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With a little skill and creativity, an appealing bedding border made of wood can make visually appealing. However, wood is a material that begins to weather after a short time in damp soil. Insofar as one decides on a wooden bed frame, it should be ensured that appropriately weather-resistant or specially impregnated with preservative wood is used. The protective agents used should be absolutely free from pollutants and environmentally friendly.
A good bed border not only looks beautiful, it also prevents the grass, weeds or the plants themselves from expanding unhindered. Beeteinfassungen made of wood look very natural and fit into almost every garden, no matter whether farm garden or modern plant. The wooden bed frame does not necessarily have to follow a straight line; round or curved lines, which can be built well with pegs embedded vertically in the floor, also look appealing. Depending on which type of wood is used, it is necessary to protect it from the weather - especially moisture.
- weather-resistant types of wood: Douglas fir, robinia, oak, larch
- pressure-impregnated woods: spruce (very light and relatively cheap)
- Paint untreated wood even with glaze or paint
Depending on the taste and the conditions in your own garden, a variety of design options can be used for a wooden bed frame. Very close to nature, for example, look thick logs or branches, which can be simply placed as a border on the bed. Other bedding borders are made of thick pieces of wood with a round or rectangular cross-section, which are usually struck vertically or embedded in the ground.
- Palisades (Roundwoods)
- Wooden boards, low fences
- Rollboarder (Rollboard, Rollpalisade, lawn edge)
- round logs
Rollboarders are called bedding edges or lawn edges, in which the individual (wood) elements are connected with wire. This makes setting very easy and also rounding is possible. Rollboarders made of wood usually have a height of 30 and a length of about 190 centimeters. If shorter pieces are needed, the wire can be easily cut with pliers.
- Step: Mark course - By means of a line or fine sand the later course of the bed enclosure is marked.
- Step: dig digging - With the spade you lift a ditch about 20 centimeters deep. The ditch does not have to be very wide, a slightly wider slit is sufficient.
- Step: Adjusting and inserting the rollboard - The rollboard must first be cut to the appropriate width by cutting the wires with a pair of pliers. Then put it in the slot out. To ensure good stability, the rollboard should be sunk into the ground until about the second wire enclosure. If necessary, use a rubber mallet to drive something in order to align the upper edge evenly (spirit level). Tip: If you do not have a rubber mallet, you should place a wooden board so that the surface of the wood is not damaged by the metal head of the hammer.
- Step: Fill up - First fill the slit with fine gravel and spread the excavated soil on the gravel. Lock tight.
For the optical separation of beds or lawn edges, so-called minipalisads are also suitable. Palisades with sharpened ends are recommended for a quick and uncomplicated insertion. To build a border of minipalisades you only need the palisades, a spade and a rubber mallet and a guideline. As an alternative to the rubber hammer, a normal hammer can be used if a wooden board is placed under the hammer.
- Step: Define history - The best way to set the course of the bed border is with a taut string. In order for the palisades to later form an exact escape, a narrow gutter should be dug with the help of a spade.
- Step: Take in the stockade - The palisades must now be aligned exactly. For this purpose, for example, a bar nailed to two or three round logs. Hammer the palisades into the ground to the desired depth.
With the help of roundwoods, so-called palisades, a bedding edging can be perfectly constructed by yourself. Anyone using differently sized stockades can thus achieve a very individual design. In addition, palisades can also be used for beds in hillside or stepped gardens.
- Palisades / roundwood (available in different lengths and diameters)
- Note that about one third of the wood is buried in the ground
- Gravel or grit
- Spade (possibly shovel)
- Wall cord and wooden sticks
- spirit level
- Rubber mallet (alternatively hammer and wooden board)
On level ground, a palisade looks like a fence that encases the bed and divides the garden into areas. If the soil provides sufficient stability and the stockade is not very high, it can be worked without a concrete foundation.
- Step: Dig trench - First, the later course of the bed border should be marked with the help of the sticks and the guideline around. Along the guideline a ditch is dug, which corresponds in depth to about one third of the palisade length. There are also 20 centimeters for the drainage.
- Step: Apply Drainage - A thick layer of gravel or grit is poured into the trench (about 20 cm). This causes water to drain away and the wood does not rot.
- Step: Set Palisades - The logs are now placed next to each other in the trench and aligned with the help of the guideline in the height and escape. To ensure that relatively long palisades do not shift, they should be fixed with a nailed-up straightedge (towards the center of the bed).
- Step: Fastening - When short logs have been used, the trench can easily be filled with grit and garden soil. By lightly starting the soil is compacted, so it does not come later to underwater. Of course, before complete refilling, it is necessary to carefully remove the leveling plate.
In case of different terrain, very sandy soil or high palisades, the logs should be poured into concrete. In addition, on the elevated side of a barrier by roofing felt or foil necessary so that the moisture is kept away from the wood and does not trickle through the soil.
- Garden concrete (concrete, sand, water)
- Foil or roofing felt
- Bucket, bucket or wheelbarrow for mixing the concrete
After the course has been determined by a guideline, now a ditch must be excavated, which corresponds in depth to about one third of the palisade length, plus an additional 20 centimeters.
Step 2: Concrete wood
There are two different ways of setting wood in concrete:
- Longer palisades can be laterally stabilized by concrete. Here, an approximately 20 cm thick layer of gravel is first filled into the drainage and the round timbers are inserted and aligned. To stabilize, place a trowel concrete in front of and behind the palisade and let it flatten sideways downwards.
- Only fill in a thin drainage layer of gravel (5 cm). Then add about 10 cm high garden concrete and put the woods (not all the way down) and align. If all the wood is in the concrete, a layer of concrete is refilled from the right and left (about 10 cm). To do this, alternately fill a trowel in front of and behind the timbers, so that they are not displaced when filling one-sidedly. This variant is recommended for strong slopes.
The concrete now has to harden for several days (better one week). Then it can be filled with a gravel layer and soil.
If you want to build a wooden bed frame yourself, you should make sure that you use weather-resistant wood or even paint it with protective paint before installing it. On flat surfaces there is usually no foundation for the bed border, but the wood should be placed on a drain of fine gravel or split so that the water runs well and the wood does not rot. Sharpened palisades can also be beaten directly into the ground without drainage. However, this bedding border does not last that long. Concrete foundations are always necessary when the bedding border is very high, the terrain is sloping or the ground is very unsustainable.