Autumn raspberries - varieties, care and cutting


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The autumn raspberry belongs to the family Rosaceae (lat. Rosaceae) and reaches a stature height between 1.20 m and 1.50 m. It also differs from the summer raspberry in the time of sowing and health. In addition, the autumn raspberry can also be kept on the balcony.
Among hobby gardeners, the autumn raspberry enjoys growing popularity. Simple care and the fact that these plants are not attacked by maggots, make the shrub fruit suitable for beginners. The raspberries to be sown from early autumn bear their fruits not only on the long-standing, one-year-old woods, but also on new shoots. There are seven outstanding varieties, which are distinguished, for example, by their aromatic taste and the firmness of the berries. The differences between autumn raspberry and conventional raspberry are serious.
Seven varieties
If you are interested in sowing autumn raspberries, you can choose from different designs, which are recognizable as follows:

  • The "Aroma Queen" lives up to its name. This strain originating from Dresden is still new and impresses with its pleasant aroma.
  • Particularly productive is the "Sugana", because it is able to drive out two harvests. In addition, it can be kept both in the garden and on the balcony and terrace.
  • The "Goldkind" is one of the best-known autumn-bearing plants. It tastes sweet and not too strong.
  • The "Autumn Bliss" is also tasty. Their special characteristic is the resistance.
  • Known for their exquisite taste is the "Himbotop". Their country of origin is Switzerland.
  • Predominantly on loose ground grows the "Polka". Once it bears fruit, they are firm and robust.
  • Good at the outward appearance is "Pokussa". The autumn raspberry grows tall and carries big pearls.
Sowing time and location
The raspberry is planted in early autumn from October. It is important not to put the plant in a place where there were already berries, because there is a so-called soil fatigue and yields go back. Generally one can say that the raspberry does not make high demands on the breeding ground, which does not mean that they have no claims. The soil should not be too firm. If the soil is loamy, enrichment with compost is recommended. Ideally, the site has a pH of 5.5 - so slightly acidic. For the planting of the autumn raspberry one chooses a place as sunny as possible. This is not only essential for the supply of light, but also for the prevention of waterlogging. An accumulation of wetness can also prevent, if one creates a Hügelbeet (height about 20 centimeters). The roots of raspberry do not go deep into the ground; they are flat-rooters. If possible, you should provide for a shading of the soil at this point, then the yield is higher. There are no special buildings necessary. Straw and bark mulch are enough to provide enough shade. Incidentally, for a healthy growth no trellis (growth support) is necessary. The grid can lie on the ground. The facts about the location summarized:
  • Growing on loose soil (enriching loamy soil with compost and mulch)
  • ideally pH of 5.5
  • sunny location
  • advantageous is a hillside
  • possible shading by straw and bark mulch for more yields
Tip: An autumn raspberry should not be fertilized. This leads to rapid growth of the fruits and resulting rotting.
To cut
The cut of the autumn raspberry is easier to carry out than with the summer-bearing representatives. The reason for this is the fruit farm on this year's rods. This means that all shoots are cut completely and to the ground. The following year, new rods grow out.
multiply
If you grow your own plants, you can benefit from a possible harvest in the autumn raspberry already in the first season. The spade is used to separate well-grown and strong root shoots. With the help of a sharp secateurs, the plants are separated into parts of about 10 cm each. Important is the attention to adjacent fine roots. These must not be removed in any case, as these serve as a water and nutrient supplier and are the physiological most working part. The selected stand should have sufficient humus. Place the foothills 10 cm deep in the ground. The distance between each set is between 20 and 30 cm. With moist soil, you cover the insertion hole. To protect the autumn raspberries from freezing, cover them with a thick layer of gauze. For optimum outgrowth, keep the soil evenly moist. Soon new shoots will grow. This is shortened to 10 cm. This creates a healthy basis for the outgrowth of young shoots. With a little luck you can reap the first fruits this season, as autumn raspberries are always driven by the new excesses.For a better understanding - here is the short description for the multiplication:
  • Divide up strong roots
  • cut with sharp pruner to 10 cm; Do not remove the fine root
  • Enrich the site with humus
  • Set foothills at a depth of 10 cm; Distance between plants is 20 to 30 centimeters
  • Cover the excavation with moist soil
  • Cover streaks with a thick layer of mulch to prevent frostbite
  • Evenly moisten the floor
  • Shorten new shoots to 10 cm
Tip: Every meter you should leave one to two severed rods. On top of this, beneficial insects settle down, migrating to new outbreaks and combating pests in the coming season.
Differences between summer and autumn carriers
The stature height is one of the distinguishing features between summer raspberries and autumn raspberries. Autumn-bearing plants grow to a height of 1.50 meters, while the summer raspberry creates one more meter. Therefore, a trellis is helpful. The autumn variant is satisfied with a horizontal grid. In addition, the summer berries can only be planted in the garden. The second variety, however, is suitable for stocking on the balcony, terrace and in the garden. The summer raspberry bears fruits only on the two-year shoot, the strawberry bears on annual and new rods. A big difference between the two types makes the care. The shoots of the crop-bearing plants are cut as soon as the harvest is over. Young bushes persist. Autumn raspberries are completely cut to the ground after harvesting. In addition, they are less prone to diseases and do not take over previous rod infestations. Maggots and beetles do not bother with the fruits due to the autumn shoots from August to October. The summer raspberries that bear in July are more susceptible to diseases and insects.
Frequently asked questions
  • How often can you harvest? - It is possible to reap a second time in the summer. The shoots must stop after the first harvest. Unfortunately, the yields in summer are lower, which is why the cultivation of summer raspberries is recommended.
  • Why does not the berry grow? - The most common reason is the wrong location. The soil is either too moist or contains phytophthora, a harmful egg mushroom. The root ball may not have been sufficiently torn apart.
Worth knowing about autumn raspberries soon
plants
  • Raspberry plants need a sunny spot in the garden, so that the raspberries mature well and become sweet.
  • They can be planted all year round and need a distance of about 30 cm.
  • If several rows are to be set at the same time, a distance of two to three meters must be kept between the rows, so that all plants get enough light later.
  • The soil in which the plants are placed should be enriched with compost before planting and be well loosened, because waterlogging tolerate raspberries only badly.
  • Then the plants are placed so deep in the ground, that they are 2 to 3 cm covered with soil.
Already when planting a trellis is set up, where the long rods are later passed along. For this purpose, simple wires that are stretched at a distance of 40 cm between long wooden posts, perfectly adequate. Raspberries can grow excessively through their roots and spread to other areas of the garden. If this is to be prevented, a root barrier made of a simple plastic film is laid directly around the pot bales when planting, which can not be penetrated by the roots. These films are sold commercially under the name rhizome barrier.
maintenance
  • Raspberry plants, whose shoots grow too dense, should be lightly lightened during the summer, so that the raspberries can ripen well even in not so sunny weather.
  • Some berry fertilizer ensures good growth and a rich harvest, but the plants usually only need additional water in longer dry periods.
  • Especially in the first year care should be taken to remove weeds between the plants and the rows; Alternatively, however, a mulch layer can also be applied or lawns sown to make work a little easier.
  • Depending on the weather, the harvest starts in autumn raspberries in July or August and can last until autumn.
To cut
  • Autumn raspberries always produce their fruit on this year's shoots, so all shoots can be cut radically down to the ground after harvesting.
  • From the rhizome, the plants will drive out again next year. If this time is missed, it can be rescheduled in February of the following year.
Diseases
Autumn raspberries are very popular despite their late harvest season because they are not attacked by the raspberry beetles, whose larvae make the raspberries inedible. Their flowers form only in July and are therefore no longer eligible for the oviposition of the raspberry beetle. For this reason, they are often offered in specialty stores under the name of non-ferrous raspberries.
  • However, like the summer raspberries, the autumn raspberries easily get root diseases, which occur the more frequently the denser the soil is.
  • For particularly heavy and dense soils, it is therefore advisable to create a small dam for the plants, so that the rainwater can quickly seep away. A difference in height of 20 cm between the garden floor and the surface of the dam is completely sufficient for this purpose.

Video Board: RASPBERRIES - HOW TO TRAIN AND PRUNE.

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