Climbing zucchini: planting, care and ideas for zucchini-climbing aids


The Content Of The Article:

Climbing zucchini: planting, care and ideas for zucchini-climbing aids: ideas

Climbing zucchini are ideal for space-saving vegetable cultivation - but they also need plenty of nutrients and plenty of water. The cost of care should therefore not be underestimated. How it can be simpler and what kind of climbing aids are suitable, interested in here as well as everything worth knowing, from siting to harvest.

Location

Climbing zucchini thrive well in sunny to partially shaded spots. It should be noted that it can reach a height of up to two meters, depending on the selected variety. Therefore, there should be enough space at the top. It is recommended to plant at least two climbing zucchini. This benefits the yield of both plants.
Tip: To stabilize the proximity to a wall or wall or a sturdy and stable trellis help is recommended.

substratum

Permeable, moderately water-storing and nutrient-rich should be the substrate for the climbing zucchini. Well suited as a basis are:
  • garden soil
  • compost
  • potting soil
  • vegetable soil
For enrichment with the necessary nutrients, well-rotted compost can be added, pre-fertilized soil used or a slow-release fertilizer mixed in.

sowing

The climbing zucchini can be sown between April and June. Pre-germination in the house is already possible from March. It depends on the following steps:

1. As a substrate, cultivation soil is used, with which the seeds are covered only slightly.

2. The substrate is kept slightly moist throughout.

3. Germination is fastest when the planter is in a bright place at temperatures between 18 and 25° C. Well suited, for example, a windowsill, which is free of drafts.

4. Once the young plants have four leaves, they may be repotted in the substrate described above and transferred to the outdoors. However, only on frost-free, warm days. Is nocturnal still to expect cold spells, such as the icy saint, the plants should be returned to the house. A plantation in the field is possible, as soon as the temperatures do not fall below 10 to 15° C at night.

plants

zucchini

As an alternative to your own sowing, the climbing zucchini can also be purchased as a young plant. These cost a bit more, but also require significantly less effort. Even with them, however, that protection against late frost is required. The plantation in the field should therefore take place only in late May or early June. With the bucket culture and corresponding daytime temperatures, the plants can be put outdoors and are returned to the house when the temperatures drop.

to water

The climbing zucchini grows as well as their broad-growing relatives very fast and therefore needs plenty of water due to the sunny location. Much of the liquid is also released through the large leaves. Especially at locations on the south side, many hours of sunshine or high temperatures, must be poured daily. In addition to the use of soft, low-calcium water, it is important to pour from below.
The leaves of the climbing zucchini should not be wetted during the watering, as this quickly leads to burns and discoloration. The watering can is therefore placed either just above the ground or it can be used as a funnel a casting aid. Waterlogging is also urgently to avoid with the moisture-loving zucchini.

Fertilize

The climbing zucchini are heavy eaters and therefore need large amounts of nutrients. Therefore, on the one hand, it is important to mix compost or fertilizer into the substrate at the time of planting and, on the other hand, to repeat the fertilization if necessary. The second nutrient supply can wait two to three months for both compost and long-term fertilizer. It is important to water the plants well after this measure. This ensures an even distribution of nutrients and prevents chemical burns to the roots.

Trellises

The climbing zucchini can reach heights between 60 and 200 centimeters, depending on the selected variety. You therefore need appropriate climbing aids. Due to the large and sometimes heavy fruits, the trellises should be stable and robust. In addition to the nature of the accessibility of the plants is important. The fruit-bearing shoots should be easily accessible from at least two sides. Otherwise, not only will the harvest be difficult, but the aeration of the shoots and leaves will be restricted as well. This, in turn, may increase the risk of pest and disease infestation.
Depending on the location and planting in the field or container culture, the following trellises may prove suitable:
wire mesh
Grids made of wire are inexpensive and can be relatively easily bend and cut - so adapt to local conditions.However, stable varieties should be chosen so that the heavy courgettes do not lead to unintended deformation.
ropes
Wire or rope - tight ropes can also be adjusted wonderfully. However, they are only suitable for locations that are at least partially covered, so for example, balcony or terrace. For stable attachment of shoots, three ropes should be used per plant.
trellisesMade of wood or plastic, trellises are traditional trellis aids and also suitable for climbing zucchini. However, plants and fruits are usually only accessible from one side. Those who want to prevent this, should direct the shoots early on the back of the trellis. For this, the shoots are carefully guided through the openings.
rodsThey are simple, easy to put into the ground and allow free access to the courgettes from all sides. In order for the bars to serve as a stable climbing aid, at least two to three bars made of sturdy plastic, bamboo or metal should be used per climbing zucchini.
Tip: In addition to the type and the material of the climbing aids, it also depends on the attachment of the shoots in the climbing zucchini. Suitable for this are bast, string, wire but also planting clips. Because even if the plant itself can cling to the trellises or rods, provide the additional fixations for protection and better grip in wind and storms.

bucket Culture

zucchini

The climbing zucchini is also suitable for the bucket culture. It can even be pulled on the balcony. However, some attention must be paid to this type of culture:
volumeThe planter should have a volume of at least ten liters. Smaller buckets not only provide insufficient stability, but also increase the maintenance effort considerably. The larger the planter, the easier it will be.
WaterIn a bucket, the climbing zucchini can not provide itself so well with water, as in the field. As a result, it must be poured more frequently. On very hot days, it may even be necessary to water in the morning and in the evening. At the same time, waterlogging is urgently to be prevented. A shallow drainage layer or the absence of a planter can ensure this.
FertilizeAs the climbing cucumbers in the tub are less substrate and therefore less nutrients available, the fertilization in the culture in a planter becomes more important. Suitable means are small amounts of compost, pond water, vegetable manure and vegetable fertilizer, which are given once a month until harvest.

blend

The one-year climbing zucchini does not need a blend. Only in case of infestation with pests or infection by viruses or fungi should the affected leaves and shoots be cut off. For this a sharp knife or a sharp pair of scissors is used. The blades of the cutting tools are disinfected before and after use to prevent transmission of pests or germs.

blossom

The climbing zucchini forms flowers relatively quickly. The flowers can be female and male and are edible in any case. If you want to harvest them and use them in the salad or fill, fry or bake them, you should pay attention to the following points:
Male flowers
They will produce no fruit and have a simple stem without thickening. Thus, the male flowers are easy to recognize and can be harvested without sacrificing the yield.
Female flowers
Female flowers should remain on the plant, as they produce the fruits. Directly behind the flower a noticeable thickening is recognizable on the stem.
harvest time
In order for the female flowers to be fertilized, they require the immediate proximity to male flowers. The male flowers should therefore not be removed immediately when the buds open. It is better to wait a few days so that the pollen can reach the pistils of the female flowers. If you do not want to do without insect fertilization, you can do it yourself with a brush.

harvest

Zucchini - Cucurbita pepo

The harvest of the climbing zucchini can start as soon as the fruits have reached the appropriate size. When this time has come, in turn, depends on the chosen species. As a rule, a length of 15 to 25 centimeters should be achieved. If they become significantly longer and thicker, the following problems may occur:
  • Fruits become dry and partly woody
  • the risk of burst fruits increases
  • the plant or shoots are loaded by the weight
It is therefore better to gradually harvest and not to leave the fruits on the climbing zucchini. With optimal care and suitable weather, the harvest season can extend into autumn.

Typical diseases and pests

The zucchini is relatively resistant with appropriate care, but the risk for pests and diseases still exists. Typical are:
snails
Snails mainly fall on young plants and young shoots and can cause considerable damage to the climbing zucchini.They should therefore be removed immediately at sighting. Slug pellets or snail traps can also be helpful.
aphids
Although aphids do not seem particularly threatening, they can cause damage to the climbing acacia trees, lead to curled and deformed leaves and shoots, and thus also affect the yield. If the pests themselves attack the plant, a greasy black coating will be visible or the deformations mentioned should be taken immediately appropriate countermeasures.
This includes:
  • the targeted spreading of ladybirds as natural predators
  • spraying with pesticides from the market
  • Spraying with nettle sauce
mildew
Mildew is noticeable by white spots and deposits on the leaves. It weakens the plant and can therefore be detrimental to the yield. The following means and measures are effective:
  • remove all severely affected leaves and shoots
  • Use pesticides against fungi
  • Use a mixture of nine to ten parts of fresh whole milk and one part of water to repeatedly spray the zucchini

Zucchini - Cucurbita pepo

If the decision on the solution of milk and water, it should act for half an hour and then rinsed with clean water. The application is to be sprayed until the disappearance of mildew every three days.
Yellow mosaic virus
This viral infection is indicated by several symptoms. including:
  • yellow spots on the leaves
  • weaker growth
  • stunted leaves and shoots
  • malformed fruits
Left untreated, the yellow mosaic virus causes the plant to die. Prevention is possible by preventing or quickly eliminating aphid infestation because the pests can transmit the virus. Also, the choice of resistant climbing zucchini varieties can prevent the disease.

Typical care mistakes

Apart from the frequent watering and a coordinated fertilization, the climbing zucchini is relatively easy to maintain and resistant. Errors in culture, however, can make the plant more susceptible to diseases and pests or, if infested, can cause significant damage more quickly. Proper care is therefore one of the preventive measures against infections and parasites. Above all the following care mistakes should urgently be avoided:
  • too little fluid intake
  • Waterlogging due to lack of drainage or non-existent runoff
  • too little nutrient intake
  • shady location
  • no protection against frost
If there is reduced growth, discoloration or even the plant is withering, the site conditions and culture should be checked accordingly.

Video Board: Garden Trellis - How to Make the Best Supports for Climbing Vegetables.

© 2019 EN.Garden-Landscape.com. All Rights Reserved. When Copying Materials - The Reverse Link Is Required | Site Map