The Content Of The Article:
- The simple principle of the blackberry cut
- Blackberries grow very differently
- Pull and cut "orderly blackberries"
- Naturally growing blackberries pull and cut
- Tame wild blackberries
Thornless blackberry plants, like all blackcurrant crops, do not grow as stormy as the wild ancestor; but also these blackberries should be cut back regularly if you are interested in good returns. The following is about how the different blackberries grow and how they are cut:
The simple principle of the blackberry cutTo cut blackberries properly, all you have to do is know how they grow and on which branches they will last for how long:
Blackberries are perennial herbaceous shrubs that in most species are green most of the year, and whose, depending on the variety, more or less prickly shoot axles age over time. These shoot axes form only a "framework" on which the blackberry stands, from it further shoots (branches, rods, tendrils) are formed. These just grow green in the first year and only form fruit shoots in the second year. These fruit shoots are special lateral shoots, at the end of which the racemose or panic flower and fruit stands form. Blackberries carry exclusively on these two-year fruit shoots, which die off after the fruit development.
It can be harvested the whole season if it is motivated by fruit shoots: flowering starts in May, the first blackberries are ripe in July, but new flowers are constantly forming, and soon the next fruits are born. The blackberry blooms until August, the fruits appear correspondingly delayed until October. Only when the last fruit is harvested, the feeding of nutrients from the fruit drive begins, which then slowly dried up.
If the bramble bush should carry as many blackberries as possible, it is always a matter of always having as many twigs as possible on the bush in the second year, so that they develop as many fruity side shoots at their ends. The blackberry only produces new rods when it has room to do so and is stimulated to budge. Therefore, each of the rods are cut away, which were harvested in the past season fruit shoots. Since these rods never again form fruit shoots, they can and should be removed in full length.
This is just as true for normal blackberries and thornless blackberries, although they are in fact stingless, but like all blackberries are named after the Old High German word brāmberi = thorny shrubbery. Huh? That's the way it is, but the confusion with the spines and the thorns, which are firmly attached to the plant organs, is old; I'm sure you'll be more interested in mastering the confusion of brambles for the purpose of pruning. There are possibilities for this, but at first a look at how confusing the confusion will be:
Blackberries grow very differentlyThe growth of the original "perennial herbaceous shrub blackberry" you know well: Extensive fields of wild blackberries in the forest, from which at the outer edges of blackberries can be harvested. If you want to continue harvesting inside the shrub, it becomes unpleasantly spiky; no access to the most beautiful, thickest berries in the middle of the extensive blackberry bush is possible without a protective suit, chainsaw and extensive destruction of the plant.
Such monsters would like to have (almost, below) no one in the normal sized home garden, which is why it was started long ago to tame the blackberries by breeding. The results, the culture blackberries, however, were tamed to a very different extent: they form depending on the cultivar from the root base of shorter or longer rods that grow upright or semi-erect or almost like wild blackberries in the height and width and in their Make a few or many side shoots (fruit shoots).
This form of growth determines the size and stability of the support (for more slowly strictly upright growing blackberries reach three man-high bars, for almost like wild blackberries sprawling breeding varieties it needs a high, stable trellis). The number of side shoots determines the prospective harvest; The number of spines has an influence on the risk of injury at harvest, but also on the taste of the berries (see the next tip). Therefore, an overview of how the common blackberry cultivars usually grow follows:
- Rubus sect. Rubus 'Arapaho' grows upright with long stingless rods forming a medium number of lateral shoots, early blood + maturity, medium high yield of large black aromatic fruits
- 'Black Satin': Strong growth semi-erect, long stingless rods with many lateral shoots, early flowering, late maturity, high yield of large black moderately aromatic fruits
- 'Chester Thornless': Strong semi-erect habit, long stingless rods and medium number of side shoots, late flowering + maturity, very high yield of glossy black, large aromatic fruit
- 'Choctaw', strong semi-upright habit, long rods + medium number of side shoots and spines, very early flowering, medium maturity, medium yield of black, large sweet aromatic fruit
- 'Douglas', late variety with semi-erect habit, long stingless rods and a medium number of side shoots, very large aromatic not long-lasting fruits
- 'Hull Thornless': Strong growth, semi erect, long stingless rods, medium number of lateral shoots, rather late flowering + maturity, high yield of large persistent aromatic fruits
- 'Jersey Black': Sturdy variety with very strong growth, semi-erect, long rods with very large spines, medium number of side shoots that bloom early + bring ripe and medium yield of moderately aromatic fruits
- 'Jumbo': Broad-leaved with long, stingless rods and few lateral shoots, mid-early flowering + maturity, medium yield of very large, moderately aromatic fruits
- 'Karaka Black': Broad with long rods, many lateral spines + spines, very early flowering + ripe, medium high yield of very large conical, aromatic fruits
- 'Kiowa': Strong, upright to semi-upright habit with long rods + medium number of lateral shoots and spines, late flowering + maturity, high yield of very aromatic + large fruits
- 'Loch Ness' (Nessy), semi-erect to broad habit, long, stingless rods, low number of lateral shoots, mid-early flowering + maturity, high yield of large aromatic fruits
- 'Navaho', Very strong growth, upright, very long, stingless rods, medium number of lateral shoots, early flowering + late ripening, yield medium to high, fruit: medium sized + very aromatic
- 'Taylor's Fertile': Robust with strong semi-erect habit + long tail, many side shoots, low spines, very early flowering + early ripening, high yield of well-preserved aromatic fruits
- 'Theodor Reimers': Very strong and broad habit, very long rods, medium number of lateral spines + spines, late flowering + maturity, high yield sweet, very aromatic fruits
- 'Thornfree': Strong and broad habit with very long, stingless rods, medium number of side shoots, flowering + maturity very late, high yield, large fruit, well preserved, moderately aromatic
- 'Thornless Evergeen': Tall and broad, long stingless rods, high number of side shoots, flowering + maturity late to very late, yield medium to high, fruit: medium sized, preserved, aromatic
- 'Wilsons Early': Strongly upright to semi-erect, long-tailed with many lateral spines and few spines, very early flowering, medium early maturity, yield medium to high, medium-sized fruit, sweet, moderately aromatic
Pull and cut "orderly blackberries"
- It is best to plant the blackberry in the fall, then it can quietly form roots over the winter
- In the spring, the first cropping takes place
- Choose 2 - 10 strong rods (depending on the size of the blackberry bush and the trellis)
- These rods are intended to set fruit shoots, all weaker shoots are cut around it
- In the late winter / spring of the following season already existing side shoots of these fruit shoots are reduced to 2 -3 eyes
- In addition, 2 - 10 new rods may be grown, the fruit carriers for the next season, which are attached to the other side of the trellis
- All other shoots appearing in the spring are cut close to the ground
- Around June, the selected as future fruit shoots rods form more or less many long Geiztriebe
- It is usually recommended to rip out these shoots or shorten them to 2-3 eyes
- Some cultivars should not pacify this, but only spur them to form more side shoots
- These varieties are said to be better at rest when one of the shoots is allowed to grow as and where he wants
- Sometimes a few feet of shoots have to be "parked somewhere in the trellis" until the cocky shoot is cut in half in early winter
- When cut in the spring of the entire lighter miser part of this shoot is cut, he behaves from now on normal
- When the first fruit shoots are completely harvested, they slowly die off
- Because they are gathered on one side of the trellis, they can stay with the plant over the winter
- It absorbs nutrients from them, and old rods are a good winter protection
- In the next late winter / spring these fruit shoots are cut away
- On the other hand, the lateral shoots of the juvenile fruit shoots are cut down to 2-3 eyes
- And so on, and so on, always changing from side to side
Naturally growing blackberries pull and cutThere are gardens in which a trellis with neatly arranged blackberries would look a bit too neat, because the garden is supposed to look like an image of the real nature. In such close-to-nature garden management, the individual plants are as far as possible grown so that they grow similar to their natural role models (no visibly artificially grown Hochstämmchen, no box-shaped hedges, etc.), as they want and where they want.
Of course, with strong exceptions grow wherever they want, otherwise all these gardens consist of a few assertive plants. The wild blackberry is one of the exceptions: if it is allowed to grow as it wants, the rods of the second year over the first year, the third lie over the second, and so on. Down below, the rods die for fruit in the second year, you could say that wild blackberries grow into a kind of mountain.
Their culture blackberry more or less copies this growth, depending on how much wild blackberry they have "in them". There are totally stingless varieties reduced to order, where you have to ensure with a trellis of wood and deliberately oblique arrangement of the rods that the blackberry looks natural. With such varieties, you have little to do with trimming, even when you mix new and old rods. You just have to cut regularly from the beginning as described above for the "ordinary blackberries"; Even in the spring you recognize the harvested rods well, because they dry up.
If your blackberries are more like mimicking growth, you should probably be a bit more careful with "just let it grow" - unless you want to see a hint of wild growth, have the blackberries on a strong trellis (so you've been at half past one) dry tendril to cut them out altogether) and are willing to remove one or the other shoot or root drive before the trellis. Then you can cut away the harvested fruit shoots in the spring, when they are dried up and therefore easy to identify, and otherwise let the blackberries proliferate a little: in order to keep the foothills of the blackberries in check, a bed could be put in front of the blackberries, in which are planted short-lived plants and which is regularly dug into the depths.
Basically, these blackberries are cut in exactly the same way as described above; the harvested fruit shoots are removed after dying. Only the elimination of other shoots is not given as much attention here as with the properly kept blackberries, but in doubt is just occasionally "cut into the middle of the scrub". But beware: In the breeding varieties are some with "spiky" and some with "half daggers", the latter should not be left unattended for long.
If you live in a region with usually mild winters, you can cut back the removed fruit shoots in the fall, which is already very much in the overview for some wildly growing blackberries. In regions with cold winters, the old rods should stick to the spring because they protect the younger shoots against the winter sun and the whole plant against winter frost.
Tip: Some gardeners are satisfied with the "aromatic fruits" of a cultivated blackberry; others prefer blackberries because they want to eat blackberries, preferably blackberries that taste like blackberries. For these gardeners, there is only one: wild blackberries, even if the above description suggests that they have no business in the normal home garden. If you're looking for authentic taste, you will not get around spines anyway - the spiky species are known to have less flavor. If you're after the curative effects of blackberries (which want to use blackberry fruit acids and flavonoids to protect your family from cell damage and free radicals), it probably should be really wild blackberries that still carry all the phytonutrients in berries and leaves.
Tame wild blackberriesPerhaps the Wild-Blackberries can be planted in a piece of ground bounded by buildings. A small courtyard would be z. Ideally, for example, where the blackberries can send root shoots into the area and sinkers into the ground that can not explode. The alternative would be the culture in the (very large) bucket - there are people who harvest wild blackberries in no small quantities on the balcony.
The usual culture at the trellis is of course also possible.In addition to bleeding, there is also the regular processing of the area around and before the blackberries, otherwise you will soon have a plot full of blackberries. But this area before the blackberries should then rather be a casual piece of natural garden; Wild blackberries in a neat and properly maintained smaller home garden to keep in check, overwhelmed every gardener.
This casual piece of nature could be z. B. be planted with ground-covering and walk-in herbs, or with a non-English manicured lawn, both of which are maintained with the lawnmower. Again and again mowing is also a spur of a blackberry is not enough, under such conditions, the wild-blackberry can usually be quite well limited to their assigned space.
If the main plant gets too cocky, it's easy to slow down: Put a round of sport on a machete in your hand, flattening the cheeky blackberry and make a decent bramble bush from the leftovers,