Cutting gooseberries - the perfect time to cut back

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Cutting gooseberries - the perfect time to cut back: gooseberries

Experienced gooseberry gardeners argue for late winter as the best cut date for several reasons. During the foliage-free period there is a clear view of the network of old and young tendrils. In addition, you can see the positions of the thorns better. Nevertheless, a summer cut in the advanced age of a gooseberry can be useful to give the young shoots more freedom to grow or contain diseases. Therefore, the time window for professional pruning of gooseberries opens twice a year.

When is the ideal time?

When you should reach for the scissors, summarize the following overview:
  • Education and Conservation Cut: End of February to beginning of March
  • Summer cut: immediately after harvest
  • Rejuvenation cut: in late winter
For the winter season, please choose a frost-free day. Cutting measures below the freezing point impair wound healing and cause frost damage to the cuts. Ideally, you should wait one day for the summer cut with dry weather, because a cut into wet wood should be avoided.

Why is a cutback wise?

Between the fruit quality of uncut and cut gooseberries lie worlds. Characteristic of the berry bush is that it develops its optimal earning power on the one- and two-year-old shoots. On the other hand, from the third to the fourth year on older rods, only fruits of inferior quality are thriving.
Regular slicing paves the way for the growth of young shoots that give you premium juicy-sweet gooseberry enjoyment for one to two years. At the same time you bring order to the thorny shrub, which greatly simplifies the harvest. Last but not least, you keep the spread of powdery mildew under control with annual cutting measures.

Instructions for the educational cut as a shrub

Cutting gooseberries

On a freshly planted gooseberry shrub, the cutting measures in the first two years pursue the goal of a fruitful education. The aim is a skeleton of 4 to 6 strong rods on which the fruits thrive. In the first year, gooseberries do not yet have the robust frost resistance of an adult plant. The best time for the educational cut is therefore during the first two weeks of March, when severe frosts are no longer to be expected. How to cut correctly:
  • Among all shoots select the 4, 5 or 6 strongest specimens
  • Cut them back by a third or a half
  • Cut off all other rods near the ground
Please make sure that no stubs remain when removing unnecessary shoots. Branch stubs are a breeding ground for fungal spores and other pathogens. By dusting the cuts with rock flour or charcoal ash, disinfect the danger spots in a natural way.
After this pattern you proceed again the following year. If your gooseberries turn out to be correspondingly strong, you can increase the number of fruited to 8-10 in the second year. Supernumerary and weak shoots cut off again at the beginning. This education is completed and leads to the maintenance phase.
When it actually goes, depends on variety, location quality and weather conditions. Experience has shown that education does not take more than three years. At the earliest from this point on, a complementary summer cut proves to be advantageous, because a stock of worn, old shoots is accumulating rapidly.

Instructions for the conservation cut as a shrub

On gooseberries, the cutting education leads to a continuous preservation with an uncomplicated cut. If you act according to the motto 'New replaced old', you can not go wrong. How to proceed professionally:
  • Cut out deadwood and weak shoots
  • Cut back inward branches or remove completely
  • Cut off old rods at the age of three and older near the ground
  • At too narrow branches derive the older on the younger shoot
  • At this year's and last year's wood black discolored tips cut into the healthy area
  • Do not leave more than 4 to a maximum of 10 fruit rods
  • Shorten one to one-third of too long fruit rods

Cutting gooseberries

On the basis of optical characteristics, you can distinguish old and young shoots from gooseberry bushes. An old branch shows dark, richly branched wood, often covered in moss. A fresh shoot can be seen in light wood and straight, unbranched growth. Please note that not every older shoot has to yield completely. Should you be short of sufficient one- and two-year young shoots in an unfavorable year, cut a three- or four-year-old branch. Cut this back to two or three eyes. Until next year, young, productive wood is driving here.
Optionally, do the conservation cut in one pass in late February / early March. The advantage for your gooseberry is a step by step approach. Light the shrub already in the summer after the harvest, promote the growth of young shoots. Because the summer cut optimizes access to light, the one- and two-year-old rods develop more quickly and vigorously by winter than when they stand in the shade of worn branches.
Tip: Do not you want to rely on optical features to distinguish old from young shoots? Then simply mark the rods with small rings in different colors.

Rejuvenate the gooseberry - How to do it right

Neglected gooseberry bushes present themselves as a tangled web of many old and few young branches. In addition, the quality of the gooseberries leaves much to be desired, because the fruits are small and sour. After a spirited rejuvenation cut, a withered shrub will regenerate and grow with renewed vigor. The cut is very easy. Choose the three prospective shoots as the backbone. All other branches cut off from the floor.
Then fertilize generously with compost and horn shavings or berry fertilizer. If the effort is rewarded with a summer sprout, from now on you can cut the tapered gooseberry bush according to this manual. If there is no reaction, the plant should be completely replaced.
Note: Did you know that you can use a lopper to minimize painful scratches caused by the pointed spines? Thanks to the longer handles you can keep a sufficient distance to your fortified gooseberries when cutting the shoots. The sure instinct for the proper cut management is maintained.

Educate gooseberries to a high stem - That's how it works

Cutting gooseberries

As a high strain, gooseberries are decorative and less prickly at harvest. In the bed and tub, the classic fruit trees with stem and crown do not take up as much space as they do as a large shrub. How to raise a young gooseberry plant to a high stem, we explain here step by step:
  • Choose the most powerful impulse for the future tribe
  • Bind this central drive to a support rod with soft binding material
  • Cut off all other branches at the base
In the following years, you continuously guide the central drive up the bar. Consistently remove all vertically growing shoots because they compete with the trunk for nutrients and light. The increase in thickness of the center drive is promoted by the side shoots are cut off regularly.
Maintain this cut as well as the conduction on the rod until the stem has reached the desired height. However, do not use the scissors until the top is three to four leaves above the desired position of the crown. By capping the trunk tip, start the branching to the crown.
A shapely and high-yielding crown consists of 4 to 6 shoots in the first year. Cut them one-third or one-half so that they bear the first fruit in the summer. All other side shoots along the trunk cut off. Depending on the carrying capacity of the middle drive, the crown can be increased in subsequent years to up to 10 one- and two-year old rods.

Shaping and preservation cut on the high trunk - you should pay attention to this

So that a gooseberry as a high trunk preserves its shapely and productive crown, there is a form and maintenance cut every year on the care program. Please keep in mind that gooseberry high trunks are not suitable for a crown with elegantly hanging branches. If shoots lean to the ground, this is an unmistakable sign that their earning power is noticeably declining. When and how to properly cut gooseberries on the stem, the following summary summarizes:
  • Shorten hanged, drained branches by half in early spring
  • Cut away old shoots with dark, mossy wood at the base
  • Stagnant, vigorous young wood of the last two years can not be cut back or cut back by a maximum of one third
  • Remove side shoots below the crown from the trunk
  • Cutting off steeply up-facing competing engines close to the ground

Cutting gooseberries

The result of the expert conservation cut is a light-flooded crown with one-year and two-year, strong rods. Older branches can be cut back down to two leaf nodes, so that fresh wood expels here. This always makes sense if you want a denser crown and do not grow enough young shoots. Please remove the support bar only when the trunk is strong enough to support the crown.
Tip: For gardening together with your children in the family garden the red gooseberry 'Larell' is ideal. The joy of gardening is not affected by painful scratches on the skin when pruning the tendrils, because this variety dispenses with the dreaded thorns.

Special case, pillar fruit - instructions from A for construction to Z for cutting back

Pear fruit is the ideal solution for growing gooseberries in the small garden.This variant in cultivation grows slimmer than a shrub. In contrast to the Hochstamm, which produces fruit only in the crown, the whole growth height is used on the fruit of the column fruit for the growth of fruit. To raise a young gooseberry shrub to the pillar fruit, proceed as follows in the construction section:
  • Fix the center drive to a support bar with ties
  • Cut off all other basal shoots
  • Side shoots in March of the first year not or only in the tips shorten
From the second year, cut the removed rods back on cones in late winter. To do this, place the scissors so that only two eyes remain on the branch. The last year's branches do not cut you, because this year the best fruits thrive here. After harvest, thoroughly clear the gooseberry column. On this occasion, remove unnecessary ground shoots to keep your gooseberries in the slender columnar shape.


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