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The best education cut and the best correction of the "root shoot ratio" (ratio of root to shoots and leaves) succeed the gardener with decades of experience. Because this is so, the young plants in mass trade already have plant cut and education cut behind and can be planted as they are. Normally, you will not get any roses that grow on your own roots anyway, but rather grafted varieties based on robust wild rose rootstocks. Those who develop a special root-shoot-ratio and as a high strain not according to plant prescription, but according to traders are given preference (what the half, quarter, three-quarter and what else is offered everything is explained).
If you buy bare root roses that do not come freshly harvested into the ground, a delicate plant cut is recommended, even if the main thing has already been done by the dealer. It's all about removing dried root ends so the roots can absorb water and nutrients. When you buy from a retailer, they usually tell you exactly which cuts the rose needs now and in the future.
The basic sectionOnce the rose has been planted and has settled in your garden, it is "pruned" once a year. This basic cut of a bed rose is not very complicated, the following points must be considered:
- The scaffolding-bearing branches forming the educational section indicate the direction
- These guidelines are followed
- All new side shoots are cropped all around to the desired extent
- In addition, dead, obliquely growing, rotten, broken wood is removed
- That can happen over the whole season
The best time for the basic cutWhen a bed of roses is best cut depends on when and how often their flowers appear. Since the influences of all sorts of ancestors are noticeable in the case of bed roses, there are some variants in flowering:
- There are beet roses that bloom only once a year - more or less long
- These bed roses are pruned after flowering
- If the rose is to remain as it is, all fresh side shoots are cut down to a few eyes
- If the rose is to grow in height, stay a few more eyes
- If the rose is already too high, almost the entire renewal is cut away
- Here, old wood has to gradually soften, so that new construction from below takes place
- This rejuvenation cut is scheduled in the spring before budding
- Depending on the constitution of the rose can be spread over 2 years (strong summer cut weakens the plant)
- If a rose flowers continuously or repeatedly, it gets its basic cut in the spring
- In most German regions the best time is at the end of February / March
- In very cold regions, shears are only used at the end of March / April
- It is cut when the heavy frosts are over and the roses just start to sprout
- Weak and old shoots are completely removed, sick shoots later in the season
- The more roses are cut back in the rest period, the more the shoot is encouraged
- Carefully cut back strong-growing varieties at this time
- Slowly growing varieties motivate through vigorous pruning
- If a rose grows too dense inside, it is also thinned out in the basic cut
- The overall structure of the stick should be designed to be air permeable inside
- If the cane carries wood, which hardly flowers after two or three years, it must be rejuvenated
- For this, the lazy old shoots are cut out of the stick, from below
- If wild shoots emerge from the pad, they are treated as described below for tall stem roses
Tip: If your bed rose is blooming for a long time and you do not have flower sales information, you may want to know how the flower of this variety is described in the product information. You can find out about the name of the cultivar on the Internet; the typical keywords have the following meaning: "perennial" means that a rose has been pulled to constantly push buds. "Blossoming" roses bloom in bursts and then take a break, "remontierend" beet roses are called with a strong main flower and (small, isolated) Nachblüte (which may be at non-optimal locations but also completely out). Incidentally, bed roses should not always stick to what is stated in the sales description.
Beetrosenschnitt in detail"Once-flowering, perennial, frequent flowering, remodeling" affects the flowering and vigor of the rose bush and thus also the intensity of the cut.
If your bed rose poses like flowers only once a year, it will not be much pruning in the early years. Even later, such bedding roses do not necessarily have to be trimmed every year. Although you must also cut these bed roses regularly, so that the flowering power is maintained.But you can only make a few branches each year, every second to third season you should then have caught every branch of the rose.
Multi-flowering and perennial bed roses, which are cut back in the spring, need a more vigorous cropping, every year. If you do not give them this cut, the rosebushes tend to fall apart and the flower will fade. Usually about two-thirds of the total height is taken away with the cut. But there are slower growing bed roses, where this is not necessary, and at their obviously optimal locations already almost proliferating bed roses, which are more likely to cut back a little more and in the fall maybe something again.
In the once flowering, the withered flowers can be cut away with the basic cut. If a remontante was among the ancestors, then maybe there will be a post-bloom. If you want to see quite a lot of flowers, cutting away the flowers that are blooming in the flowering plants is often part of the program. If you prevent roses from forming seeds (producing offspring) by cutting off the flowers, they will always develop a second flower if it belongs to their genetic program and the time until winter makes that possible.
Tip: You can leave the last flowering of a bed rose during the current season and ripen to rosehips. The ripe fruits from mid-September should be harvested immediately when they reach maturity, if they are to be further processed into mus and / or jam. If the rosehips are to be eaten raw, you should wait patiently until the first frost has passed over the plants. Due to the frost, the rosehips become softer and sweeter, in this condition they can be harvested until February. The fruit stalk remains as winter protection on the plant, its remains are taken away when the rose gets its basic cut.
Cut tall stem rosesThe self-grown or fully formed purchased high-strain is basically cut as described above. Only in the form of course a little different, the crown of the Hochstamms is usually rather roundish grow.
Here you only have to make sure (also during the season) that you consistently remove all side shoots of the usually finished tree trunks that appear below the finishing point or also in the upper area. If you remove a wild shoot too late, the added finish may clot a few nutrients. If you let many wild shoots grow easily, it can happen that your very special breed of cultivar completely regresses to the wild form.
Wild shoots should not be cut off, which only promotes an increased wild shootout. Rather, they should be better demolished, if possible to below the refining point in the earth.