Frost damage to fruit trees


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In principle, hardy fruit trees and other trees and can suffer frost damage in prolonged periods of cold, but which can usually be prevented by appropriate measures.
Frost cracks occur mainly in young fruit trees, which have not formed a hard bark by sunlight on frozen tree trunks, ie by the alternation of sunny days and strong night frosts. As these cracks make the tree more susceptible to diseases and parasites, they should be prevented if possible. The purpose of this is to cover the tree trunks, especially on the south and southwest side with boards, cladding or jute sacks, or with a white, reflective trunks. If the cracks are already there, they must be treated: z. b. with a mixture of clay, horsetail tea and cow dung, which is attached as a bandage with a jute fabric to the trunk. There are also suitable ready-made products ("artificial bark").
If deep frost gaps have formed or have been replaced by the entry of moisture frost plates, the dead tissue should be cut out and treated with healing wound closure agents. In large wounds long Reiser can be placed vertically next to each other on the wound and pushed for attachment to the upper and lower edge of the wound under the bark, so that the wound is completely covered. When the rice grows fast, they take over the functions of the dead bark.
whitewash
The lime paint on fruit trees prevents the bark from expanding and cracking. On the south side of the trunk the bark heats up strongly in sunshine. On the north side she remains frozen. The warm bark expands, the cold does not. There are tensions.
It is important to winterize the fruit tree by the Kalkanstrich in time. The sooner that happens, the sooner the defense will be strengthened, and the more chances the tree will have to weather the winter well and restart vigorously in the spring.

  • From the middle of January until the end of January at the latest, spread the lime paint!
  • Simply mix lime and water to make a white broth.
  • Do not use too much lime as it softens the cells. On 10 liters of water only 200 to 300 g of lime.
  • Some hobby gardeners still add clay or clay flour, but lime is usually enough.
  • You scratch the trunk with it.
  • The dry season is about 3 hours.
  • Only paint on a frost-free day!
  • Swipe under the first branch fork!
  • In the trade one gets also products for the Kalkanstrich, in the meantime also for BIO and enriched with trace elements.
  • If there is no risk of frost, the lime paint can simply be washed off again.
Alternative to the lime paint
Many garden professionals warn against the Kalkanstrich, as it softens the cells. They generally advise against it. Alternatively, there are:
  • Arboflex of wings (stem protection color); Shelf life over 5 years; stays permanently on the trunk; two coats necessary, primer and main coat; two different products; Primer per liter about 10 euros, trunk color per 5 kg about 70 euros.
  • Muddy Water, It smoothes and cares for the bark, whereas lime broth causes it to roast and make it brittle.
  • Bio-tree painting von Neudorff; from high-quality silicic acids, herbal extracts and valuable trace elements, but also with lime; 2 liters about 10 euros

Video Board: Winter frost damage. Fruit trees..

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