Gardening in November - ubiquitous winter preparations

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In November the air smells of winter, cold and snow. There are only a few flowers left in the garden. But you can still enjoy the colorful Heucheras and the stalks many grasses that weigh in the wind. It is time to protect the outside hibernation planters and protect them from sensitive plants. Covering the specimens that are sensitive to winter wet, makes sense. It is important to empty the rainwater container before the frost, so that they do not freeze and burst!

  • When the foliage has fallen off, treetops and bushes show their shape. It's time for the rejuvenation cut. In the process, mature trees are returned to shape from the mold. It can be cut back strongly.
  • But there are also woody plants that do not like a strong cut, e.g. Fan Maple, Witch Hazel, Magnolia, Flower Dogwood, and Scent Snowball.
  • Except for the yew, conifers should not be cut back to the old wood. They do not drive out of it again.
  • Hedgehog hedges that are about to fall apart will also be cut in November. It is ideal to cut back only one side of the hedge. The other half will be cut next year. So the privacy is maintained and the hedge does not look quite so taken.
  • If big trees have to be felled, it is best to do it now. When falling, they do so the least damage.
  • Chop tree pruning and use it again in the garden for mulching, composting or as a covering for paths.
  • Specially sensitive trees, such as the camellia, need winter protection. Well suited are nonwovens, with which the entire shrub can be shrouded.
  • Against burns on the leaves help shading nets (in evergreen woody plants).
  • Plastic films without holes are unsuitable, because it collects condensation, which can cause rot.
  • Cover root area with a thick layer of mulch!
  • Frost-sensitive dwarf shrubs can be covered with brushwood.
  • Roses are piled up to survive the winter better. That is, around the trunk of the rose soil or deposited compost is piled up. This protects the sensitive processing station.
  • Worse is what the sun does with the roses. The shoots evaporate a lot of water in sunny weather. If the ground is frozen, the roots can not destroy this moisture. It comes to dry damages. If the branches are covered with brushwood, it protects against the sun's rays.
  • Stem roses need to be protected differently. The upgrading point is too high to be protected by pilings. Stick the brushwood into the crowns and put a jute sack over it. Do not use air-impermeable plastic bags or foils!
  • Roses in tubs can overwinter outdoors, but should be protected from rain and the sun. Rose also pile up! Wrap pot with coconut fiber mats and place on polystyrene plates or wooden wedges, the main thing away from the frozen ground!
  • Pour from time to time, but not in frost.
  • Perennials are usually very robust and do not need winter protection. But there are exceptions.
  • Cover evergreen perennials with brushwood. This prevents too much sunlight and drying up due to evaporation.
  • Protect pampas grass from precipitation! The grasses are gathered together to lay a straw or reed mat. It is important to protect the delicate heart of the plant.
Onion and tuber plants
  • The bulb and tuber plants usually do without winter protection.
  • Exceptions also confirm the rule here.
  • The madonna lily is wintergreen. They are covered with brushwood against wind and sun.
potted plants
  • Outdoor pots receive winter protection.
  • Wrap the containers with bubble wrap and over them with coconut mats!
  • Leave the surface of the earth slightly open so that it can be poured.
  • Put pots on styrofoam plates or pieces of wood so that they do not stand on the frozen, cold soil.
  • In mid-November, the last lawn cut is made.
  • Autumn leaves and twigs from the lawn are breaking!
garden pond
  • Check that the drain is not blocked by dead plants.
  • If you have fish in the pond, it should never completely freeze. Eisfreihalter or an oxidizer allow this.
  • If you keep koi in the pond, it's best to use an electric rod heater.
vegetable garden
  • It is time to harvest the last vegetables, e.g. Broccoli, cauliflower, white and red cabbage and Chinese cabbage.
  • Kale and Brussels sprouts can stay in the bed until harvest. They are harvested throughout the winter.
  • The summer crops of radicchio, leek, spinach and celery are also harvested.
  • Check stock vegetables!
  • Chicory roots can now be plugged into earth-filled buckets. These are covered light-tight. Keep soil moistured.After six weeks, the sprouts are ready for harvest.
  • Incorporate dead green manure into the soil through frost!
  • Dig up empty beds!
  • Covering empty beds with black foil prevents premature weed growth in spring.
  • Cover herbs in the bed with brushwood if you have not already done so.
  • Beat vessels with herbs with bubble wrap and wrap with coconut mats.
  • Place pots on wooden slats or trivets.
  • Bring frost-sensitive varieties to the winter quarteir!
  • Do not forget to water during dry periods!
  • Pile the vines! Especially at young vines at the foot of the trunk pile soil that the finishing is covered.
  • Currant, Jostabeere, Blueberry, Quince, Elder and Fig can now be propagated by sticks. One uses a vigorously developed annual shoot, about 25 cm long. He is put in loose soil. The eyes must point upwards. Only the top bud may protrude from the ground.
  • Ventilate on frost-free days!
  • Leave air circulator switched on.
  • Switch on heating and set at 3 to 5° C!
  • If necessary, pour in selected potted plants, if possible in the morning!
  • Check for pests.
  • Do not attach any bubble wrap, it will swallow a lot of light!
In November there is not much to do in the garden anymore. Now it has to be checked that winter protection has been applied for all plants. Important are the cutting measures in the woody plants and the protective measures for roses, perennials and the outside wintering potted plants. Now all the plants are ready for the winter.

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