Gooseberries multiply themselves

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The most common variant of gooseberries is propagation through plywood. It is a form of cuttings propagation. Steckwölzer, one-year shoot sections, unlike cuttings are put into the ground without foliage - in winter instead of summer. The advantage: you do not need any potting soil or special covers.

Proceed as follows: After the fall of the leaves, cut individual pieces of 15 centimeters in length from the one-year-old and strong, already lignified shoots in late autumn to early winter. The entire shoot is suitable for the plywood except for the unripe, thin shoot tips.
Each section must have a well-formed bud or eye at the top and bottom.
Now you can bundle the sticks, label them and break them down to the uppermost centimeters into a shady bed with loose soil. Store the wood for two to three months. In the spring you will see if and on which woods the first small roots have formed. Put the rooted material in humus enriched, partially shaded beds. Only the top two buds should protrude from the soil. Keep a distance of 20 to 30 centimeters in the row and pour the sticks after planting.
If desired, you can trim the new shoots in May to about three leaves. In this way, the branching is stimulated. Also, water the young plants as soon as the rain stops for a few days. If the shoots of the gooseberries have grown well until autumn, you can plant them in the autumn in the final location in the garden.
Tip: This propagation method works best with high-growth varieties such as 'Black Velvet'.

Sapling of a gooseberry

Sapling of a gooseberry bush

Propagation by cuttings

If you want to multiply your gooseberries in summer, you can use lightly wooded leafy cuttings as propagation material. It is suitable for the shoot tips - so-called Kopfstecklinge - but also the middle and lower drive sections. The approximately ten centimeters long cuttings are defoliated below and plugged into propagation boxes with moist Anzendemde. In a bright and warm, sun-drenched location, they quickly form their own roots under foil or a transparent cover. Then you can transplant the young plants temporarily into individual pots or plant in the fall straight into the field.

Refine gooseberry high trunks

More complicated is the cultivation of a gooseberry high stem. The stemmed rootstock is the golden currant (Ribes aureum), whose bare roots can be finished after a two-year growing period. Then in the spring, the so-called copulation, a relatively simple finishing process: Cut the pad with a sharp knife at the height of the desired crown approach at an angle. Similarly, you need a one-year and ten inches long and obliquely cut shoot of the desired gooseberry variety, the so-called "Edelreis". This drive piece and the base should be about the same thickness. Lay the two cut surfaces as close as possible to each other and make sure not to touch the surfaces with your finger so that no germs get to the finishing point. Now connect the place with raffia and spread the entire Edelreis including the finishing with tree wax. This protects against dehydration.

Finishing copulation

Obtaining the base and the precious rice: Shorten the seedling (1) in the desired height. Matching this will cut a scoop of equal strength (2)

After you have freshly cut the roots of the stem, you can plant it in the bed. So that the new crown branches well, you can trim the shoots also in early summer. From autumn, as soon as a crown has formed on the gooseberry high stems, you can transplant the new gooseberry high trunks to the desired location.

Copulation cut and finishing

The copulation cut is carried out at the upper end of the pad and at the lower end of the circlet (3). The two finishing partners are now put on each other and then fixed with Bast (4)

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