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Already a few years ago, I got a pretty, white-flowering peony, of which I unfortunately do not know the name of the variety, which gives me great pleasure every year in May / June. Sometimes I just cut a single stalk from it for the vase and watch curiously how the thick round bud unfolds into an almost hand-sized flower bowl.
When the beautiful bedding has then withered, I remove the stems, otherwise peonies plant seeds and this would cost the plant strength to stick it better in the roots and rhizomes next year. The green foliage, which consists of unpaired feathered, often quite rough, alternate leaves, but is an ornament until the fall.
I leave my peony as long as possible, but eventually the cutback is due
In late autumn it comes with perennial peonies often to infestation with unsightly leaf spots. Together with the increasing yellow to brown color the peony is then really no longer a beautiful sight. In addition, there is a risk that fungal spores outlast in the foliage and the plants can re-infect next spring. Often occurs in damp weather, the leafspot Septoria paeonia on the older leaves of the perennials. Symptoms such as round, brown spots that surround themselves with a distinct red-brown yard, point to him. And so I decided to cut the stems all the way down to just above the ground and dispose of the foliage over the green waste.
Perennial peonies are cut back near the ground
Basically, however, you can cut off healthy perennial peonies like most krautigen plants only in late winter before the new shoot at ground level. Also my fat hen, candle knotweed, cranesbill and gold-weed perennials I will just leave until the end of February. The garden looks otherwise bare and birds still find something to pick here. Last but not least, the old leaves and shoots of the plants are their natural winter protection for the shoot buds.
The new shoots of the peony need a protection from fir spruce or a layer of autumn leaves in frost
The strong red buds, from which the shrub is going to sprout again, are already flashing through in the upper soil layer. However, if the temperatures drop well below freezing for a long time, I'll just put some twigs on top for winter protection.