Plant climbing roses in the tub - care and winterize

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Plant climbing roses in the tub - care and winterize: plant

With floral opulence climbing roses give facades, trellises and obelisks a breathtaking appearance. In order for the queen of the flowers to accomplish this masterpiece from the tub, it is necessary to observe certain specific premises. The following instructions are aimed at clearing out potential stumbling blocks in the cultivation of climbing roses in the planter for interested hobby gardeners. How to plant climbing roses in a tub, care for them professionally and make them winter-proof, are the following lines to the point.

The ideal bucket

As rootworms, roses anchor deep in the ground. Established at the site, the tap roots reach up to 100 centimeters deep into the ground. This feature implies that only a large bucket can provide sufficient space for the root ball of climbing roses. This is how the perfect planter should look like:
  • At least 40 centimeters high
  • Ideally tapering downwards
  • One or more floor openings as drainage
  • Light in color to reflect the sun's rays
The climbing roses develop a considerable weight over time, exclude planters made of plastic from the outset. Choose a frost-resistant, value-resistant material that guarantees stable stability. Since roses value a cool foot, buckets made of zinc or another metal are out of the question. Under summer sunlight, such materials heat up too much.


A central criterion for the successful cultivation of climbing roses in the tub is the choice of substrate. While the roses in the soil of the garden thrive excellently in clay soil, this is only partially true in the planter. Here the translucent, airy texture comes into focus, so that there is no waterlogging. Considered therefore a high-quality rose earth from the retail trade or a proprietary blend, which consists of a maximum of 50 percent clay, optimized by aggregates such as compost, sand, peat, perlite, coconut fibers, polystyrene beads and similar materials. To do the planting step by step:
  • Place the still-potted climbing rose with the root ball in water until no more air bubbles rise
  • The drainage cover with a 3-5 cm high drainage of grit, expanded clay, pebbles or potsherds
  • Spread an air- and water-permeable fleece over it so that the material is not clogged with earth crumbs
  • Fill a first layer of substrate, pot the rose, plant it in the middle and water it
  • The finish should end up about 5 cm deep in the ground
Careful hobby gardeners consider a pouring rim to prevent overflowing water.
Tip: If climbing roses in the bucket are placed on a plant roller from the very beginning, this measure creates flexible mobility even with increasing weight.
Trellis and untying

climbing roses

Climbing roses have no adhesive organs, so they do not self-elevate. It therefore requires a climbing aid to fix the long rose shoots on it. Cultivated in the bucket, creative hobby gardeners are offered a wide range of possible climbing aids. The following overview may serve the inspiration on the way to the individual solution for your green Reich:
  • In the bucket integrated pillar, a pyramid or an obelisk
  • Placed in front of a house wall with a wooden scaffolding or tension wire
  • Situated in front of a pergola or arbor
  • Positioned at the foot of a rose arch
Suitable fastening materials are available in abundance from specialist dealers. Excellent is binding material that does not cut into the plant tissue and is almost invisible thanks to green color on the tendrils. For the tying itself, the top priority is to arrange the climbing rose airily in order to prevent fungal infections. In addition, the horizontal guidance of the side shoots promises a particularly rich flowering.


Climbing roses favor a sunny and at the same time airy location. As much as the noble flowers would like to catch every ray of sunshine, they do not want to be exposed to jamming heat in front of a wind-protected southern wall. In general, roses appreciate a care that is based on balance. This applies in particular to the water and nutrient supply:
  • Keep the substrate slightly damp at all times
  • Even short-term waterlogging has fatal consequences
  • Allow the potting soil to dry between the waterings
  • From April to mid-July administer organic liquid fertilizer
The nutrient supply of climbing roses in the tub takes place only with organic preparations. Too much of a risk of over-fertilization when using mineral blue grain or rose fertilizer. Long-term fertilizer in stick or cone form here a realistic variant, because they deliver their active ingredients only gradually, so it can not come to an overdose.

To cut

A mainstay in the proper care of climbing roses is the regular pruning. This measure regulates the growth of the long shoots, so that they thrive in a compact and flowery rich. The ideal time for the cut is in the late winter, just before the new budding. How to do it right:
  • All dead wood and stunted branches at the base caps
  • Cut off frozen or hail-damaged shoot tips
  • Cut out growing and inward tendrils from the shape
  • Consistently cut out plant parts infected by diseases or pests
  • One-year Rosenzweige do not intersect, but untie at the Rankhilfe
  • Cut back older tendrils if necessary, except for 3-4 eyes
Always use the rose scissors in a slightly inclined position just above a leaf knot. These sleeping eyes are well identifiable as small bumps on the bark. After the main cut took place in late winter, the summer cut care is limited to the regular cleaning of withered flowers and withered leaves. If the decorative rose hips are desired, however, faded umbels are not removed. Every wild drive that sprouts from the base will be torn off immediately.
Tip: If there are doubts about choosing the perfect time for the pruning, the beginning of the forsythia blooms gives the decisive signal.
Regardless of the natural hardiness of winter roses, some protection measures are required for climbing species and varieties in the tub. Already the choice of a large bucket contributes to the protection against frostbite, since here the root area freezes much more slowly. The following aspects should be explicitly considered, so that roses are prepared for the cold season:
  • Do not fertilize in the middle of July, so that the shoots mature
  • Ideally, place the bucket in front of a protective house wall
  • Cover the vessel with bubble wrap, jute or coconut mats
  • Pile the roots with leaves or cover with straw
Reed mats - placed in front of the climbing aid - keep frosty wind and stinging winter sun away from the rose tendrils. If possible, hang fir-sprigs in the climbing aids or burlap.
Tip: Designing the bucket with poplar foil before planting climbing roses creates effective protection against winter frost in advance.

Pouring at Kahlfrost

In addition to adequate winter protection, adequate water supply plays a key role. Experience has shown that climbing roses in the tub are more frequently threatened by drought stress during the cold season than during the summer. Cause is a special weather with the name Kahlfrost. If frosty temperatures prevail, while the snow is absent, no water reaches the roots of the rose in the frozen substrate. Therefore, pour on a frost-free day, but never with warmed-up water.
ConclusionClimbing roses also reach breathtaking dimensions in the bucket as they cover their trellises with dense flower carpets. In order for the queen of the flowers to develop the floral splendor in perfection, different premises must be taken into account. Already the choice of a sufficiently large planter is important. Creeping roses are planted in a particularly airy and at the same time structurally stable substrate. The supply of water and nutrients requires a special instinct, because balance is required here. A central care aspect is the professional pruning, which should not be missed in any year. If you give special attention to prudent winter protection, the climbing roses will do their best for many years.

Video Board: Growing Roses : How to Plant Climbing Roses.

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