Cutting Bougainvillea - Timing & Instructions

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Cutting Bougainvillea - Timing & Instructions: plant

The Bougainvillea, also called trill or bird flower, is relatively fast growing and is cultivated in this country mainly as a shrub or trunk, more rarely as a climbing plant. With its 10-18 species, it is not one of the most species-rich but certainly one of the most magnificent plants. The special feature of the triplet flower are not the small white flowers, but the colored bracts that surround the flower and unlike the actual only a few days of flowering, appear several weeks in the most magnificent colors, provided they are regularly blended.

Time to cut

  • Cut in the spring
The Bougainvillea is a very cut tolerant plant that tolerates almost any cut. Cutting is possible at different times, with early spring between the beginning of February and the end of March being the best time for a strong pruning. This should be done at bud initiation or before the plant develops new buds. Such a radical cut in the spring should promote the formation of many new shoots, but at the same time serves to maintain the health of the plants.
  • summer pruning
In addition to a radical cut in the spring, appropriate cutting measures are possible during the entire growth, even in summer. However, these cuts should not be as strong as the spring cut, but done after every new flowering, about every four weeks. It's all about cutting the bougainvillea into shape, pruning and trimming.
  • autumn section
If the plants have grown too expansive, perhaps because the pruning was missed in the spring or the space for wintering is rather limited, the trifolium flower can be blended before the move to winter quarters, so in the fall. This cut can easily turn out a bit stronger again.
Tip: The later a stronger pruning takes place, the later this plant develops flowers.

Guide to the spring cut

The Bougainvillea blooms like most Sommerbl├╝her at the new shoot or also this year's drive. Therefore, as already mentioned, the main cut should be done in early spring when the shoot starts. However, it is important to ensure that is not cut too early, otherwise it can come to the young shoots to nasty frost damage. If, on the other hand, one waits too long with the cut, for example, until buds have already formed, one removes the already new shoots and thus minimizes the number of flowers.

  • At the spring cutting radically remove all flowering or lateral shoots emanating from the main shoot.
  • Cut off shoots directly at the base.
  • Otherwise, completely remove diseased, dead and wilted parts of the plant up to the main trough.
  • Also completely remove disturbing shoots.
  • In an education as a shrub or trunk trimming the plants all around.
  • This can or should be done several times throughout the season.
  • It is always cut back so far until an attractive spherical shape is achieved.
  • Cut back up to two thirds.
  • This brings the triplet flower into shape and makes it grow thicker or bushier.
  • Depending on the degree of woodiness cut back shrubs to about half or one third.
Tip: Before each cut, it is advisable to disinfect the respective cutting tools with spirit to avoid a transmission of diseases. In addition, it is advisable to wear thick gloves, because the triple flower has relatively thick and sharp thorns, on which one can easily hurt.

Guide to the summer cut

As already mentioned, can be blended several times during the entire growth period. In contrast to the spring section, no entire branches or shoots are removed, but only shaping cuts are made. Long shoots that have formed from spring to summer can now be shortened. This is true even if the flowering subsides.
Ideally, the new shoots, which are recognizable by their bright green bark, cut in about half. Blending takes place as soon as the first flowering flora has withered or dried out. Withered bracts can be recognized by a parchment-like structure. This cut promotes a better branching of the stub shafts or the formation of numerous short shoots and after about a month the formation of new flowers or bracts. For a recurring flowering, the summer cut should be repeated on freestanding specimens approximately every four weeks, d. H. after each additional flowering. This four-week cut is also recommended for spherical triplet flowers and should already be done in young plants. The more regularly the bougainvillea is cut, the more compact its growth and the more flowering it stays. After the cut fertilization of the plants is recommended, because every cut means stress for the plants.
Tip: If a complete incision is omitted during the growth phase, the plants develop very long thorny shoots. As the bougainvillea blooms exclusively at the shoot tips, this significantly reduces the flower formation. Therefore, a regular cut immediately after flowering makes sense.

Instructions for autumnal cut

Treble flower - Bougainvillea

If the bougainvillea were able to grow unhindered or if the available space in the winter quarters was limited, a stronger pruning cut can be made instead of a spring pruning even in the autumn before wintering. On the other hand, if all the necessary cutting measures have been carried out regularly, both in spring and during the growth and flowering phase, a fall cut can be dispensed with altogether.

Further care tips for Bougainvillea

The triple flower is relatively fast-growing and can develop meter-long tendrils. If she is cultivated as a climbing plant, she needs a stable trellis. Depending on the variety, the color-intensive white, yellow, orange or pink, red or blue bracts show up in several batches. The color intensity is stronger, the more sunlight the plant gets. Therefore, sunny to sunny locations are optimal. Bougainvillea needs plenty of water in summer, especially when new flower buds appear. Waterlogging does not tolerate it, which can quickly lead to Wurzelelf├Ąulnis.
The Bougainvillea is not hardy in this country and is therefore cultivated almost exclusively as a container plant. It should be kept cool or cold but free from frost. The temperatures must not fall below 0┬░ C. Most species throw their leaves in winter, so they can be put in a darker place if necessary. In wintering temperatures of 12┬░ C (+/- 5 K), for example, in a conservatory, some species also bloom in winter.
From February, it should be brighter and warmer again, more watered and be fertilized for the first time at the beginning of budding. Outside, the driftwood flower at the earliest, if no night frosts are to be expected or better after the so-called sheep's cold, between 4 and 20 June, because during this time it can come again to a cold snap, which is not the case every year, If necessary, it can be repotted to fresh soil in spring. However, one should not repot too often, because the Bougainvillea likes it in the root area rather cramped. For this reason, the new planter should only be slightly larger. If it is too big, the plant will invest a lot of energy in the rooting and the growth in size, which in turn affects the flowering.
The perennial Bougainvillea is one of the most beautiful potted plants ever, provided that it is regularly blended. Then she shows her striking, colorful bracts several times from spring to autumn. Ideally, it is cut back vigorously in the spring and then trimmed or shortened once every four weeks as soon as the bracts have withered. If you let this plant grow undisturbed, it forms very long thin shoots or tendrils, which form in the course of time less and less flowers.

Worth knowing about bougainvillea care

Bougainvilleas bloom above all at the instinctual ends. When the climber is cut back every year, it develops into a compact, well-branched bush that flowers intensely. In addition to a normal pruning you also shorten the shoots after each flowering rush.
  • Location is sunny - the plants like as much sun as possible.
  • Ideal is a warm, airy, rain-protected place. Drafts or a lot of wind but the plants do not like.
  • The plant substrate should be rich in nutrients, permeable, but also slightly moisturizing.
  • Enrich commercially common unit earth with some loam, that's enough.
  • Pour little. The plant substrate should not dry out! Short periods of drought in summer stimulate flower formation.
  • Much fertilize! During the growing season every 1 to 2 weeks with normal liquid fertilizer as directed.
  • The overwintering of a Bougainvillea is best done in the cold house. The plant is not hardy.
  • The following applies: Keep in the cold until cold, always frost-free. In cold and dark the plant throws off the leaves.
  • During the period of rest, you should rarely water, but do not let it dry out completely! Fertilize is also to be avoided.
  • In the spring you should turn the plant bright and warm again in the morning (February). Ideal is a south window.
  • The fertilizer can start again as soon as the first leaves have been expelled.
  • Water more from this point, but still sparing, so that not only leaves form.
  • When clearing out after the icy saints you should first put the plant in the shade and slowly get used to the sun!
  • Hibernation is also possible in the conservatory at about 15┬░ C. Then the bougainvillea usually blooms.
  • Repot only rarely! Bougainvilleas bloom better in tight vessels.
To cut
  • A Radikalschnitt is best done in the spring at the beginning of shoot in early February to March.
  • The later cut, the later the bougainvillea will bloom.
  • Cut all side shoots out of the main shoots completely directly at the beginning. This brings many and powerful new flower shoots.

Bougainvillea can be grown as a high stem or even tree, bushy shrub or in any other form. It is possible to trim the plant well:

  • In summer, only the long shoots are shortened when the bloom subsides. Thus, flowering short shoots form.
  • If necessary, the bougainvillea can also be cut before it is cleared in autumn. It does not need so much space in winter quarters.

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