Beech hedge - plants, care and cutting

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A beech hedge keeps a close look in the summer, but turns into an eye-catcher in the fall. Brightly colored leaves remain mostly preserved over the winter and thus set a colorful accent in the gray season. Already the look alone is a convincing factor. But the care as well.
The beech hedge has a lot to offer. So it impresses with fast growth, dense foliage and a play of colors that seeks its peers. Yellow, orange and almost purple make fall leaves an attractive jewelery that can last until next spring. Also on the side of the claims can be a red beech hedge but points, because they do not need much to develop their beauty. Of course, some claims still have to be met.
Sun or shade - the red beech hedge is the same, it thrives in almost every location. But if you want the enchanting play of colors survives the winter, the red beech hedge should provide a somewhat sheltered location. The space requirement is very variable. Although cultivated as a tree, the European beech could climb amazing heights, it is pulled as a hedge and blended regularly cut their scope but within the desired limits.
The ideal substrate for a beech hedge is loose and well-drained, but can also store water. Well suited is a combination of garden soil, loam and durchterottetem compost. If the soil tends to solidify or densify, some more sand can be added. Tip: Lime-containing substrate with a neutral to slightly basic pH makes the beech hedge particularly well-suited.
When planting the beech hedge some effort may be necessary under certain circumstances. The living screen guards reward the effort but quickly.
The European beech needs a profoundly loose soil. Before planting, the location should therefore be well dug up. The triple height of a root ball can serve as orientation.

  • Instead of a planting hole, ideally a trench is excavated which is at least twice as wide as a single root ball.
  • The fourfold width would be optimal and at the same time reduces the care required.
  • The substrate mixture described above is introduced into the excavated planting channel.
  • The young plants are used at a distance of about half a meter each.
  • Afterwards, the free spaces are filled with substrate, the soil is tapped and moistened well.
The best time for planting the beech hedge is in late spring, in a frost-free phase. In general, April is suitable for planting. Tip: If the sprouts of the young plants are already long and narrow, a slight blending should take place immediately after insertion. This promotes a denser growth.
to water
The red beech hedge tolerates no extremes, so neither dryness nor moisture. Especially at the beginning should therefore be cast well. This means that watering is always carried out when the uppermost layer of the soil has dried out. The roots should be flooded only when it is very hot and dry. Apart from that, the beech hedge is easy and easy to care for. The water may be hard, so contain a lot of lime - the wood does not take it badly.
During the first year, the beech hedge can do without additional nutrients. Starting in the early spring of the second year, however, fertilizer should be used for a healthy and strong growth. Are suitable:
  • Ripe compost
  • Horn shavings or horn meal
  • Long-term fertilizer for ornamental shrubs
  • blue corn
The fertilizers are easily incorporated into the surface of the substrate. After that, plenty of water must be poured to spread and dilute the nutrients more evenly. If this measure is forgotten, chemical burns can occur. The fertilizer should be given every six to eight weeks, but not later than August. This early end of the additional supply is important because the red beech can adjust sufficiently to the cool season. Later added nutrients can usually no longer absorb the hedge or it is disturbed in their growth break and shows weak shoots that freeze in the winter.
To cut
The beech hedge is well cut-tolerant and should be trimmed and sown twice a year to develop dense and appealingly branched growth. The first appointment is March, before the plants show a new bud. After mild winters, the time should be earlier. It is only important that a frost-free day is chosen. The second blending can take place between July and August. This also serves to create a dense shape. Tip: Damaged twigs or shoots, which protrude from the basic form of the red beech hedge, can and should be removed all year round.
If you want to extend the beech hedge, you can do so by multiplying the already existing plants. The easiest way to do this is rooting cuttings.
  • Perennial head cuttings with a length of about ten centimeters are cut by the red beech.
  • The lower section of each cuttings is freed from the leaves.
  • The shoots are placed in a pot of potting soil and initially placed protected.
  • The young plants are watered as soon as the substrate dries superficially.
After about two months, the cuttings themselves should show new leaves. If these are vigorous, they may be planted at their final location.
The beech hedge does not need any winter protection. Only if it was planted very late in the year and therefore had not enough time to grow and harden, it should be covered with garden fleece, mats or blankets easily. An additional layer of straw and brushwood on the ground isolates the roots and thus helps to get a better start in spring.
Typical diseases and pests
On the side of the pests, aphids and gall bladders are occasionally found in the beech hedge. Against aphids natural predators, such as ladybugs and lacewings should be used. Also, the red beech hedge is not immune to fungal infections. However, these only come about if the plants are too dry or too wet. The right watering prevents them from doing so. Once broken, all affected parts of the plant should be removed and the beech hedge treated with appropriate fungicides. This is the only way to prevent gaps in the grown fence.
Frequently asked questions
  • Why does the beech bear no fruit? - Until the red beech hedge the fruits, so-called beechnuts, can be found, pass more than a few years. In fact, it takes two to four decades for the plants to mature sufficiently. If young red beech bear no fruit, that is completely normal. If the development of the beechnuts but suddenly stops, it is often a serious parasitic infestation or infection with fungal spores. In any case, a treatment is necessary.
  • Can the beech hedge be implemented? - Until about the third year it is still possible to let the beech hedge hike. But only if the roots are harmed as little as possible. Thereafter, a conversion may still be possible, but the success is often limited.
Worth knowing about red beeches hedges soon
  • The beech hedge prefers a sunny to half shady location.
  • The floor should be shaded if possible. In addition, it must be fresh, calcareous and profound.
  • The subsoil may contain clay. However, he must not tend to waterlogging.
  • Beech trees are sensitive to late frosts, changes in groundwater levels and flooding.
  • The plants need a relatively high amount of water, especially in the summer of the planting year.
  • We recommend a specific fertilization of the hedge in the spring in order to promote budding.
  • Organic fertilizer is particularly good, but also organic-mineral fertilizer is suitable.
  • The planting distance for a dense hedge should be about 80 cm.
A beech hedge should be cut in early spring, before the foliage. In July, a re-cut can be made. The hedge should be cut narrower at the top than at the bottom so that light gets to all places.
Beech hawks are often attacked by mealybugs. Often only the chemical club helps. It makes sense to have a propulsion system. This eliminates the overwintering plant pests so that they can not multiply at all. However, new populations can occur. In the specialized trade there are purely vegetable products that can be used for spraying. They do not harm the birds breeding in the hedges and their offspring.
Special features when cutting the beech hedge
  • Beech-tree hedges, which are said to become narrow and tall, must be trimmed more often, but more carefully
  • Because the cut reduces the height growth, but stimulates the broad growth
  • Frequent cutting will also keep root growth at bay when adjacent paving surfaces are threatened
  • The usual spring cut in the dormancy requires minimum temperatures of -5° C
  • Ruling in the months of January to March colder temperatures, the cut should be postponed to the end of the season
  • Then the beech hedge can be pruned towards the end of July, so that the new shoots stimulated by the cut can ripen until winter
  • A neglected beech hedge tolerates quite a radical cut, which goes down to the old wood and builds up the shape completely new
  • However, this corrective cut requires a lot of judgment and perhaps a temporal distribution of the cutting measures
  • This will prevent rigorous cutting that makes the hedge look mutilated for a long time
Red beech hedge or hornbeam hedge: a decision aid
  • In contrast to the hornbeams, the bee bees usually keep the fall foliage better, they usually provide protection deep into the winter
  • They do so almost a month later than the hornbeams and usually form only in early June again an opaque hedge
  • Only beech trees (Fagus sylvatica) really belong to the beeches, hornbeams (Carpinus betulus) belong to the birch family
  • Beech trees are usually much more demanding than birch trees, including the beech
  • Therefore, you should prefer to fall back on a sandy hornbeam beech, red beech love higher quality soils
  • Hornbeam hedges are also more likely to be used in late frost situations, and beech trees can suffer greatly from late frosts
Even if you have to find out about all sorts of features - especially with the inclusion of hornbeams in the search for the optimal hedge plant, you can be sure that one of the trees fits so well in your garden that you later with a beautiful lush green hedge around her Property will be rewarded.

Video Board: Trimming a beech hedge.

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