The Content Of The Article:
- to water
- To cut
- planting combinations
- Diseases and pests
- Conclusion of the editorship
- Worth knowing about the glossy medlar "Red Robin" soon
The loquat (Photinia fraseri) "Red Robin" is a distinctive evergreen pruning shrub whose leaves turn red in the spring. Drawn as a high stem, it is a colorful piece of jewelery with its white flowers and the resulting red berries. Many loquat lovers put a plant into a bucket on the right and left side of the entrance. Originally from New Zealand originating up to 3 m tall plant is not demanding in their care. However, when cutting the Hochstämmchens important points to note.
plantsThe planting of the Photinia fraseri is best done in the spring, so that the plants can grow well until winter. Bale goods are very well suited as they can be better planted. The planting hole should have 1.5 times the size of the root ball of the loquat. After excavating the planting hole, first fill in a soil mixture that has been loosened with humus before you use the glossy medlar. Do not plant the high stem too deeply. The upper edge of the bale must be flush with the surface of the garden bed or the bucket soil. Firmly attach the plant substrate and water thoroughly.
Tip: Before planting, soak the root ball in a bucket of water until no more air bubbles appear. The roots have to soak up really well, so they get a good start to growing.
LocationThe Hochstamm-Glanzmispel likes sunny to partially shaded locations in a sheltered area. In shady areas, the flower and berry formation suffers and the foliage does not color so well.
Humus-rich and well-drained soils are preferred for the high-stemmed loquat "Red Robin". When planting in a bucket, you can also mix commercial potted soil with humus. This is just as well tolerated by the Hochstamm-Glanzmispel. The soil may be calcareous, alkaline and sour or neutral. He may only form no waterlogging, as this can rot the roots. In addition, then the foliage is dropped prematurely.
to waterPour the Photinia regularly and abundantly during the first 2 weeks after planting. After that, it is sufficient if you only pour, as soon as the surface of the garden soil or the plant substrate is dried in a bucket. Test the moisture of the soil with a finger. If substrate remains hanging, the soil still has enough moisture. When casting, make sure that the floor is not too wet, but not too dry. Choose the golden mean way here.
Tip: If the high-stemmed medlar is in the tub, then it should always be ensured that the excess water can drain.For this reason, regularly remove the water from the saucer or place the planter on bucket feet from the outset. These are available in various forms in the trade, sometimes with funny animal motifs.
FertilizeFertilize the medlar in the bucket best in spring with a slow-release fertilizer or commercial liquid fertilizer. In the spring, some compost that is easily planted in the soil of the garden can be used for planting high-stemmed lavender in the garden.
To cutHigh stems need to be regularly cut well in shape, otherwise they grow into shrubs again. First remove all hanging branches of the medlar, but leave young shoots that branch off from them. Then look at the branches, which are still upright, but are shabby. Cut these off at the base. This encourages the high-stemmed loquat to form fresh, new wood in the following year and the crown becomes more compact. This gives her a beautiful, spherical, aesthetic form. Do not leave branches that grow up or out of the spherical crown. Remove faint wood as well as cross shoots of young wood. It is always cut just above an outward facing bud.
Tip: Always cut the stem of the medlar with a sharp and germ-free garden or pruning shears and always make sure that none of the branches breaks.Because injuries can be entry sites of pathogens. It is best to seal large incisions from the outset with a commercially available wound closure agent that simultaneously repels pathogens and fungi.
The loquat is winter hardy up to a temperature of -20° C. Young plants in the garden and in the tub need winter protection. Pack the plants well in Lauberde, jute sacks or sticks. Red Robin in the bucket you should also not put so much the winter sun. Therefore it is advisable to overwinter the potted plants in the house at 10 to 15° C or fully packed in a sheltered location on the terrace.Remember to water regularly even in winter, but not as often and a bit more sparingly than in summer. Also high stem trees in solitary planting in the garden must be watered in winter.
planting combinationsGlossy medlars have a tree slice that can be planted, for example, with early flowering plants and perennial soil coverers such as periwinkle or pseuderiferous berries. But also astilbe, dwarf iris and dwarf columbine are beautiful plants for planting. An equally beautiful arrangement results for the high-stemmed loquat with flowering shrubs and perennials in their vicinity.
- cherry laurel
- mock orange
- fragrant phlox
multiplyRed Robin can either be propagated using seeds, cuttings or sinkers. The descendants are taken from a glossy medlar in bush form, since the Hochstamm the way from the crown to the ground is very far.
You can take the seeds from the berries of your own Photinia fraseri in the tub or garden. It is best to sow them in a so-called cold box or in a cold cold frame and overwinter them there frost-free. As a winter protection for the boxes are suitable straw mats and Styrofoam plates. From May - after the icy saints - plant the small plantlets to their destination.
- Cut head or shoot cuttings in summer
- or use the clippings from the cutting section
- Cuttings should be slightly woody
- Shoot cuttings no longer than 15 to 20 cm
- Head cuttings no longer than 8 to 10 cm
- remove all leaves except for three pairs of leaves
- Put cuttings up to 3 cm deep in potting soil
- either on the spot or in pots
- lightly pour on and put a foil bag over
- Air foil bags regularly
- put in a shady spot
- Breeding in the pot for at least 2 to 3 years frost-free overwinter
Diseases and pests
Sometimes red-robin high stems can be hit by apple scabs, aphids or weevils. As a plant tonic horsetail tea is used and the infested apple scab leaves burned. In case of very strong infestation, it can not be avoided to use an anti-scouring agent. However, you should do as much as possible without chemicals, so as not to destroy the natural balance in the garden. Aphids fight best with garlic, stinging nettle, horsetail or Niemspritzung. The fatmouth weevil larvae are fought with nematodes, which are administered via the irrigation water.
Conclusion of the editorshipThe glossy medlar "Red Robin" does not require such sophisticated care and is very cut tolerant. However, you should be careful to make the crown look nice in the annual June shape cut. Red Robin as a high stem is a beautiful specimen plant, but also harmonizes well with perennials, flowering shrubs and ground cover.
Worth knowing about the glossy medlar "Red Robin" soonLocation and care
- The glossy medlar Red Robin is beautiful all year round. As a high strain, the plant is doing well in the planter.
- But you can also plant a high stem in the bed. The glossy medlar hardly places any demands on its location and care.
- It is a popular woody plant and does well as a specimen plant.
- The glossy medlar Red Robin can be used well as a topiary. A ball works best.
- So cut into shape, the plants adorn the best in pairing a house entrance.
- The plant likes a sunny to partially shaded spot. The soil should be rich in nutrients.
- In the first two years after planting winter protection is recommended.
- Depending on the size of such a high strain costs from about 50 €.
- The glossy medlar Red Robin can be cut well. It is a form cut wood.
- The best time for a cut is just before the shoot, so in March.
- Just cut back the branches, cut them down.
- The shoots get thicker and keep the weight of the plant better.
- A regular cut keeps the glossy medlar "Red Robin" in shape.
- The branches and branches do not need to be supported.
- You have to be patient about two years after planting, until the glossy medlar really starts to drive out and grow.
- She needs this time to rooted properly. After about two years, it should then be cut so that the crown is nice and tight.
- The outer branches are cut more strongly than the inner branches.
- Bright medlars also drift well from old wood, which is why you can not do much wrong with cutting. The plant forgives cut defects and usually drives out willingly again.
- It is best to cut back except for an outward-facing eye (bud).
Tip: Cuts larger than a 2 euro piece are treated with a wound closure agent, e.g. with malusan, The remedy is struck on the cut. It prevents germs, fungi and the like from entering.