The Content Of The Article:
- To multiply cherry laurel through head cuttings
- Root chunks of cherry laurel in cold frame
- Sowing cherry laurel
The propagation by cuttings is the fastest way to new plants in the cherry laurel, which already in the next season to their final place in the garden allowed. Actually, the evergreen shrubs are real sprinters and grow properly every year, but in the first year rooted cherry laurel cuttings are not from the fast troop: it's normal for them to look as if nothing happens - but they will drive out and grow.
Cuttings material is abundant in the annual cut of the plants in June or July. The green shoot tips are suitable as head cuttings or basal cuttings with last year's wood as so-called cracked pieces.
To multiply cherry laurel through head cuttings
Head cuttings are 10 to 15 centimeters long, not yet completely lignified and thus still green shoot tips, which the gardener calls "half-ripe". Cut them off with a sharp knife under a leaf knot. The lower leaves are completely gone, the upper one cut in half, so that the cuttings on the leaf surface does not evaporate too much and can be accommodated in the growing box to save space. The cuttings are about half in Aussaaterde. Pour lightly and cover the container with a transparent plastic hood or foil to ensure high humidity. The vessel should be light and warm until it has become rooted for a few weeks. In water glass even longer shoots of 30 centimeters in length form roots. The shortening of the leaves is not necessary if the vessel walls are higher than the cuttings and the humidity in the glass is therefore high. But: In the water, the failure rate is higher than in the nursery.
Root chunks of cherry laurel in cold frame
Risslings are so-called basal or Fußstecklinge, which one demolishes with the Astring of the two-year wood and in Aussaaterde or a sand-Humus mixture puts. These cuttings are more robust than others, but the rooting takes longer. Cut off some biennial shoots - recognizable by the light wood - and tear off the annual, light green shoots. In the process, a bark tongue will stick to each cutting piece, which you will have to cut off before plugging in. The lower leaves and the soft shoot tip are also gone, the remaining leaves cut in half.
In Risslingen you cut off the long bark tongue before plugging
The cuttings rooted in a mini greenhouse with ventilation flaps in a bright location without blazing sun the fastest. However, they are so robust that they also form roots in earth-filled wooden crates and in the cold frame with loose, humus-rich soil. It is important that the earth remains moist, but does not wet. If you want to put them directly into the garden floor, cut a groove into the ground with a knife first, then the shoots penetrate more easily into the ground and do not bend over.
Rooted young plants potted in small pots, overwinter them protected in the garden and put the plants in their final place next year.
Sowing cherry laurel
For sowing cherry laurel, the seeds are removed from the ripe seeds in autumn and left to dry on filter or kitchen paper. The sowing is easy, but not for the impatient - only the germination period is already three to four months. However, if you have fun experimenting, you will get your money's worth, because the seedlings are not genuine and you can breed new and interesting varieties in this way with a little luck.
If you want to sow cherry laurel, harvest the black cherries in late summer and free the stones from the soft pulp
Cherry laurel is a cold germ, the seeds must swell at a good four degrees for a few weeks. You can put the seed pot in the garage, in the cool stairwell or, even better, in the fridge with a sand / garden soil mix, where the temperature is constant and the seeds often germinate. After germination, keep the container cool and bright. When the seedlings are a few centimeters long, pimp them in potting soil and later pot them into small pots. In autumn, you can plant the cherry laurel then.