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A edge attachment is usually out of the question in a normally polluted garden path. Normal loads through wheelbarrow and the like, a well underbuilt garden path definitely withstands. Therefore, no edge attachment is needed. Here it looks more beautiful, if the way goes directly into the garden. Of course, you can also create a marginal fortification as a visual separation of path and garden.
Do you create a garden path or a roadway?
The correct planning of a garden path also includes the consideration of which loads this garden path should withstand. Most of the time you will come to the realization that you are actually creating different garden paths:
- If in front of the house is a piece of garden path, which is also to be driven by a car, a garage entrance or a courtyard entrance z. For example, this may be a "garden path" for you, but it has to endure considerable stress.
- If you want to furnish the terrace with the same surface as the garden path that leads away from it, and after the terrace slopes down, this is also a special case.
- For such sections or areas you need in any case an edge attachment.
- The main path through the garden is usually traveled, although only by a wheelbarrow, but fully loaded with earth can get quite a weight.
- If you also want to keep the garden path that you would like to use with the wheelbarrow as narrow as possible, then you should use an edge attachment so that you do not drive the wheelbarrow crooked and crooked at some point.
- If the garden path leads in a certain area through flat terrain, is not heavily loaded and the earth lets seep rain water quickly, you need no concrete edge attachment.
- You then have the choice: you can just lead the substructure slightly over the road so that the path can not tip over to the side, or you stabilize the margins with some concrete.
- Another variant, which is also conceivable for paths with surfaces with gravel or wood chips, is the introduction of a series of optically highlighted curbs.
- Border edging with concrete mortar and handwork: Some mortar is filled between the side stones or you lay the curb stones or the first row of paving in a proper mortar bed.
- The next option is to provide the side edges with a concrete backrest. They create a kind of sloping concrete boundary that starts under the stones and ends in the middle of the page.
- Such a back support holds even better if you place the first row additionally in a concrete bed.
- When dealing with heavily polluted sections of land or areas, you should cast in a number of special finishing stones on the sides (not to be confused with the only slightly stabilizing curbs for the lightly loaded garden path).
An edge attachment is necessary only when heavily loaded paths or retracts. Then one should consider a concrete edge attachment. If you want to be on the safe side, you can also surround the curbs of the pavement in concrete, which is not absolutely necessary.
Whether an edge attachment comes into consideration also depends on the time and money spent. With about 25-30 liters of concrete per meter, this fun can be expensive at large retractions and paths. In addition, this work requires a lot of time and patience.
Anyone planning such work should do so in the spring or fall, as the temperatures are most comfortable during those seasons.
Conclusion: For the garden path and easy retraction unnecessary. Special cases such as However, a garden with a lot of gradients or stairs should be considered. If you install steps in the garden with panels, you should prefer to attach them to the edge or even embed them in concrete, as these panels are particularly stressed.
Stairways and steps should also be in the next section, because they require a lot of attention. Here it is shown that setting in concrete is important.