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High trunks have a few key advantages over normal flowering shrubs: they do not grow so expansively and therefore take up little space. Of course, this is very suitable for the owners of small gardens. They are also suitable for beds because you can plant most species well with ground cover, perennials or summer flowers. And the beauty of it: Many flowering shrubs can easily be pulled with the right cut as a high stem.
Panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata) with pink discolored inflorescences in late summer
By nature, shrubs display a so-called basitone growth. This means that they do not form new shoots like trees only at the upper ends of the branches and twigs, but also in the lower area near the instinctual base of so-called sleeping eyes can drive out again. For this reason, shrubs are usually multi-stemmed. This growth behavior is particularly pronounced in hazelnut, for example, which often has more than 20 main branches and spends new age near the ground. Other shrubs, on the other hand, do not thrive so strongly at the stem, but from the middle section of the main branches. This is the case, for example, with forsythia, weigelias and many other spring flowers.
Climbing shrubs such as wisteria can be raised to high stems
For the cultivation of Hochstämmchen especially summer flowering shrubs such as hibiscus, panicle hydrangea and summer lilac are well suited. But it also works with spring flowering, as long as you consistently cut off all the shoots that form below the flower crown.
How to raise your flower shrub to Hochstämmchen
For the cultivation of a Hochstämmchens you best use a still young plant, for example in the quality 60 to 100 centimeters or 100 to 150 centimeters.
Tie the center shoot of the young plant to a support rod (left) and initiate the shoot (right)
In the first year you remove all main shoots at the planting right down to a strong, as upright growing branch. Now set the crown height by counting five eyes from the desired trunk height towards the tip of the shoot and cutting off the main shoot above the fifth bud. As the season progresses, the shoots for the future crown are driven out of the upper eyes. In the second year, you shorten the new crown shoots to promote their branching. In addition, remove any shoots that drive below the crown. In the third year, the crown shoots are trimmed again, also remove on the trunk continues to all unwanted side shoots.
The capping of the tip initiates the branching of the crown (left). Cut the side shoots to form a crown (right)
In subsequent years, the crown is treated according to the cut rules for spring and summer flowering. The formation of lateral shoots on the trunk gradually decreases with increasing age of the shrub. From time to time you will still have to cut off one or the other drive.