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The poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) has been booming again since December and adorns many a flat with its colored bracts. Incorrect watering is one of the most common causes when the tropical milkweed plant turns the leaves yellow and discards immediately after the festival. In most cases, it was meant too well, because the poinsettia, like most other spurge species, was rather limited in terms of water supply.
Many hobby gardeners conclude from the yellowing leaves that they have poured their poinsettia too little. They then keep it even wetter and aggravate the waterlogging problem. The physiological reason for the leaf shedding is the same in waterlogged conditions as in water shortage: The leaves are in both cases insufficiently supplied with water, because the fine roots rot in the dewy root ball and therefore can no longer absorb moisture.
Always pour poinsettias over the coaster
If possible, only water your poinsettia with room-warm, stale tap water. It is not as sensitive to limescale as the room azaleas (Rhododendron simsii), but if your tap water is very hard you should descale it or use rainwater.
One of the most important rules is: do not water your poinsettia until the surface of the pot bale feels dry. The best way to administer the water is through a saucer or a planter. The humus-rich soil attracts it via the capillary effect and soaks it fully. Pour water until it stops in the coaster. After about 20 minutes, then pour the excess water away from the outer container.
In the rest period pour very little
From April, the so-called rest period begins for the poinsettia. It should now be kept a little cooler at about 15 degrees and in the next six weeks just enough to be poured that the root ball does not dry out completely. Once a week, only put a small splash of water in the coaster or planter.
It usually takes six to eight weeks for the resting period to start until the colored bracts turn green. Then cut back your poinsettia vigorously and water it again more often.