The Content Of The Article:
- Cut boxwood properly
- Cut by variety or variety after cutting?
The boxwood cut is basically simple: In the spring, do not miss the basic cut and, if necessary, cut something over the season. As soon as the green forest of leaves is formed into a figure, you need a proper guide, which is not particularly complicated with simpler figures. Only the execution can take a lot of time depending on the desired degree of precision, and the best cutting times get a slightly greater importance:
- The genus Buxus belongs to the family Buchsbaumgewächse in the order boxwood
- This genus of boxwood has about 100 species, but is otherwise quite alone in the plant world
- Of the 100 species, only a single German climate endures: the Buxus sempervirens, the ordinary boxwood
- In our case, only one botanical species of boxwood is cut, no matter how different the single plant may seem
- The differences were worked out in a long time of boxwood breeding
- They concern the size of the leaves, the number of shoots and the density of growth
- These differences mainly affect the shape of the cut, the smaller and denser the leaves, the more precise the shape
- What then means consequence: cutting more often and more accurately
- The genetic characteristics unaffected by breeding are the same in all our boxwoods
- What is meant for the trim that z. For example, the time specifications apply to all our growing box trees
- Even in terms of trimming of old (previous year) wood, box trees of different shapes behave the same way
Cut boxwood properly
As just described in the profile, all German box trees need / get exactly the same basic cut. Only when it comes to the shape cutting, differences of the individual varieties of breeding come into play. Whether and how you properly trim your box tree will then also depend on your demands on the result. This applies to each of the following "cut levels":
Loose boxwood cutThe trimming of a boxwood, which grows on the garden gate as a shrub, delimits areally planted areas along the way as a border without a special sectional shape or offers a little unobtrusive privacy in a group, is simple and does rather little work:
- Before the beginning of the shoot, the boxwood gets its basic cut
- Initially, this rough cut determines the rough shape
- Later, basic cut means shape correction if parts of the Buxus go astray
- Only the basic cut may go down to the old wood
- The boxwood is still in the resting phase at the time of cutting
- Even injuries of the old wood (from the previous year) heal, without the Buxus loses too much sap
- With the basic cut, freely to loosely growing box trees are shortened a little if necessary
- Need is z. For example, if the boxwood is to branch more
- Or if it is to be braked in height / width growth
- After expulsion, damaged branches can be removed until about September
- Each cut should now be limited to the new release
- Old wood now has so much to do with wound healing that it often does not exorcise anymore
Straight cuts of boxwood hedgesThe "next cut level" concerns z. As the box trees, the square, practical, well round the herb garden, but also the large hedge around the property, whether it was round, oval or angular shaped at the apex.
This grouped boxwood row plantations are cut in exactly the same way as solitary standing wood, but just as well as the strict shape cut here does not need to be done:
- The coarse form is done as just described
- The fine cuts of the straight surfaces are made when the shoot has grown a few inches
- As a rule, it is around mid-May so far
- However, they are basically possible throughout the season until the end of August / beginning of September
- If the hedge is not to be higher, the new shoot must give way to a rest piece
- But again, do not cut into old wood because that does not heal well anymore
- If the plant is still growing, only a piece of the new shoot is sacrificed
- A little cut is also advisable in this case, so that the boxwood continues branching
Tip: A mini-hedge is easier to cut straight on the sides when you stand with your legs across the hedge and lead the scissors upside down. If the upper end should be cut horizontally straight, this will not help you anymore, here proves to be the garden stool.
Strict shape cutIn the strict shape cut, as in the hedge, the cutting phases coarse cut and fine cut are maintained. Here, the times should be strictly adhered to in any case, with the rough pruning is usually started in March.
The budding is usually ready for cutting from the end of April, ie grown by 2 cm. Depending on the region and the weather, the new shoots may also need until the beginning of May, and for some form figures anyway apply other centimeter specifications (because you "need a little more stuff").
At this stage, the most difficult thing about cutting a shape is that you have to develop clairvoyant abilities on complex shapes to guess the direction and location of a branch and cut accordingly. But there are a lot of simple form figures that are simply cut all around.
Rigorous cuts will be made in August (September at the latest) to densify the internal structure and make the structure of the plant as compact as possible. If you fail to do so, your figure would grow outward getting thinner, the visual effect could be called "fraying". The fine-cut can also be made more frequently than twice a year, Topiary professionals are every weekend with scissors on the way (at least). As of September, the figure does not want to see any more scissors, but to mature in peace until winter.
Tip: Perfect boxwood figurines demand attention in every way, even in terms of the weather. This should be the best cloudy and cloudy, so that the boxwood least suffers under the cut. When fresh cut surfaces are irradiated by the sun in warm weather, the exuding plant juice is rudely boiled, which the plant does not appreciate, then they dry out and turn brown (permanent, until sprouting shoots mask the disaster). If thousands of small fresh cut surfaces are irradiated by the sun, this is no longer a feast for the entire plant metabolism. Alternative for those who do not want to be able to follow the weather: pruning boxwood in the evenings, when the sun has set but the visibility is still good.
Cut by variety or variety after cutting?The genus Buxus could be described as a kind of "Eigenbrötler" within the flora of the world: Its order (boxwood, Buxales) has produced only two families, the boxwood plants (Buxaceae, except for Buxus only a few Dickmännchen, meat berries and Styloceras shrubs populated), and the Haptanthaceae, which remain with the single genus Haptanthus and their only species "Haptanthus hazlettii" obviously also prefer to themselves. Overall, the genus boxwood has a meager 25 relatives around the world, while z. B. the genus Robinie 730 Geschwistergattungen with about 20,000 species can show.
Within the genus is a little more going on, 109 recognized species of boxwood currently contains the world plant list, but of which most species grow in the tropics, only two in Europe and only one species with us, because it is the second, the Balearic Boxwood, with us is too cold.
For planting in Germany and in countries with a similar climate, only the common boxwood Buxus sempervirens remains, and now you also know why the box trees in your area look very similar: that's because they are very similar - like all boxwoods throughout the northern hemisphere.
This boxwood has been bred here for a very long time, but has obviously resisted any attempt at a sensational transformation by breeding, which is why it was limited to detail changes (limit): size of leaves, strength + number of shoots, density + horizontal extent of habit. In terms of suitability for shape cuts are the crucial detail changes that are involved in the fact that the classic form trees were cut from boxwood and become.
The smaller and more uniformly oval the leaves and the denser the growth, the easier it is to see the contours of a figure in the shape of the plant (imagine, for one thing, that you cut out a detailed figure from a trumpet tree with double-sized leaves - that would have to be 200 m high, so that the contours come out well).If the breeders had not offered perfect boxwoods long ago in this regard, then privet and cypress trees might also be cut to wild shapes everywhere.
But so the box trees are the first choice if you want to have a complicated figure in your garden at some point. You can choose whether to select the variety according to the type of cut or to adjust the cut of the variety; This is followed by the best boxwood varieties for shape cuts:
- Buxus sempervirens 'Angustifolia': Grows round and wide and is suitable for any simple shape
- Buxus sempervirens 'Blue Heinz': Grows round, very dense and low in all small roundish shapes
- Buxus sempervirens 'Globosa': Grows densely and reaches the same diameter in each direction, for balls, pom-poms and squares
- Buxus sempervirens 'Herrenhausen': Particularly broad habit for flat shapes
- Buxus sempervirens 'Hollandia': Dense almost spherical growth for all roundish forms
- Buxus sempervirens 'Suffruticosa': Fast, upright growth with strong main branches, the book for narrow cone shapes
- Buxus sempervirens var. Arborescens: Natural variety with rounded-conical, dense and not too slow growth, a book for simple figures