Grow lavender through seeds / cuttings and pull yourself

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Lantana, which is native to America and the vervain family, is one of the most popular ornamental plants in Western Europe. Especially in pots and pots as Hochstamm-, tendril and hanging plant adorns summery terraces and balconies tastefully with their colorful flowers. A sea of ​​flowers from Lantana can be created simply by propagation. The expert manual shows how to do it step by step.


Although lanterns are very easy to care for and undemanding, they are cultured in poor soil and small pots, often with growth inhibition and lack of robustness. This is usually the case with the cheapest potted plants. Nevertheless, to have years of enjoyment of this ornamental flower, it is worth the propagation, which can be carried out in various ways. Also, you do not have to spend money every year unnecessarily to buy new flowers, because here, too, multiplication keeps increasing the size of your Lantana stock.
Through the propagation you draw from a pre-existing plant a new specimen, which thrives under optimal conditions to fast and densely growing florets and thrilled by many flowers and intense color. Among the most promising types of propagation include self-harvested seeds and cuttings.


Seeds are mostly packaged in bags, but these are mostly exotic products from tropical countries. Care should be taken when using these as the seeds come from other weather conditions and these or the resulting new plants could have problems with the European climate. In the long term, seed propagation is more promising when collected and used from European breeding species.
Simply buy a lantana, pare it into a high-quality substrate with a high nutrient content and keep it evenly moist. In the middle of summer then small berries should form, in which the seeds are to be found. However, the seeds are ripe for harvest when the berries are black at the end of summer. The seed should then be stored until the optimal sowing date.

seed storage

In order for you to be able to grow new plants from the seeds of Lantana, it is essential that you stick to a few storage conditions:
  • Cut berries before storage and remove seeds
  • Spread evenly on newspaper or kitchen roll to dry
  • After about four to five days store in paper bags - do not use a plastic bag!
  • Store seeds dry and dark until next spring
  • Optimal storage temperature about 15 degrees Celsius
  • sowing


Since the seeds need several weeks to germinate, it is recommended to begin sowing about four weeks before the first frost or before the sacred ice. The beginning of sowing is then done inside the house at warm temperatures. Proceed as follows:
  • Fill the cultivation box or suitable top with cultivation soil
  • Using your fingers, lightly press the substrate lengthwise in the growing box or in the center of the pot
  • Distribute seeds evenly
  • About three seeds are calculated per centimeter
  • Cover laid seeds approximately 2 mm with substrate / soil, but do not press
  • Pull clear plastic film over the sowing
  • Location: bright with direct sunlight
  • Temperature: between 22 degrees Celsius and 28 degrees Celsius
  • germinationabout three or four weeks later
  • Pikierung: at the latest with a size of five centimeters
  • From outside temperatures of at least 18 degrees Celsius can pikierte Neupflanze out


The most suitable is an older plant for propagation by cuttings. The optimal time for this type of propagation is the spring from late May to mid-June. If you later cut cuttings, there is a risk that they will not be strong enough for wintering to survive the cold season unscathed. Although they will not necessarily come in, they will most likely react in the following year with a lack of growth and the first flowers will take longer to come.
With the following step-by-step instructions, the cuttings propagation almost always works:
  • preparation
  • Only look for annual shoots with at least two buds
  • Shoots must be between ten and twelve centimeters long
  • Separate shoots below the last pair of leaves from the main stem
  • Use only sharp blades or scissors for cutting
  • Cut off two lower pairs of sheets so that only four to six leaves remain
  • Free cions from inflorescences and shorten shoot tip
Tip: At the mother plant you should cover charcoal powder the interfaces.This serves to quickly dry them, while preventing bacteria from getting inside that can cause disease.
  • implant
  • Fill pot with nutrient-poor but humus-rich substrate
  • Press substrate moderately
  • Insert the cutting piece into the substrate up to about two centimeters below the first pair of leaves
  • Spread some substrate around the stem and press firmly for more hold
  • Spray substrate with plenty of water or pour gently
  • Cover the cutting with transparent plastic foil
  • Location: bright - no direct sun
  • Temperature: room temperature, but no direct heating air
  • Root formation: after about two weeks
  • Before getting out in the spring, get used to possible temperature differences by hardening


Alternatively to planting, roots can also be created by setting in a glass of water. Ideally, use a dark glass and fill it with lime-free (rain) water, which you must change at least every two days. In the water glass then set the cutting. Once a few strong roots have formed, you can plant the cuttings. As a rule, rooting takes about two weeks.
Tip: If the cutting stem is still soft, the insertion hole should be pricked with a pimier knife. In this way they prevent the stems from breaking when the cuttings are inserted.

Toughen up

To get used to the young plant to cooler or fluctuating outside temperatures, they are slowly lead to it. This is necessary because the small lanterns in their first and second years are still quite vulnerable. By curing, they are strengthened and they can then stay out even in the first year even at cooler night temperatures.
To harden them, place them in their pot during the day on the terrace or balcony. Initially, it should be a pure sun place. When the sun is gone, the young plant is brought back into the house. From the second week on, she also tolerates a place where the sun is replaced by shadows. For the cooler evening, she will continue to be brought in.
From the fourth week, the new Lantana can stay out all day in wind and weather. At night, for example, it should be placed in the garage or basement, where it is cooler than in the living room. From the sixth week on, it should be hard enough to stay out around the clock.


Whether planted in the garden bed or in a bucket, the Lantana young plants need from the first year on an optimal soil in order to thrive strong and healthy. The following conditions should be met by the soil:
  • Nutrient-rich soil based on compost
  • permeable
  • limepoor
  • pH value: neutral to acidic

to water


In the first weeks, the young plant should ideally be wetted only with a sprayer. Irrigation water from a watering can can quickly leach the loose soil away from the stem and thus take the young plant to a halt in the soil. Wet spraying is more advantageous here, although not less water should be used here. The lantana always needs a well-moist soil as a young plant from spring to the end of summer. In winter, the need for water drops, but the earth must not dry out.
Always use lime-free water, such as rainwater. Alternatively, you can also use tap water after it could stand for about two days. The lime then settles on the walls and the bottom of the container and in the irrigation water there is only little to no lime left.


This rosemary plant is not fertilized in the first year. Here it is still sufficiently supplied by nutrient-rich soil. If it has become stronger in the second year, the nutrient requirement increases and it should be fertilized as follows:
  • Fertilize every four weeks at the beginning of the growth phase in May
  • Fertilize budding every two weeks
  • Fertilize every six weeks between September and April
  • Use normal liquid fertilizer or natural organic fertilizer
  • Strictly follow the dosing instructions of the manufacturer!

To cut

Before the fall, the newly raised Lantana should be cut for the first time. Shorten the stems evenly by a maximum of one third of their length. In the second spring, before strewing, you can shorten the stems by another three centimeters and, above all, cut off the withered flowers and leaves, but then cut less towards the autumn.
From the third year, a reduction to about ten inches is recommended before the first shoots are seen. In this way, the lantana grows beautifully dense, also widens and develops into a strong plant.


Between October and March, the lantana needs winter rest. This gets it at temperatures between five degrees Celsius and ten degrees Celsius. Only at this cool can it shut down and rest the metabolism.If it is too warm, the leaves may fall off and, especially next year, react with little to no flowers and little growth.


From about the end of February, when first early spring flowers appear, the young plant is warmer, so that the metabolism slowly revives and the sprouting is stimulated, which takes several weeks.
The Lantana conjures up summery freshness in gardens and balconies with its intense colors and play of colors. It is not only very easy to care for, but it can also be easily multiplied to create large flower beds. For propagation, no special gardening expertise is required, but can be done with this professional guide by any layman uncomplicated. The only thing you need is an optimal soil, the appropriate sunny location and a little patience, as well as attention, so that the newly grown Lantana does not dry out. Propagation by seeds and cuttings provides an optimal opportunity to decorate balconies, terraces and flowerbeds for free with summery flair.

Video Board: A Guide to Lavender : Planting Lavender From Cuttings.

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