The Content Of The Article:
- Calla species are not hardy - with one exception
- Hibernate Garden Calla - That's how it works
- Information for the termination of hibernation
- Bring frost-resistant Calla through the winter in the bed - That's how it works
- Winter hardy zantedeschia in the pot outdoors over winter
- Room Calla hibernate in the pot - That's how it works
Wondering if your Calla tolerates frost? In fact, Zantedeschia do not let it stop at a single flowering time, when careful gardeners take into account the degree of their hardiness. This applies to winter-flowering, evergreen room calla and summer-flowering, deciduous garden calla alike. Few species of this elegant genus have learned to survive in winter conditions. As perennial shrubs, the South African arum family still thrive. Find out here, how it is concretely ordered for the frost-tolerance of the different Calla species. Find out in detail how the wintering in the pot is crowned with success.
Calla species are not hardy - with one exceptionAll Calla species are native to Africa. There they have selected different climatic zones, whereupon the different flowering times are due. Summer flowering tarantuleae in habitats, with rainy summers, while winter-flowering Calla species are located in regions with a humid winter climate. This results in a tailor-made care that takes into account adequate water and nutrient intake. In terms of winter hardiness, however, all plants pull together.
In the central distribution areas of South Africa, the annual mean temperatures rarely fall below 20 degrees Celsius. Even in the northernmost habitats, such as Kenya, Zambia or Angola, the thermometer does not drop below 10 degrees Celsius during the coldest months of the year. As a result, calla and indoor and outdoor varieties are not hardy - with one exception.
The increased demand from enthusiastic Calla friends for frost-hard Zantedeschien did not ignore knowledgeable breeders. Therefore, the first hardy calla hybrid for bed and tub is now available for you. It is the white, summer flowering variety 'Calla Crowsborough', which certainly will not be the only frost resistant strain for a long time.
Hibernate Garden Calla - That's how it worksEach calla sprouts from a rhizome or a tuber as an organ of rest. Thus, their growth is comparable to known bulbous and tuberous flowers, such as tulips, cyclamen, lilies or gladioli. As the flowers are reminiscent of lilies, popularly the exotic plants call sometimes calla lily, without a botanical relationship exists between the two plants. Growth as a geophyte opens up two uncomplicated methods of hibernation for deciduous garden zantedeschia. How to proceed professionally:
- From the end of August / beginning of September gradually pour less and no longer fertilize
- At the beginning of October, dig up the tubers or rhizomes from the pot substrate or the beetroot
- Cut off dried, dead herbaceous parts of the plant down to 5 cm
- Ideally brush off adhering soil and do not wash off
- Let the tubers dry for 2 to 3 days on a wire rack
Tip: Zantedschien but from a poisonous plant juice. Contact with the skin may cause skin irritation such as nettle rash or rash. Please wear long-sleeved clothing and gloves during all planting and maintenance work.
Information for the termination of hibernationYou are free to store calla rhizomes in dry, cool and dark conditions until the beginning of the planting season in May. On the other hand, if you wake up the exotic jewelry prematurely from hibernation and drive the tubers, the effort will be rewarded with an earlier flowering time. This is how the plan succeeds:
- Get the tubers out of the winter quarters at the beginning of March
- Pots or bowls fill with a mix of sand and peat in the ratio 2: 1
- Insert the root pieces 10 cm deep
- Press on the substrate and spray only with water
Bring frost-resistant Calla through the winter in the bed - That's how it worksIf you have decided on the hardy calla variety 'Crowsborough', the autumn plan can be canceled from the care plan.Although the breeders of this Zantedeschia certify a frost hardiness of up to - 20 degrees Celsius, we recommend the following protective measures for the sake of caution:
- No longer fertilize and water less from July
- Before the onset of winter cut back the now dried plant down to 10 cm
- Spread a 10-15 cm thick layer of mulch on the bed of leaves, brushwood or straw
- Alternatively cover with a breathable fleece
- Remove the mulch or fleece at the beginning / middle of March
Winter hardy zantedeschia in the pot outdoors over winterWith its densely bushy, flower-rich growth, the hardy Calla is suitable for cultivation as a perennial potted plant. Since the rhizomes in the tub are less protected than in the garden soil, appropriate protective measures are indispensable. With the following precautions, the perennial can overwinter on the balcony or terrace:
- Before the first frost put the pot in front of a wind and rain protected house wall or in a niche
- Between the stone floor and pot, push a block of wood to protect against the cold of the ground
- Cover the vessel with foil, fleece or jute
- Cut the retracted shoots to a height of 10 cm
- The substrate cover with autumn leaves, sawdust or straw
Please note that this winter protection is only successful with large buckets. Pots with a diameter of less than 30 cm please put in a frost-free winter quarters. If space is lacking, place the pot in a wooden box with a thick layer of bark mulch on the floor. Fill all cavities up to the pot edge with bark mulch and cover the substrate with leaves.
Room Calla hibernate in the pot - That's how it worksWintertime is the heyday of calla aethiopica and calla odorata, which thrive in indoor culture. In late autumn, the specialist retailer keeps ready young plants that are just before the beginning of the flowering period or have already blossomed. So you will get the exotic flowers during the cold season:
- Set up at the beginning of the flowering period at 12 to 15 degrees in the bright window seat
- At first pour only moderately with soft water and fertilize every 14 days
- Flowering calla move to a sunny spot with temperatures around 20 degrees Celsius
- Higher temperatures reduce the duration of flowering
From February / March, when the flowering time is over, reduce the amount of irrigation water and stop the supply of nutrients. The summer break is spent in evergreen room kalla with dry root ball on a sunny, rain-protected place in the garden. In early autumn, the cycle starts again by adding the plant, repotting it and resuming water and nutrients.
Tip: Calla species for cultivation as a room or garden flower should not be confused with dragon root (Calla palustris), the only species within the genus Calla. This is native to the northern hemisphere and completely hardy. Again and again, confusion is caused by the fact that in the trade dragon-root is often offered as swamp-calla. With Zantedeschien there is only a distant, botanical relationship.
Divergent growth and flowering times of South African Calla species have no influence on the degree of their winter hardiness. As this guide shows, temperatures below 10 degrees Celsius are equally problematic for garden and room calla. In order for the tropical flowering plants to thrive perennially, a cool, dry resting period after flowering is required. Summer flowering, deciduous varieties also offer the option to overwinter the tubers without pot in the frost-free, dark cellar. Who does not shy away from the little effort, drives the roots from March, so that the elegant flowers unfold earlier. The exception to the rule is limited to a single variety so far. A Calla Crowsborough survives the winter in the bed under a thick mulch layer. As a potted plant, the Zantedeschia receives a warming winter coat.