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He needs only a little care when planting, the cutting is quite easy and the most common diseases do not really harm the tree, the blood maple is therefore an attractive tree for the easy-care garden.
Plant blood mapleThe location for the maple should be chosen carefully, because the real blood maple is quite old and can reach a height of 20 to 30 m. The deciduous tree is widespread as natural vegetation over much of Europe. Among European maple species, it is the maple that has spread furthest north. So he feels well in our climate, especially in the flat land, he rarely grows higher than at an altitude of about 1,000 meters. He tolerates a location in partial shade, but also likes the sun.
Actually, the blood maple makes no special demands on the ground. Experience has shown that it thrives best on light and nutrient-rich soils, which may also be rich in lime. The maple can react sensitively to very compacted soils, otherwise it is a fairly resistant and city climate-proof tree that tolerates dryness well. That's why he likes to be used in urban areas and parks for greening.
The blood maple can be planted in the spring until about the end of April or in the autumn until the end of October. Basically, it is said that a tree grows all the safer the sooner it was transplanted before the spring emergence. Of course, it also depends on the current weather conditions, especially in spring, the planting time can be quite short, if there is snow and frost until March or already in January warm days for early budding of flowers and leaves.
When planting, you should make sure that the root is placed at the correct height in the planting hole. If you plant too deeply, part of the tribe would be underground. This makes the tree vulnerable to fungi for a long time because it is exposed to constant ground wetness. If you have planted a high trunk, you should support it with wood piles in the growing season, so that it does not get into an imbalance by wind or storm and then grows.
Cutting blood mapleIf you have acquired a pointed maple rootless with no bales, the tree gets a planting cut. The roots are cut so shortly before planting, so that the root area can absorb well water and nutrients. Damaged root parts are also cut away. In the same proportion as root mass was taken away, should then be cut in the crown area, so that the remaining roots are able to supply the aboveground plant mass.
As with a later care cut, you should make sure that you remove branches that overlap or that are in competition with a mainspring. Leading drives are first the middle drive (the main drive) and then some strong, regularly to the sides outgoing branches, which offer themselves as leading drives.
If the maple was planted with bales, the first pruning is due at the earliest at the end of the next vegetation season after planting. How hard you cut depends on whether the maple has already overcome planting or if it suffers from a "plant shock". If the latter is the case, the maple concentrates more on its roots anyway and forms only the absolutely necessary amount of leaves at the top. Then the tree does not need a cut, he has to root first properly, which can take some years in extreme cases.
If you notice that the maple suddenly grows on its own, it can be pruned. The blood maple should be groomed about every two years so that it does not overgrow or grow larger and wider than the environment would have it fit. With this care cut all dead or weak branches are removed, otherwise it is about bringing light into the treetop area. If a treetop grows so densely that the light reaches only the outer leaves, the tree would either wither away or, in its distress, even develop a one-sided growth.
The most common diseases of the blood mapleNorway maple is quite common Uncinula tulasnei a species of downy mildew specialized in this tree, which is easily recognizable on the whitish surface of the upper leaf. The powdery mildew can be easily wiped off and is visually striking, but otherwise does not significantly affect the tree.
There are some in the house and allotments against the powdery mildew approved active ingredients, which may also be applied to ornamental shrubs, if the application is made according to instructions. These funds are available to you in the trade, the seller is required to pay attention to the approval and to advise you. You can also visit the website of the Federal Office of Consumer Protection and Food Safety, bvl.bund.de, download the current list of plant protection products approved for house and allotments, you can find them under the menu item "Plant Protection Products, Approved Plant Protection Products, Plant Protection Products Directory", Part 7 concerns the home and allotment area.
As the powdery mildew does not disturb the tree very much, you can also completely dispense with pesticides and proceed more gently against the mildew. To do this, wash the leaves with a weak salt solution, 10 grams of salt per liter of water. This is an option, at least for a small maple, after four days an improvement should be seen. You could also dissolve 0.1 kg of table salt in a watering can with water and water the leaves in dry weather, but then you should be sure that the salt does not harm the soil.
Furthermore, the Norway maple is quite often attacked by the tar-stain disease (Rhytisma acerinum), also called maple-wrinkled scab. This leaf spot disease often develops a strong infestation, it looks quite dangerous then, since it provides the leaves richly with black dots. However, it is much less threatening than it seems. Because to prevent this disease, you just have to carefully remove the fallen leaves in the fall. The tar blight does not last, but it breaks out every year, if you have removed the leaves with the infection material, you have the infection cycle, the disease can thus effectively interrupted. Incidentally, they have hardly any other option, because there are no products that are approved according to the current list of pesticides for house and allotment against leaf spot fungi on ornamental plants and ornamental shrubs.