Bleeding Heart - Location and Care Instructions

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crying heart

Originally, the Lamprocapnos was a wild forest dweller and had to prevail at their sites. Therefore, it requires little care, which is also clear when fertilizing. It usually suffices if she receives composting in early spring and autumn. Alternatively, a long-term fertilizer may be administered, but should the dosage be below the recommended level, overdose will be avoided.
  • Organic fertilizers such as compost or horn shavings are preferable to mineral fertilizers
  • The root area should never dry out completely, especially young plants are sensitive in this regard
  • Waterlogging is essential to avoid
  • Pour in the evening at or after sunset, or in the morning very early
  • remove only completely withered shoots, otherwise the plant will be weakened


Like almost all perennial plants, the bleeding heart is easily replicated through rooting or cuttings. Root splitting is best when the flower is over, or very early in the year, so that the new rhizome can be immediately set to its destination. For this purpose, the mother plant is carefully excavated, the root ball is divided with the spade or, better still, with a very sharp knife. The mother plant comes back into her planting hole, the young plant is placed at the prepared new location. The Bleeding Heart is a true-to-the-ground plant that does not like being moved. A mature plant responds to a new location by taking care of or refusing flowering. When splitting in the fall, make sure that the young plant is protected from frost. Propagation over cuttings should be done immediately after flowering. For this purpose, a 10 to 15 cm long shoot is separated from the plant and placed in a vase or a glass of water. After two to three weeks, the first small roots should show up. Now the cuttings can be placed in a seed pot and come with this to its future destination. If you want to make sure that the shoot is not damaged, you can also keep the young plant in the cool, bright basement or in the garage for the winter and put it out in the spring.
  • It is particularly easy to use cuttings with cuttings powder
  • The cuttings need light, but not full sunlight


crying heart

The heart of Mary is hardy and perennial, but is considered sensitive to frost. Therefore, it is necessary to protect the perennial from frost in winter. If frost damage occurs, the entire plant will sprout only sparingly or die altogether. Therefore, autumn should be ensured with leaves, fir branches or a garden fleece for safe frost protection. Cultivated as a container plant, it can be placed in a cool, bright cellar to come out after the last night frosts.

Diseases and pests

The Bleeding Heart is relatively immune to diseases and pests. Should she take care of that, however, that may be due to too much or too little water, you will not get any waterlogging. The withering of the leaves directly after flowering is normal, it retreats very early in the ground. Occasionally, infestation by aphids may occur, then a nettle slug should be used as a natural pesticide.
Tip: All parts of the plant are considered poisonous, therefore, for sensitive garden lovers gloves should be a necessary measure. Keep children and pets away.
The striking beauty of the Bleeding Heart is a highlight in the garden in early summer. As an easy-care, perennial shrub, it becomes more beautiful and bigger every year, so that the abundance of flowers increases significantly. In the garden, it harmonizes with other flowering perennials, and in the vase it is a long-lasting, eye-catching flower. The undemanding perennial remains a real eye-catcher at the right place for a long time in every garden.

Video Board: Bleeding Hearts From Sprouting to When They Die Back..

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