The Content Of The Article:
- When is the best time?
- Instructions for pruning
- Instructions for conservation cut
- Instructions for the rejuvenation cut
- Which mistakes should be avoided?
- Once-flowering climbing roses
- More flowering climbing roses
Depending on the species, you can cut the climbing roses only once or several times a year. A proper cut is important for the care and crucial for a beautiful growth, a lush growth and a handsome flowering. Even young plants should not be pruned, so that they can develop undisturbed.
When is the best time?Many gardeners, in the face of withered roses, would like to start pruning in autumn to prune the plant and bring it to the desired shape. However, this time is fatal for the plants, because in this phase, the much needed nutrients from the leaves flow back into the shoots. In this way, the roses strengthen for the winter and increase their resilience against the impending temperature drops. As a guide to the right time, the forsythia blossom provides a useful clue. If their yellow flowers start to sprout, then the climbing roses can be cut without danger.
- Best time for the pruning is the beginning of spring
- Pruning cut after the last frosty nights
- In mild winter conditions prune already in late winter
- Cut back climbing roses only from the second or even third year of life
- If possible, do not prune one year old shoots
- Cut once-flowering climbing roses only once a year
- Shorten more flowering varieties up to three times a year
- Never reach for the rose scissors in autumn
- Autumn cut only weakens the roses unnecessarily
Instructions for pruning
In addition, a regularly inserted cut prevents the shoots from becoming longer and therefore weaker. In addition, the structure of the flowers is promoted with a correct cut and the roses develop significantly more foliage.
- Only shorten the two- to three-year shoots
- Leave 3-5 eyes on the rose shoot
- Remove old shoots in favor of young shoots
- Cut off sick shoots on time
- Always apply the cutback at a slight angle
- Cut about 5 mm above the knot
- Always trim over the outward eye
- Attach scissors as close to the trunk as possible
- Ideal are special rose scissors
- Disinfect and sharpen tool well before use
Instructions for conservation cutIn this pruning, the goal is to maintain the healthy and vital properties of climbing roses. The concentration is based on the optimization of the existing growth conditions to promote a beautiful flowering. The winter and its extreme weather conditions strain the plant and often cause damage. Defective plant parts are often the cause of a beginning Verkahlung or even aging, which leads to an unsightly growth.
The conservation section is a good time to check the climbing artist for a possible fungal infection or pest infestation. If there are already the first small signs of it, then the affected ones are generous to remove the plant parts. Only in this way can a further spread be prevented and nipped in the bud.
- Long-lasting frost and heavy hail often causes damaged shoots
- Remove damaged shoots generously
- Cut dried and old branches directly at the base
- Cut off severely growing branches
- To very much inward growing shoots clip
- Remove criss-crossed branches
- Cut only perennial rose shoots
- Two- and three-year-old branches on 3-5 eyes trim
- Do not prune one-year branches
- Tie these up with a climbing aid
- Do not dispose of infected or infested clippings on the compost
- Dispose of with household waste to prevent further spread
Instructions for the rejuvenation cut
Only in this way does the plant put its power into young shoots and not into the growth of the old branches. Otherwise, the older branches stretch more and more in the length and are much too thin. The growth is thus uneven and the flower is formed only miserable. The result is aging plants that can only bloom on the tips of the branches. In addition, the roses are weakened without pruning and are therefore more susceptible to pests and fungus.
- Cut half of the perennial branches
- Shorten to about 30 cm above the ground
- Too long stretched out and old branches trim
- Remove sick and damaged branches
- Shorten side and short shoots down to 2 eyes
- The following year, cut off the rest of the old branches
- Rejuvenation cut especially in neglected plants perform
- At the same time remove wild shoots
- Carefully expose rhizome
- Demolish water shoots with a courageous grip
Which mistakes should be avoided?Improper cutting will weaken the plant's immune system and make it more susceptible to disease and pest infestation. In addition, the right time plays an important role, this depends on the type of rose and should be learned before pruning. Since the plants have no anchoring roots, they use their thorns as climbing aids.
If there is not enough grip, the branches can break off quickly in strong winds. In addition, roses need their rest at the end of the year to recharge important energies.
- Be sure to avoid stunted stumps
- Only prune if the pruning is absolutely necessary
- Do not trim young plants in the first year
- Choose suitable ground, not all seats are suitable
- Do not forget stable trellis aids
- Avoid exposed locations with a lot of wind
- Do not use dirty tools, disinfect with alcohol
- Do not use blunt rose scissors, sharpen before use
- Never prune in the fall
- Do not leave bloated plant parts on the plant for too long
Once-flowering climbing roses
Among the once-flowering varieties include most rambler roses. These have a particularly strong growth and can reach heights of more than six meters. Therefore, these varieties are ideal for house walls and tall trees. But even on a rose palate, the rambler roses look very different with their flat growth, in which the flowers are very beautiful.
Since usually the lower plant parts are leafy, no bald and unsightly spots develop. These properties are ideal for applying a privacy screen. For very tall specimens pruning in summer poses a safety risk and reduces flower formation.
- In spring, a small and shaping basic section is sufficient
- Do not blossom on the neuter
- Only from the perennial long shoots will flowering side shoots develop in the following year
- Cut back only flowering climbing roses after flowering
- To shorten most of the main shoots that already blossomed
- Remove too weak young shoots and faded plant parts
- Tie all other branches to the trellis
- Define the desired shape
- Loosely distribute shoots upwards
- Always ensure a uniform arrangement
- Arrange rose shoots like a fan
More flowering climbing rosesMore flowering varieties bloom several times throughout the year. On the other hand, they grow much weaker than single-flowered varieties, because they need a lot of energy for the constant development of the flower. More flowering climbers can reach heights of two to three meters, so they are ideal for putting on pergolas and rosebuds.
The regular plastering of the plants increases the flowering joy in more flowering roses. When exactly the various cutbacks are to be set, depends on the weather conditions and the flowering joy of the plant. In this case, the gardener should regularly keep an eye on the climbing roses.
- Both after the first flowering and summer cutting
- Pruning in the summer increases the flower power
- Start summer cut more carefully
- Cut off withered flowers of the shorter side shoots
- Also remove blooming flower tufts
- Cut close to the first, fully developed leaf below the flower
- In this way, the branches form new flowering plants in the same summer
- Integrate too many trained young shoots between the already flowering branches
- Shorten only extremely long shoots in autumn
- These can break off due to snow and strong gusts of wind