The Content Of The Article:
- Wanted poster for gypsophila
- How is gypsophila poisonous?
- Which location is ideal for the gypsophila?
- Planting gypsophila - explained step by step
- How big should the planting distance be?
- Maintaining Gypsophila - How to do it right
- Increase gypsophila - That's how it works
- Fight diseases and pests on the gypsophila
If you want to bring a decorative shrub into the garden, which not only blooms for a long time, but also needs little maintenance, the gypsophila is a good choice.
Under its Latin name, the gypsophila is known as gypsophila. Among botanists, the ornamental herb is also called Rispiges Gypskraut, which can score in the hobby garden with its long flowering time, which can last into late autumn. Thanks to the large variety of star flowers, which make up the appearance of this plant, the gypsophila is found here in many gardens. This is a white-flowered carnation, which can be combined as a pretty perennial with a variety of other plants in their own garden. Whether in the cottage garden or in the local rose bed - the gypsophila cuts a good figure almost everywhere.
Although this is a rather delicate, graceful plant, the gypsophila is still classified as very tough and robust. Even the winters here are not a serious problem for the herb, if you use the appropriate antifreeze.
Wanted poster for gypsophila
The home of gypsophila stretches from the east of Europe to the west of Siberia. The clove plant can reach a stature height of 50 to an impressive 120 centimeters. Only the roots of the herb can show a length of up to 250 centimeters, which therefore contribute significantly to the robustness of the plant. With its many white star-shaped flowers, which are rarely pink, the gypsophila flowers from about May until September or even October. Even as a cut flower, the winter-hardy ornamental plant is extremely popular and can thus be wonderfully integrated into a bouquet of flowers.
Although the filigree herb has quite thick, turnip-like roots, it is not to be feared that it will spoil in its own garden. Therefore, gypsophila does not spread like weeds and makes amateur gardeners accordingly little work.
How is gypsophila poisonous?
Yes, you are reading correctly. The gypsophila saponin contained in the plant is considered a poison. However, the amounts are so low that there is no danger to humans. For pets, however, it looks different. Dogs, rabbits and cats must therefore never nibble on the gypsophila. Although this would not be fatal, but even a small amount of gypsophila is poisonous to the animals. Incidentally, the fact that gypsophila is harmless to humans is also evidenced by the fact that gypsophila roots have been very popular in soap making in the past.
Which location is ideal for the gypsophila?
A look at the outdoors shows quite quickly that the gypsophila is not a particularly demanding mate when it comes to the right location. After all, gypsophila can also be found on many soils, which do not actually appear to allow flowering plants to grow and thrive there. Whether at railway embankments and crossings, on actually quite bleak, sandy hills or even on scree slopes - everywhere you can find the lovely gypsophila. This circumstance is very informative insofar as the ideal soil conditions for the gypsophila can thus be derived very easily. The ideal location for gypsophila can be described as follows:
- sunny, warm - even the blazing sun is good (but not for young plants!)
- sheltered position, if it is a variety with quite high growth
- dry and lean soil (but should contain a lot of lime)
- Soil without waterlogging
- deep soil that is as loose and permeable as possible
If gypsophila is to be planted on the terrace, on the balcony or in the garden in a tub, it is important not only to plant simple potting soil. Rather, the soil should be spiked with the following additives to provide the ideal location for the gypsophila:
For planting their own garden, the gypsophila is therefore ideal for pebble beds or for rockeries. Even on a drywall, the pretty herb feels very well.
Planting gypsophila - explained step by step
Basically, a Gypsophila perennial can be planted throughout the year in your own garden or even in a bucket. However, the soil must not be frozen, so that the spring has proven to be an ideal planting time. Then, in the same year, you finally have something of the long-lasting flowering of the gypsophila. The following precautions must be taken when planting:
- Free the location of roots, stones and weeds.
- Loosen up the earth with a rake.
- Then smooth the soil with a rake.
- Soak the root ball in a bucket with water.
- Create a plant pit and cover the bottom with a drainage.
- Now dig the herb in the hole as deep as before in the pot.
- High-growing gypsophila provided with a support post.
If you do not want to plant gypsophila in a bed but directly in the tub, you should use a smaller variety of the plant. These are even available for flower boxes. It depends on a planter, on whose soil the water can drain, crucial. Because waterlogging otherwise means death for the gypsophila. This also applies to gypsophila in the bed. So it makes perfect sense to plant the herb on a hill in the great outdoors. Even in heavy rain, the liquid can thus drain more easily.
How big should the planting distance be?
Depending on the variety, you must keep a different planting distance when planting. Generally, the following rules of thumb apply:
|height||grew width||planting distance|
|10 to 15 cm||up to 30 cm||20 to 30 cm|
|20 to 30 cm||60 to 80 cm||80 cm|
|30 to 40 cm||20 to 30 cm||30 cm|
|80 to 100 cm||40 to 80 cm||50 cm|
|100 to 120 cm||up to 80 cm||70 cm|
Maintaining Gypsophila - How to do it right
A look at the ideal site conditions for the gypsophila suggests that this plant does not need too much water. This is in fact what it means, that you only have to resort to the watering can at all in dry periods, which are characterized by a particularly long duration.
Even on fertilizer, you can completely do without the gypsophila. Because the herb does not need fertilizers in order to flourish magnificently. Too many nutrients in the form of fertilizer could even have the opposite effect and ultimately damage the perennial. Even organic mulch should therefore not be used in the vicinity of the extremely easy-care gypsophila.
A pruning of the gypsophila is especially recommended because you can then stimulate the herb to a second flowering. If that's your goal, you'll need to cut back at the right time. The pruning should be done exactly when the gypsophila flowers for the first time. For this purpose, please start the pruning briefly over the foliage of the plant. A pruning also makes sense in the autumn, whereby the perennials are then shortened to a hand width above the ground.
Who wants to beautify his living room with gypsophila as Blumenbukett, cut off the flower stalks best in the early morning hours. Then only part of the flower buds have opened. Of course you should remove the lower leaves before placing the gypsophila in a vase. To keep the bouquet as long as possible, you have to cut the stems slightly obliquely, as with most other flowers. Lukewarm water is recommended so that the gypsophila is not exposed to cold shock. Add a pinch of sugar to the lukewarm flowering water, so the gypsophila in the vase will bloom even longer. A nutrient solution for the flower vase, which is available for example in the specialized trade, so does not need, sugar is anyway more favorable.
Most gypsophila species are winter hardy ornamental plants. After pruning in autumn after the end of flowering, you should still cover the plant for safety. For example, you can use the following materials for this frost protection:
- mare's tail
Snow and frost can thus hardly penetrate to the gypsophila to drench it. However, as soon as the temperatures rise in the spring, it is essential to remove the frost protection. Otherwise it can lead to mold growth. If you have planted the gypsophila in a bucket, you should place the bucket on a wooden block in winter and wrap the entire pot with a warming foil for winter protection.
By the way:
If the gypsophila does not expel again despite the above tips, you can assume that you have inadvertently resorted to a one-year strain of the herb, in which a further sprouting is not expected accordingly.
Increase gypsophila - That's how it works
❍ Propagation over cuttings:
The head cuttings you picked from the first pruning of the gypsophila are great for multiplying the herb. Propagation can be done both in the pot and in the bed next to the large Gypsophila plant. It is best to cut the cuttings between 10 and 15 centimeters between April and May. Each of the cuttings should have three or more leaf pairs, with a cut just below the last leaf node is ideal. If you want to multiply the cuttings in a pot, you should proceed as follows:
- Fill the pot with a mixture of peat and sand.
- Defile the lower part of the cuttings.
- Plant the cutting halfway up.
- Lightly moisten the cuttings together with the substrate.
- Put a perforated plastic foil over the pot and its cutting.
- Put the pot in a bright place near the window.
❍ Multiplication by division:
The gypsophila can also be propagated by division as well as by sowing. When dividing it is important to remember that the thick roots of the gypsophila should in the spring as early as possible, but not completely divided. It is better, however, if you remove some rooting gently from the mother plant. The lower roots are then cut diagonally and placed in a pot.
The next steps are similar to the propagation of cuttings in the pot, where you should sprinkle the roots in the upper area with a thin layer of sand before you moisten them. Only when the first pairs of leaves have grown, you can relocate the gypsophila young plant in the garden. Young gypsophila should always shade you so that it does not immediately come into contact with the blazing sun.
❍ Propagation by sowing:
The gypsophila can be sowed in March or April. The best way to do this is as follows:
- Fill a culture dish with seed soil.
- Then sprinkle the seeds and cover with a thin layer of soil.
- Sprinkle the whole thing with a little water.
- Cover the tray with foil or glass and ventilate regularly.
- Set up in a warm place without full sun.
- Wait for the first leaves to form on the plant.
- Then move the small gypsophila young plants into single pots.
- Do not fertilize and keep the young plants moist (but not too much).
- Young plants can go into the garden or the tub, if they have sufficient root system.
The gypsophila varieties, which are available in the specialized trade as seed, are usually hybrids, which unfortunately are not perennial. So if you do not want to enjoy the gypsophila bloom in your own garden for just one year, you should avoid sowing. Rather put on pre-grown young plants.
Fight diseases and pests on the gypsophila
❍ fungal infection:
A fungal infection is one of the possible diseases of the gypsophila. It can be recognized by a miserable appearance of the entire plant as well as by the dark colored stems. So that the mushrooms can not spread like weeds in the further garden, you must excavate the concerned gypsophila perennials generously and destroy accordingly. Waterlogging also contributes to the fact that the gypsophila is more easily attacked by a fungal infection.
Snails love gypsophila as a snack. A worm fence can prove to be very helpful and useful here. However, this only applies in regions where you have to assume a strong snail attack due to the local conditions. Otherwise, this investment would simply not be worthwhile. Also snail grain can help. Or these tips against snails.
❍ wild rabbits:
Even wild rabbits like to get over gypsophila. As a protection against the animals only a special fence, which is offered in the specialized trade from the appropriate Kaninchendraht helps. This should extend well over 30 centimeters into the ground, so that the long-eared can not make a way underground for the so attractive gypsophila. In the specialized trade also various Vergrämungsmittel are available especially for wild rabbits.