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However, paths such as driveways should be invested more time in the substructure.
Which garden path at which point?
This is first to decide, because the substructure must also meet very different requirements for very different garden paths. And when planning your garden path more precisely, you might find some surprises... for example, you might find that the garden path in the back of the property should be best navigable, so that you can easily invite the apple harvest for the cider and leftovers into the car. Through the garden itself, the path in certain areas to endure a fully loaded wheelbarrow, in certain areas, he will be committed at most every few days. Then it depends on whether your property has height differences, which may even make the construction of a staircase at certain points.
With a larger plot of land, as the planning progresses, there is an entire network of paths that must withstand a variety of pressures. There may be main roads and connecting routes, an extra path from the patio to the patio (with steps) and a romantic winding path through the lawn. Some of these garden paths will be guided quite straight, some serve rather the decorative arrangement of the garden and are certainly not to run dead straight. Each of these paths gets now, when the planning is done, just the right substructure:
The different types of substructure for a garden path
- One way to be traveled by a motor vehicle (and perhaps even by the truck with the oil delivery) needs a multi-layered, stable and carefully compacted substructure.
- The main path through the garden has to carry a wheelbarrow, which may also be loaded with heavy building material for some garden buildings. He should also get a durable substructure of several layers, which is particularly compacted.
- The path away from the house must be provided with a substructure that carries the rainwater away from the house, and the substructure must also meet certain requirements for infiltration. Otherwise: several layers, suitable for the respective plaster.
- Narrow, decorative paths can be equipped with different coverings, each with a specific base, usually just a bit of gravel or gravel. Only if garden paths are to be laid on freshly heaped land, you have to pay special attention to the compaction of the substrate.
- Paths with loose coverings such as bark mulch get a layer of root protection fleece on the substructure, so they look much longer "neat" from.
- The garden paths, which can no longer be called "paths" because they only consist of individual stepping stones, do not need a substructure at all. However, you should be aware that these will surely change over time, and the stones will eventually be quite crooked and crooked. For people who are not of the best age and / or who show insecurities while running, in no case the right surface!
If you have taken over a well overgrown natural plot in which you would prefer not to create any (visible or eye-catching) path, you could use a special trick: you determine a route that goes through the middle of tall scrub could be by putting small pegs with barrier tape in the ground on both sides. Then you should check the route once, if somewhere open up roots that encourage you to relocate the route rather than digging. Now everything that grows between the pegs has to be removed so far that you can drive off the track with the lawn mower. If you are lucky, you only need to cut all the vegetation from herbs, grasses and young tree shoots to a height of about 20 cm, that is until the lawnmower holds. This is also the regular care of this garden path: Mow in the summer once every two weeks, done! Of course, you also save a lot of money, and such a path is better on any reasonably flat plot than the solution with stepping stones.
Tips for substructure
The substructure used is generally gravel, gravel and sand. And this for the following reason: Since there are gaps in the gravel and gravel, the water can drain well. In addition, gravel does not give way even under heavy load.
Depending on how deep the excavation is, you have to fill up with gravel and gravel. The layer with gravel should not be more than 10cm high, the gravel layer 3cm and then a sand bed by storing the stones.
If the joints are to be closed and the water can not seep directly, care must be taken for a slope that drains off the water. The slope should always be away from the house, as long as the path runs along the wall of the house. A minimum gradient of 2-3° is sufficient.With the spirit level you should check the gradient about every meter.
When this work is done, it is almost time to start paving. But first you should be aware of which pattern or which type of bandage you want to use.