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Even in ancient times, people knew about the healing power of celery. He is considered hypotensive and anti-inflammatory. Above all, it tastes great and can be used in many ways in the kitchen. That's why hobby gardeners have long since discovered it and cultivate celery - for reasons of space, mostly celery and less celeriac. For the cultivation to succeed, it requires some preparation. Above all, the soil should be well prepared. If the conditions are right, nothing stands in the way of a rich harvest.
Celery or Celeriac?Anyone who decides to grow celery in their own garden must first make a basic decision. The question that needs to be clarified is: celery or celeriac. From the requirements as well as the taste and the uses, the two types do not differ greatly. However, the cultivation of celery, which is often called celery, is much easier to accomplish. In addition, it requires less space and can also be used without problems in planters. In short: Who wants to have celery in the garden, should definitely grab celery.
sortsFrom the celery celery, the trade now offers a sheer confusing variety of varieties. In the selection, one should especially make sure that the selected variety is self-bleaching. If it is not, the cultivation becomes significantly more complex. Above all, this eliminates the otherwise usual setting of the plants in trenches and then the gradual dumping with soil. Varieties which have this self-bleaching property are, for example:
- Golden Spartan
- Tall Utah
LocationNo matter which type of celery you choose, the plants like it warm. Incidentally, the reason for this is not least the fact that, above all, the young plantlets are extremely cold-sensitive and can therefore easily be damaged by frosty nights. Therefore a sunny location is a must. At most he can be a bit partial. The location should also be well protected. In addition, the proximity to other plants and above all vegetables plays a major role in the choice of location. Celery is not compatible with everything that is grown in the garden. In no case should it be planted in a bed with the following herbs and vegetables:
- Beets of all kinds
All celery species and varieties need a very large amount of nutrients to thrive. It is not for nothing that one speaks of so-called "heavy tasters". Without a nutrient-rich soil so it is not. In addition, it should be rather loamy, contain much lime and also easily store the moisture. Thus, a sandy soil for the cultivation of celery falls away in principle. But if you have sandy soil in your garden, it does not necessarily mean that the celery could not grow here as well.
To make it work, it is of course necessary to enrich the soil before planting. Ideally, this happens already in the fall and therefore before the plants are applied in the spring. The nutrients thus have enough time to settle and accumulate in the soil. The soil is intensified intensively and thoroughly mixed with compost or conventional manure. As a rule of thumb, about four to five liters of compost or manure should be introduced per square meter of soil.
Tip: In order to be able to cover the necessary lime requirements of the celery, the compost should be mixed with shell limestone, which is available from specialist retailers. On five liters of compost around 100 grams of lime have been proven.
In addition to manure or compost incidentally horn horns or horn meal can be incorporated easily. To make it clear again: this applies to sandy soils. In rather loamy and nutrient-rich soils, this preliminary work is not absolutely necessary, but it does not hurt either.
- Loose, loamy, nutrient-rich soil
- in sandy soils, enrich the soil in the fall
- Use compost or manure for this
- four to five liters of compost or manure per square meter
cultivationCelery can not be sown directly in the garden like the celeriac in our latitudes.Instead, he has to be brought forward in the flat or in the greenhouse, and he does not want to experience any unpleasant surprises later on. The reason for this: To become a seedling to a young plant, the celery needs a relatively long time. It can be assumed that this will take up to eight weeks. The young plants are extremely sensitive to cold. It is therefore strongly recommended that you advance them so far that they can assert themselves outdoors from about May.
The breeding starts approximately from mid-March. To make it work, it is best to let the seeds swell in the water for one night. Then they are sown in a plant box. In principle, but also small planters in the size of about five by five centimeters are sufficient. For the cultivation one uses of course cultivation soil from the specialized trade and presses the individual seeds firmly in it. It is recommended to apply a small layer of sand, which should not exceed a thickness of about half a centimeter. Now the whole thing just has to be poured well and covered with a transparent lid. Alternatively, it can also be used for a transparent bag or a film.
There should definitely be something like a greenhouse effect. The ideal location for the planter is a bright, sunny windowsill in the next few weeks. Also important is the room temperature. It should move in a range between 16 and 20 degrees Celsius and under no circumstances fall below the 16-degree mark. Once the small plants have developed two or even three leaves, they must be pimped and relocated into separate pots. It can be a bit cooler during further cultivation, but here too the 16 degrees must not be undercut.
Tip: Before the young plants are finally planted in the bed, they should be used for a few days on the terrace or balcony to the outside and hardened. You should have a height of at least five centimeters.
- use special cultivation soil
- Press the seeds well into the ground, cover with a thin layer of sand and pour
- Cover with transparent lid or foil
- Location: bright, sunny window seat
- Room temperature: 16 to 20 degrees
- Plant little plants from about two leaves and repot
- Harden on the balcony before planting in the bed
Planting in the garden
After six to eight weeks of cultivation and previous hardening, the young plants are strong enough to finally move to the garden bed. Usually this will be the case from around mid-May. The plants are planted in series. The distance between the individual plants and between the rows should be about 20 centimeters. When planting, the depth from the planter must not be exceeded. The soil around each plant must be pressed firmly and then watered well. Note: As already mentioned, this applies to all self-bleaching varieties. If a different variety is used, approximately 25 centimeters deep holes must be dug for planting and these are filled over time. In addition, the planting distance must then be around 50 centimeters.
maintenanceThere are two main aspects of caring for celery plants: protection against cold and adequate supply of nutrients and water. If it threatens to get really cold again in the spring, the cover is recommended with a fleece. Regular watering or a basically moist soil is mandatory. In order to provide enough nutrients, the use of horn meal, which is easily mixed into the soil around the plants, is recommended throughout the growth phase. In addition, the celery must be additionally supplied with sodium and boron. For this, pouring with cold, well-cooked cooking water (potato water) or a special salt mixture is suitable.
Tip: Dissolve a teaspoon of sea salt in ten liters of water and pour the plants with it every month.
Celery is relatively insensitive to diseases and pests. There may be an infestation with the Septoria leaf spot fungus. This can be prevented by the individual plants are far enough away from each other. If necessary, can also be poured with a horsetail broth. Once the fungus has appeared, it can hardly be fought. You have to expect a lower harvest.