Cultivating celery - this is how the cultivation of celery leaves succeeds

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Cultivating celery - this is how the cultivation of celery leaves succeeds: celery

Leaf celery is a spicy-aromatic and above all vital-rich ingredient in many savory foods and does not need a garden bed for a rich yield. In addition, the cultivation of the leaved celery is very easy and therefore easily possible even for beginners in plant care. Important for this, however, is the corresponding basic knowledge about the claims of celery. Because as easy as the Schnittsgelie is, there are still peculiarities in the culture - and these begin with the selection of the substrate and the Vorzucht the celery seedlings.


Celery is divided into:
  • celery root
  • Perennial or celery
  • leaf celery
For the use of the leaves, the appropriately named leaf celery is recommended, which forms only thin stems and is also ideal for the cultivation in pots or pails. Alternatively, however, the stalk or celery may also be used. Although this tends to be better in the bed, but can also be pulled in the bucket. In addition, both the leaves and the rods can be harvested, but for a shorter time than the celery in the pot.
If you have enough space and you do not want to harvest the celery leaves all year round, then you are well advised to buy celery. On the other hand, celery is the better choice for the year-round crop and harvest of the green.

Pre-breeding and sowing

The celery is just as celery and celeriac quite sensitive to cold and frost. Therefore, the sowing outdoors can be done only after the Eisheiligen. However, then it has to wait a relatively long time for the harvest. It is therefore recommended to either prefer the celery or to buy young plants directly.
When sowing - whether this is the preference, directly outdoors or for culture in the bucket - the following points should be noted:

1. Use herbal, vegetable or seedling soil. Cover the seeds only thinly and best with sieved soil.

2. Keep substrate and seeds permanently moist for the first few days. Cover either the planter with transparent foil, spray daily or pour moderately.

3. When pre-breeding, separate the seedlings and pique when they reach a height of about five centimeters. In the bed, it is sufficient to sow the celery with a distance of 20 to 30 centimeters in the row and about 40 centimeters between the rows. In the bucket the plants may stand a little closer.

Tip: If the leaves are harvested early and frequently and the plants are thinned out regularly, a distance of five to ten centimeters between the plants can be perfectly sufficient when sowing in the pot. Otherwise it will be too tight.


The location should be as sunny as possible. Outdoors, maximum shade is recommended for celery. When in-house culture, the location should be at least very bright, if direct sunlight is not feasible.


Celery - Celery - Celery - Celery - Apium graveolens

Nutrient-rich, loamy, humic - this is the optimal substrate for the celery. Normal garden soil, if necessary compacted with clay and should be enriched with compost or manure in any case, then it is sufficient for the cultivation of the Staudenselleries. If the seeds have been brought forward in a nutrient-poorer substrate, this fertilizer can be buried. Again, this is manure or compost or a mixture of these and garden or vegetable soil. In order for the nutrients to be able to disperse and settle, the fertilizer should already be applied in the autumn before the cultivation of the leaf celery, but at least two to four weeks before the planting out.

plant out

As mentioned, the planting should be done after the Eisheiligen to avoid frost damage. The young plants are inserted at the distance already mentioned of 20 to 30 centimeters in the row and about 40 centimeters between the rows. Afterwards, the soil should be thoroughly moistened. In addition, care must be taken in the first few days that the substrate remains moist.

to water

The celery is watered abundantly and regularly. Dehydration should be avoided because it is not well tolerated by the aromatic plant. On the other hand, persistent moisture or a small amount of water in the saucer or planter is not a problem.


If a nutrient-rich substrate has been selected or the soil has been prepared accordingly, there is no need to apply additional fertilizer in the first one to two months. After that fertilization can be done by stinging nettle. Alternatively, untreated pond or aquarium water, manure or compost can be used in small quantities. The nutrients are given in vegetable manure and pond water every two weeks, with manure and mature compost once a month.

Culture in the bucket

Pure celery is best suited for pot culture, but with celery, this form of cultivation is also possible. It should be noted here in addition to the already mentioned:
  • Pour as possible without wetting the leaves and not to use too cold water
  • often to water and prevent the substrate from drying out
  • to put the planter in the house when the temperature falls below 15° C
During the summer, the planter can stand outdoors. If the harvest of the leaf celery is also to be possible in autumn and winter, however, it should be placed as early as possible from the balcony onto a sunny window sill in order to avoid larger temperature fluctuations. So it would be ideal to make the change of location adapted to the room temperature. Incidentally, due to the sensitivity to frost, the plants quickly get damaged in the cold. A hibernation outdoors is therefore not possible.

Pests, diseases and care mistakes

For cutlets and diseases of the cut celery is not particularly susceptible, but it can quite possibly lead to leaf spot disease. The signs are brownish spots and black spots on the leaves. It is a fungal infestation, which occurs mainly in too short planting distance, waters from above or in very wet years. It can be prevented if the celery plants can dry quickly after being watered.
Also preventive is a horsetail broth, as it strengthens the plants on the one hand by the contained silica and on the other hand acts defensively on the spores. Another typical problem is the seemingly sudden death of the heart. This may also be due to a fungal attack, but is usually deficient. Remedy the already mentioned measures and the fertilization with algae lime.


Celery - Celery - Celery - Celery

When planting after the Eisheiligen the celery can be harvested approximately from July. The outdoor harvest season usually lasts until October. While the culture in the tub grows in autumn, the leaves can still be harvested by cutting them off individually.
Tip: If the cut celery is not cut into the heart, or too deep, the plants drive out again. This works even if the entire perennial has already been separated from the roots. Then it should be put in some water.


By drying or freezing, the celery loses aroma, so it is recommended to use it fresh. For ordinary use in the kitchen as an ingredient and decoration is usually sufficient to a small pot of the herb. In a bright, warm location and with regular watering and fertilization, the harvest is possible all year round. The approach of new plants is recommended before it comes to flowering in the second year. With regular use of the leaves and the consequent waste this is usually prevented anyway.
Celery and leaf celery are easy-to-care plants that can be easily grown in the bed or tub. For a rich yield only a few points need to be considered, making celery also suitable for beginners in plant care.

Video Board: Increase harvests with two crops in one year, I show the summer/second plantings.

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