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Budding pond owners have the choice: they can either choose the size and shape of their garden pond or use a preformed pond - a so-called ready pond. Especially for creative people, the self-designed and lined with pond liner variant seems to be the better choice at first glance. But it also has its drawbacks: The system is usually more complex, because you have to line the pond with protective fleece and foil and the film webs consuming to glue together - and it requires great care, so that the pond in the end is really tight. And even if successful, membrane ponds are more susceptible to leaks than the robust preformed ready-made ponds.
Another advantage of the ready-made pond is the already designed planting zones for the flat and deep-water vegetation. In the self-designed pond you have to terraced the well very precisely to achieve a correspondingly tiered structure.
The current range of ready-made pond basins ranges from the mini pond made of polyethylene (PE) with barely one square meter area to the more than twelve square meter basin made of glass fiber reinforced plastic (GRP). The most widespread are curved forms with plant niches in different depth zones. For modern, architecturally designed gardens there are also rectangular, round and oval pond basins in different sizes.
But the prefabricated pond also has a few drawbacks: Depending on their size, the pond basins are expensive to transport - they usually have to be delivered by truck or picked up with a large car trailer. Also, the installation is not without, because the pool must be installed just and rest well on the underbody at each point, so that it is sufficiently stable and can be entered safely. How to do this best, we explain here.
Step by step: How to properly install a prefabricated pond
The outline of the prefabricated pond is marked on the ground (left), then the pond pit is lifted (right)
In the first step, the outline of the pond basin with light sand on the turf freed, leveled ground are marked. If you apply a plummet to the various depth zones from below, the contours can be transferred very precisely to the ground.
When digging the pond pit, proceed step by step - according to the shape and depth of the individual pond zones. Make the pit about ten centimeters wider and deeper for each zone, so that there is enough leeway. From the finished pond pit all sharp stones and roots must be removed. The bottom of the various pond zones is filled up with building sand around ten centimeters high.
The pool is aligned with a spirit level and a straight edge in the longitudinal and transverse direction (left). Cavities between basin and pit are flushed with water and sand (right)
Carefully place the basin in the pit and watch out for a horizontal position - the easiest way to control it is with a long, straight wooden board, a so-called straight bar, and a spirit level. Important: Check both the longitudinal and the transverse direction.
Then fill the basin halfway with water so that it will remain in a stable position during the following operation and will not float. Remaining cavities between the pit and the basin are filled with loose soil or sand, which you then sludge with the garden hose and water. The water level in the prefabricated pond is raised in stages up to about ten centimeters below the edge to prevent floating. In addition, you should check the correct position several times with the spirit level.
After installation of the prefabricated pond, it goes to the planting
Now it's up to the planting of the new prefabricated pond. Place the swamp and water plants in the designated plant niches and hide the edge of the pool and possibly the transitions into the next deep zone with washed gravel or stone foil. Ponds should be used sparingly. Better put the plants directly in the gravel and water lilies in special baskets. Finally, fill your new garden pond to the brim with water.