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The real pineapple from the bromeliads family is not only tasty but also healthy. While the actual plant is not particularly noticeable, it becomes a real eye-catcher as soon as a fruit forms. Cultivation and care of the pineapple are relatively unproblematic and cut is only for fruit ripeness or harvest.
The cultivation of a pineapple plant is possible in different ways. So it can be called from seed, a leaf-head, also rump or by Kindel, which can form partly at the mother-plant, be used. However, in contrast to other plants, the cultivation of this tropical plant is quite tedious and not always promising, which requires patience and perseverance. The pineapple plant grows comparatively slowly. After flowering, the flowering stem thickens, from which the fruit develops.
From a leafhead
The leaf head used should be large and bushy and the heart should be light green and undamaged with rich green leaf tips inside. Cut the leaves and a few centimeters of flesh with a sharp knife. Then remove the pulp around the stalk and shorten it until just below the first row of leaves. Then remove the bottom 3-4 rows of sheets by pulling them downwards. When the leaves are removed, small thickenings become visible on the resulting stalk, from which later the roots develop.
Now the stem is placed in a glass of water or directly in a mixture of unit earth, a quarter of sand and some expanded clay or perlite. The substrate should be more dry than damp, otherwise it can quickly lead to rot. It is better to spray the head more often. In a glass of water, the stalk should only be a few mm in the water, otherwise there is a risk of mold formation. The whole thing puts you in a warm and sunny place. It can take a few weeks to root up to several months. After rooting can be planted.
Tip - The water in the water glass should not be changed, but always refilled.
Growing through seeds is a bit more protracted. The reddish-yellow to dark brown seeds sit about 5-15 mm deep under the fruit shell, some fruits also contain no seeds in some cases. For sowing seeds are harvested from the fruit, freed from the pulp and left to dry for a few days in the air. Then spread them on damp soil, lightly squeeze them and cover the culture dish with foil. Then place it in a 20-30 degrees warm place. It can take several months to germinate. As a rule, about half of the seeds germinate.
Tip - The seeds of fully matured fruits are the most viable. From seed pulled pineapple plants are not sorted and it takes much longer to fruit formation.
Kindels do not form on any pineapple plant. For a cultivation these should be about 20-30 cm tall. They are separated from the mother plant and then inserted into a suitable substrate. To promote the rooting, it is best to cover it with a translucent foil and place it in a warm place with temperatures of 20-30 degrees. The film should be removed daily for ventilation for a short time to prevent rot and mold.
Location and ground
The optimal location should be warm, bright and sunny all year round, with several hours of sun a day, avoiding bright midday sun, better sun in the morning and evening hours. The brighter the location, the more intense the coloring of the leaves. High humidity is an advantage.
The pineapple belongs to the Erdbromelien and prefers a loose, coarse substrate with a pH value of 5. Optimal is a bromeliads suitable substrate of peat and Lauberde in equal parts. Instead of peat, a compost-based, mineral and lime-free soil can be used, which is also somewhat crumbly, loose and, above all, well drained.
Tip - A repot of the pineapple is rarely required, usually only when the pot or substrate is completely rooted.
Pouring and fertilizing
- In summer, the pineapple plant is regularly watered.
- If possible, pour only with lime-free water.
- Do not pour into the leaf rosette, as is common in bromeliads.
- The pineapple reacts to this relatively sensitive.
- The substrate should be evenly moist.
- It is best to let the upper substrate layer dry slightly before each casting.
- Dryness is as unfavorable for this plant as too much moisture.
- Nutritional requirements of the pineapple is moderate to low.
- Fertilize all year round with a commercially available liquid fertilizer.
- Feed the fertilizer over the irrigation water.
- From May to September every two weeks and from October a little less fertilize.
Cutting / Harvesting
A pruning in the true sense is not required for the pineapple. Only the fruit must be cut to fruit ripeness. It may take 1-4 years for a pineapple to flower for the first time. The fruit develops within 4-8 months and with increasing maturity it discolors more and more yellowish, exudes an increasingly intense fragrance and the pulp gives way under pressure with your finger. Now the pineapple can be cut off the stem with a knife. The remaining leaf rosette usually dies thereafter, but should not be thrown away, because during dying it forms small shoots.
Tip - Pineapple fruits that ripen in summer are usually more aromatic than those that ripen in winter.
When hibernating the pineapple is not much to pay attention to. It should continue to be warm and bright, at room temperature not less than 17 degrees and a reduced supply of water and nutrients. Due to dry heating air in winter, it is advisable to spray them regularly with water, which can also counteract a pest infestation. Specimens that were outdoors should be brought into the house by the autumn at the latest.
The pineapple louse is the main transmitter of the so-called pineapple wilt. It can interrupt the water supply inside the plant, make the plant wither and cause the fruits to rot at the base. The leaves often show streaky discoloration. Ants are responsible for the transmission of pineapple louse, because they protect the pest colonies from predators, especially when the pineapple is outdoors. To effectively combat this pest, the ants must first be kept away or combated. Then natural predators such as weevils, gall midges and ladybugs can be used for combat.
A louse infestation can be seen on small dark, high-vaulted shields especially on leaf veins and stems. In case of an advanced infestation it comes to crippling of the leaves and flowers as well as to discoloration of the leaves and the leaf fall. If an infestation has been discovered, affected plants should be isolated as soon as possible by others in order to prevent their spread. Commercially suitable systemic agents in the form of sprays are offered for control. Those who do not want to use such agents and want to focus on biological control can use ladybugs or parasitic wasps against the scale insects and their larvae. Regular spraying with water can help to prevent infestation.
Tip - Scale insects should not be scraped off the plant, as the shields are usually already hatched larvae, which are then spread over the plant and so can spread further.
Spider mite infestation is manifested on fine white webs, especially in the leaf axils. It is usually the result of low humidity. To combat, the plant is first roasted thoroughly with a stronger jet of water. Then put it dripping wet in a plastic bag, seal it and leave the pineapple 3-4 days in it. The damp microclimate under the foil usually kills the pests.
The cultivation of a pineapple is relatively unproblematic, if one takes into account a few small things. The easiest way to pull it out of a leaf or a Kindeln. However, it can take time to root and not every attempt is successful. It may take up to 4 years to develop a fruit for the first time. But with luck, the long wait will be rewarded with a delicious, self-harvested pineapple.