The Content Of The Article:
- Sort out rotten dahlia tubers
- Store dahlia tubers dark and cool
- Check dahlia tubers in winter quarters
- Picture gallery: An overview of the dahlia classes
With the overwintering, wait until the foliage of dahlia withers. A few light frosty nights do not harm the plants, but the soil must not freeze to tuber depth. When digging up the plants, the soil should be as dry as possible, as it will dissolve more easily from the tubers.
First, cut the stems of the dahlias (left). Then the rhizomes can be carefully removed from the ground (right)
First cut all stems about a hand's breadth above the ground and then clear the root system of the dahlias with a grave fork. Before you do anything else, you should now mark each cleared plant with a label that indicates the variety name or at least the flower color. This important detail is often forgotten when hibernating - and next spring, the dahlia bed is a colorful mess, because you can not distinguish the many different varieties.
So that you can find the different varieties again next spring, the tubers should be labeled immediately after the excavation.
Sort out rotten dahlia tubers
Allow the cleared tubers to dry in a warm, frost-free place for a few days. Then they are freed from all larger adherent lumps and subjected to a critical examination: The damaged or rotten storage organs should sort and compost immediately - they would spoil anyway in winter storage. Only the healthy, uninjured dahlia tubers are stored.
If damaged or diseased tubers are particularly rare, valuable varieties, you may be able to salvage them by cutting out the fouling sites and then sprinkling charcoal powder onto the interfaces for disinfection. In any case, store damaged storage organs separately so that the putrefaction agents do not spread to the healthy tubers.
Store dahlia tubers dark and cool
The dahlia tubers are wintered in crates - separated into varieties or individually labeled
To properly overwinter the dahlias, coat the boxes with newspaper and then fill in a thin layer of gravel sand or a dry peat-sand mixture. Then lay out the first layer of dahlia tubers on it. Then cover the tubers completely with sand or the prepared substrate and then lay out the next layer.
The ideal winter storage for winter huts is a dark, dry basement room with temperatures around five degrees. It should not be much warmer, because otherwise the tubers will drive out in winter quarters.
Check dahlia tubers in winter quarters
Dahlia tubers tend to rot especially in warmer, damp cellars. Moldy grass often forms on injured areas. Even small fouling spots, which have already formed in the soil, overlooks one easily during storage. Check your stored dahlias every three to four weeks and sort out any tubers that are not flawless.
Picture gallery: An overview of the dahlia classes
Start photo gallery
Dahlia classes (12)
Class 1: Single flowering dahlias, here the variety 'Carnelian'
2nd class: Anemone-flowered dahlias, here the variety 'Phantom'
3rd class: Collar Dahlias, here the variety 'Stelik'
4th class: Water lily dahlia, here the variety 'Sam Hopkins'
5th class: Decorative dahlias, here the variety 'Maya'
6th grade: ball dahlia, here the variety 'Jamanda'
7th grade: Pompon dahlia, here the variety 'Buttercap'
8. Class: Cactus Dahlias, here the variety 'Jessica'
9th Class: Semi-Cactus Dahlias, here the variety 'Golden Volcano'
10th grade: deer antler dahlias, here the variety 'Anna Marie'
Some varieties belong to none of their own class - including the duplex dahlias, as here the variety 'Rotkäppchen'
Classes 12 and 13: There are simple orchid-flowered dahlias and filled orchid-flowered dahlias. The petals of the simple varieties are heavily curled about two-thirds, the petals of the filled varieties are bent from the longitudinal side either up or down. Here is the simply filled orchid-flowered dahlia 'Tahoma Hope'