The Content Of The Article:
- Ground coverers need competitive partners
- Ground cover for different locations
- Remove weeds carefully before planting
- Plant groundcover
- Pruning in late winter
If you think of easy-care groundcover, you will first come across classics like Cotoneaster and Co. But there are many alternatives that are in no way inferior in terms of easy care. The term ground cover is actually a pretty irreverent and technical term. Not only do the plants form dense green carpets, they also have a lot to offer visually with their flowers and decorative leaves.
The groundcovering plants are from the botanical point of view not a uniform group, because this includes beside many perennials also some shrubs and bushes. All spread over the area over time - on root extensions, rhizomes, rooting roots, kindling and partly also by sowing. The more "unscrupulous" they do, the better they usually suppress the weeds as well.
Ground coverers need competitive partners
Over time, the roots of some ground cover become so dense that not only the wild plants, but also other garden shrubs and even shrubs have the disadvantage: they are not able to withstand the high root pressure of these ground cover. For this reason, one should either integrate only highly competitive plants into a groundcover area or demarcate the tree slices of low-competition solitaire shrubs such as the witch hazel with a root barrier. By the way, most bulbous flowers prove to be relatively insensitive - they also live in densely rooted soil at the natural site.
Ground cover for different locations
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Groundcover with flowers
Small Periwinkle (Vinca minor, here the variety 'Alba') is a wintergreen groundcover for humus rich soils in semi-shade
Steinsame (Buglossoides purpurocaerulea) is robust, endures strong root competition and tolerates even sunnier locations
Waldsteinia (Waldsteinia ternata) forms a dense network of roots through short foothills, which hardly penetrates a weed
Cambridge Cranesbill (Geranium x cantabrigiense, here the variety 'Karmina') forms dense carpets in sun and partial shade
Ground cover roses are ideal for colorfully greening areas in full sun. However, they do not reliably suppress the weeds
Barbed sprigs (Acaena) tolerate full, dry soils and form flat, dense cushions. Especially the autumnal seeds are very decorative
Roman grass chamomile (Anthemis) is a fragrant, relatively firm ground cover for full sun
Lady's mantis (Alchemilla mollis) has probably the greatest location tolerance of all ground cover: it thrives in full sun and also in the shade. After flowering, pruning is recommended
Remove weeds carefully before planting
Anyone who creates a new ground cover should take time for the preparation of the soil: Above all, the rhizomes of root weeds such as greed and couch grass must be completely removed. The success of planting may depend on a small piece of rhizome, which was initially overlooked and not removed in time after expulsion. The covering of the bed area before planting with special mulch paper has proven itself. For the plants, cut small holes into them and then apply a layer of mulch. For the shade, bark mulch or compost are suitable, ground cover areas for sunny places are best covered thinly with lava chippings. The amount of plant needed per square meter depends not only on the size of the plant, but also on how fast the area should be dense: Anyone who clearly falls short of the numbers given by the nursery garden must plan more time for the weed control.
Loosen the soil thoroughly, removing all root weeds. Then lay out the ground cover with the pot and remove it just before planting. Then the area is thoroughly cast, fertilized with horn shavings and covered with a layer of bark compost about five centimeters high. If you place the ground cover in a mulch fleece, weeds hardly cause any problems - but many hobby gardeners reject the plastic. Biodegradable but not permanent is mulch paper. So that the ground covers can spread out, one covers the coverings after the plant with bark mulch.
The evergreen to evergreen species of the Elven flower (for example Epimedium rubrum, Epimedium perralchicum, Epimedium pinnatum, Epimedium 'Amber Queen') also offer a nice sight in the cold season. In order to make the new foliage and the delicate blossoms more noticeable in the spring, the plants are cut back near the ground with a hedge trimmer in time for the new shoot. They quickly form fresh leaves afterwards
Pruning in late winter
The old foliage of the winter-green Elfenblume (Epimedium) is often not very attractive in spring. With a hedge trimmer, you can simply cut off the old leaves carpet to promote the new budding. In other winter-green species, a pruning is in principle also possible, but usually not necessary. Only the shoots damaged by the frost - for example, the big male (Pachysandra) - should be removed in the late winter with scissors.