: offshoots of old raspberry plants are almost always infected with various viruses and fungi. If you are already taking the trouble to create a new raspberry bed, you should therefore prefer to buy disease-free and varietal seedlings.
Plant raspberries - that's how it works
Raspberries are spreading climmers and therefore need a climbing aid like blackberries. For autumn raspberries, a simple trellis made of wooden posts with three tension wires is enough. The tension wires should be mounted at about 40, 80 and 120 centimeters high. In order to tame the root foothills of the plants, it makes sense to surround the about one meter wide bedding around with a 25 centimeters wide strip of pond liner. Alternatively, you can also put an edge out of lawn ridges. These are 100 x 25 x 6 centimeter concrete edge stones. If you want to plant several rows of raspberries, you should plan about 50 centimeters wide paths between the beds, so that the total distance between the plant rows is about 150 centimeters.
Berries stand trellis
When planting, make sure that the plants are easily accessible around the crop
The autumn raspberries are placed in the planting holes with pot bales or bare root with 50 centimeters planting distance along the trellis framework. Rootless young plants should be watered thoroughly in a bucket of water and not allowed to dry out during the planting process. After planting, mulch the entire bedding area with a mixture of dried grass clippings and autumn leaves to protect the soil from waterlogging and dehydration.
Cut raspberry ribs after harvest
The cut of autumn raspberries is very easy, because all rods are cut off immediately after harvest in November or in late winter at ground level. Tip: Leave two trimmed rods in the bed per meter, as predatory mites and other beneficial insects nest there. They move to the new shoots in the spring and keep next year pests such as spider mites in check. Also cut off sick or very weak shoots at ground level in spring and summer. Varieties such as "Autumn Bliss" form very many new rods and should be thinned out continuously, so that a maximum of 15 strong shoots are left per running meter.
The raspberries of autumn raspberries are cut off immediately after harvest or in early spring at ground level
How many harvests are possible?
In principle, it is also possible to harvest the twigs of autumn raspberries twice - once in autumn and once in the following summer. In this case, you must of course leave the harvested rods and cut after the early summer harvest. For the summer harvest, however, it is advisable to grow once-bearing summer varieties, because they are more productive and their fruit quality is still slightly higher. In addition, the summer yield of autumn raspberries is at the expense of the late harvest.
The main varieties
Most of the autumn raspberries available in Europe were bred in Switzerland. There, several farms are working intensively to cross the intense taste and the fruit size of the summer raspberries into the autumn varieties.
The oldest and most prevalent autumn raspberry to date is the variety 'Autumn Bliss', which is often offered under the name 'Blissy'. It is very robust and produces relatively large fruits, which quickly become dark and soft after harvesting. The yields are relatively high, but the variety is somewhat susceptible to spider mite infestation.
'Himbo Top' was created from a cross between 'Autumn Bliss' and 'Himbo Queen'. It produces larger fruits than 'Autumn Bliss' and matures about two weeks later. The fruits are relatively large and bright, also quite firm. It has a very balanced taste, but like all autumn raspberries does not quite reach the aroma of good summer varieties.
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Autumn raspberry "Blissy"
Autumn raspberry "Himbo Top"
Autumn raspberry "Aroma Queen"
Autumn raspberry "autumn gold"
'Sugana' also forms relatively large, firm fruits with a uniform structure. It ripens late and tastes comparatively bland. Nevertheless, it is the most widely used autumn raspberry in commercial fruit growing.
'Aroma Queen' produces similarly sized, firm fruits as 'Himbo Top', but is more susceptible to root diseases such as Phytophthora wilt. In terms of taste, it is still one of the best autumn raspberries.
'Herbstgold' is an orange-red, healthy strain with a pronounced raspberry aroma. The fruits are quite small and are especially suitable for fresh consumption, as they can not be stored for long.