The Content Of The Article:
- 1. First plan, then plant
- 2. Pay attention to the shadow of woody plants
- 3. Observe the recommended planting distances in the perennial border
- 4. Soil improvement for good starting conditions
- 5. Gravel coverings: reduce care
- 6. Plant appropriately for the location
- 7. A weed fleece even helps against greed
- 8. The beautiful game of forms
- 9. Beware of usurers
- 10. Choose water inhabitants according to the pond size
- 11. Do not forget water connection
- 12. Remember final size when buying
- 13. Test run when planning garden paths
- 14. Choose a lawn type suitable for the garden
- 15. Conscious use of climbing plants
1. First plan, then plant
First, draw a true-to-scale inventory plan that shows buildings and existing features such as shrubs, paths, and seating that you want to preserve. Then you put tracing paper and sketch ideas for the garden area, which is to be redesigned. Tree treetops are the easiest way to display them with a circle template, beds as shaded areas, which can be represented with crayons in the desired flower colors.
2. Pay attention to the shadow of woody plants
Sun or shade desired? This should anyway be clear before the installation of a seat, but also at what time of day you will use it most often, because the shadow of surrounding trees and buildings "migrates" during the day. Consider also seasonal changes - a place, which seemed to be flooded with light in the spring, may be in the shade in summer, then in dense foliage or shrubs.
3. Observe the recommended planting distances in the perennial border
For the benefit of a closed plant cover right from the start, many hobby gardeners often ignore the planting distances indicated on the labels. Not a good idea, because densely planted shrubs or bushes hinder each other in their development after just a few months. Species that must first gain momentum are being replaced by more dynamic contemporaries. The bed concept is gone and you yourself from then on transplanting busy. So better stick to the recommended planting distances.
Pay attention to the new planting on generous planting distances, so that the perennials do not press later
A rough guide provides the following rule of thumb: Scaffolding - high species such as the Delphinium, which give the bed structure and determine the image - require at least 60 centimeters distance to the surrounding plants. The smaller companion perennials should have at least 40 inches of legroom. Fills, for example, different types of cranesbill, get by with 25 to 35 centimeters. Weeds can be prevented by chopping or mulching, or by sprinkling short-lived perennials and summer flowers into the bed.
4. Soil improvement for good starting conditions
The house is ready, but often the floor needs a renovation! First dig with the spade 30 to 40 centimeters deep and loosen - on large surfaces, this is easier to do with a tiller or tiller. On sandy soils, you can incorporate compost and bentonite, which increases the ability to retain water and nutrients. Heavy soils are loosened with compost and sand. Finally, sow a green manure, such as lupines or phacelia.
5. Gravel coverings: reduce care
Gravel can look awesome - and be super annoying when weeds spread and in autumn fall foliage makes it difficult to keep the surfaces clean. What helps against that: Include a weed fleece underneath gravel paths and squares, as well as regularly raking the surfaces, which will put an end to many budding weeds. When planning, avoid using woody plants with very small leaves and instead plant large-leaved species, as their foliage is much easier to remove.
A mulch layer of stones does not make a gravel garden and does not prevent the growth of weeds. This happens rather through the installation of a weed fleece, which is cut crosswise at the places where the plants are to be used
6. Plant appropriately for the location
Even if roses and lavender are your favorites, in the shade you will not enjoy sun worshipers. They take care of, hardly bloom and become susceptible to disease. What helps: to focus on the positive aspects of the shadow, because here are also many attractive Blattschmuck- and flowering plants to choose from, for example, funerals, ferns or ivy. Only on snails should you pay more attention in the shade. Tip: Shadow plants do not like full sun, but many species are more sun-tolerant the more moist the soil is.
7. A weed fleece even helps against greed
Weeds such as greed or field winds can drive gardeners to despair. A water- and air-permeable weed foil or fleece creates a remedy. There are several variants, some with pre-cut slots, through which one uses the plants. After planting, cover any exposed tissue with mulch or gravel. Vegetable beds are replanted regularly, so there are biodegradable cover materials based on cereal starch, paper, jute or sisal. They are incorporated into the soil at the end of the season or disposed of via the composter or the bio-waste bin.This variant is also recommended if you only want to give your perennials a growth advantage over the weeds.
For a weed fleece, pay attention to the weight of the fabric given in g / m - the heavier, the more robust it is
8. The beautiful game of forms
Even small terraced gardens can be divided into individual areas and thus appear more diverse. Several, differently designed areas not only allow many possibilities of use, but also turn the garden into an individual piece of jewelery in which there is always something new to discover. Especially if it succeeds in an imaginative form game. To make the garden not overcrowded, but harmonious, the subdivision should be clear and simple.
9. Beware of usurers
Some plants quickly close gaps, but rigorously supplant weaker species. These include the golden-leafed oak (Lysimachia punctata), golden nettle (Lamiastrum galeobdolon), golden strawberry (Waldsteinia ternata) and many cranesbill species (geranium), which you must regularly with the spade if necessary. Propagation-friendly bamboo is kept in check with a rhizome barrier - a thick, extremely robust plastic film that is buried around the plant. The foil should then look out five inches from the ground.
Golden-rump oak (Lysimachia punctata) is very popular in flowerbeds because of its long flowering period from June to August.
10. Choose water inhabitants according to the pond size
Be careful, small ponds quickly freeze to the bottom - poor prospects for fish. For them, the pond must be at least one to two square feet 120 centimeters deep (better deeper) and he should take a total of over 2,000 liters - even so he does not overthrow or completely "upset". Rudd and golden oranges are basically better suited as pond inhabitants than goldfish. Also with the plant choice one should pay attention to the pond size. Water lilies, for example, are prone to proliferation, so small ponds are chosen for small varieties such as 'Madame Maurice Laydeker'.
11. Do not forget water connection
If the house and / or garden are still in the development phase, electrical and water connections can be laid quickly. Subsequent installations are much more complex and expensive, cost some plant life and garden owners nerves. In particular, those who have large areas to maintain, should also think early about an automatic irrigation. Such investments can significantly increase the recreational value - and offsetting dryness-related plant failures and the associated frustration, the costs appear much lower
12. Remember final size when buying
Woods like the wing-spindle shrub (Euonymus alatus) are growing! Remember the final size when buying. Unfortunately missed? Then plant best during the hibernation: For this, the shoots are tied together and exposed a sufficiently large part of the root ball. Spread a bale of jute fabric next to it and place the bale in the middle of it. Then knot the corners of the cloth, bring the shrub to the new location with the wheelbarrow and plant it again.
If a flowering shrub has grown too large over the years, it can be transplanted during hibernation
13. Test run when planning garden paths
A little further on the left, a little bit to the right - this not only works for the back of the furniture, but also for the creation of seats and garden paths. The trick: Test your ideas by not attaching paths and squares at the same time, but first sprinkle them with bark mulch. In this way you can correct the result without much effort. If you are still satisfied with the result after a few weeks, it can be paved.
14. Choose a lawn type suitable for the garden
English ornamental lawn, that sounds good! Is it also, if you are willing to spend a lot of time in the lawn care and the green area is indeed for adornment, that is to watch there. But if you want it to withstand regular garden parties or badminton matches, then you better choose seeds for play or hard turf. For extra layers, special shade grass is the right thing. In general, it is worthwhile to refrain from cheap offers when buying seeds: the grass species contained in mixtures such as the "Berliner Tiergarten" grow fast but often are leaky, and you also need to mow frequently.
A green carpet that earns the seal "English Lawn" looks good, but is not a hard-wearing lawn for playing. Clarify usage claim and location before sowing
15. Conscious use of climbing plants
Green façade jewelery has many advantages: It looks good, provides a balanced microclimate and offers protection, food and nesting possibilities for insects and birds. Self-climmers such as wild wine and ivy conquer the walls and walls thanks to adhesive tiles or roots without climbing aid. For these variants, however, the surfaces should be consistently intact, since the adhesive organs are usually "light-escaping", because they like to push themselves into cracks and crevices and can cause damage there.Also good to know: If Selbstklimmer removed again, remain parts of the persistent adhesive organs on the facade back. Those who do not want to do so opt for species that climb climbing aids, such as the honeysuckle (Lonicera).