Hibiscus - basics for successful care of the garden hibiscus

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Hibiscus - Hibiscus

The garden hibiscus, also known as garden marshmallow, grows as an upright, funnel-shaped shrub or high stem and can reach stature heights between 150 and 250 cm. His greatest ornament is undoubtedly the fascinating flowers. Their color spectrum ranges from white and yellow to pink and red to violet and various shades of blue. In addition, some varieties bribe with a different-colored eye. They are the star in Mediterranean, English and rural gardens and as a flowering hedge the perfect protection against prying eyes.


The best planting season for garden hibiscus is in spring, because at first the plants are still somewhat frost-sensitive. This leaves enough time for the plant to grow well until winter. At the beginning is always the soil preparation.
  • Soil should be warmer than 15 degrees at the time of planting
  • First, loosen the planting area thoroughly
  • Remove stones, coarser root remains and similar ground obstacles
  • Then dig out the planting hole
  • It should be based on the size of the root ball
  • Dig out the plant pit at twice the depth and width of the bale
  • Mix excavation with slightly mature compost before filling
  • Gravel drainage on the bottom of the plant hole ensures better drainage
  • Now use the Straucheibisch straight
  • Then fill with earth excavation and pour on
To other neighboring plants planting distances of about 80 cm and in a hedge planting of about 50 cm should be respected. In addition, when planting in the bucket drainage as the lowest layer in the pot to pay attention, only as waterlogging can be avoided. In the bucket, these plants reach stature heights of about 100 cm.

Care claims

The plants belonging to the mallow family are among the easier-to-care garden dwellers. Nevertheless, gross errors in care can also put the garden hibiscus and affect the flowering. Particularly important factors here are the right location and the right amount of watering and fertilizing.


There are well over a hundred hibiscus species, but one thing is common to all varieties, they love warm and sunny locations. For example, locations on sheltered terraces and garden yards are recommended. In addition, it can complement floral hedges and perennial borders. If the garden hibiscus is in a place with too little sun or light, it will bloom only sparsely or at worst not at all. Even drafty and unprotected from cold east winds locations get him not so good.
Although the attractiveness of this flowering plant as a solitaire comes into its own, it can be combined very well with plants such as lilac or weigelia. The charisma and attractiveness of a high-stem strain is further enhanced by planting with bush vines, bed roses, early bloomers or lavender. The design and combination options are almost inexhaustible in this extraordinary plant.
Tip: Planting a garden hibiscus with lavender or thyme can help ward off aphids.


In terms of soil conditions, these plants are not quite as picky and demanding. He should definitely be well-drained, moderately rich in nutrients and humus and moderately moist. Water should be able to run well at all times and waterlogging should be avoided. Advantageous are sandy-loamy soils, here is the frost tolerance in winter highest.

Hibiscus - Hibiscus

The permeability of very heavy and loamy soils can be significantly improved by the addition of sand and / or fine gravel. In contrast, very lean soil can be upgraded with compost. Optimal is a pH of the soil between 6.5 and 7.5, so it should be neutral to slightly acidic. For potted plants, commercially available potted plants and potting soil are very suitable.

to water

Young plants but also freshly planted or transplanted specimens initially have a comparatively high water requirement and should be watered regularly in the first few weeks and months. The soil should neither dry out nor be too wet, even in older plants. While dryness can lead to leaf and bud shedding, rotting roots are usually the result of too much wetness.
  • Before each watering, let the top layer of earth dry
  • This protects against prolonged dry phases and permanently wet floors
  • Always consider the natural rainfall or weather conditions
  • In a rather cool and rainy summer pour less frequently and less
  • Pour significantly more during a very dry and hot season
  • Sandy soils need to be poured more frequently
  • Such floors dry out faster in summer
  • This also applies to the substrate in container plants
  • In the bucket, the substrate dries out faster than in the garden
  • Always remove excess water in the coaster quickly
With a mulch layer on the planting orRoot area can protect the soil in the garden from excessive dehydration and also suppress the growth of unwanted weeds.


So that one of the most attractive flowering shrubs from summer to early fall can form colorful flowers in as large a number as possible, it wants to be regularly supplied with nutrients. In the planting year can be dispensed with additional fertilizers. This also applies to fresh transplanted plants, because commercial potted plants or potting soil are for the most part pre-fertilized.
Later, the plants in the garden are supplied with compost or another organic fertilizer once a spring and, if necessary, once more in summer. Container plants are fertilized 1-2 times a month from April to September with a suitable liquid fertilizer. Some experts even recommend to use a special tomato fertilizer, in which the plants should bloom especially beautiful.

To cut

In order to be able to enjoy year after year at a lush bloom fullness, to achieve a more compact growth or to counteract a vergreisung of the plants, they should be cut regularly. In the first 5-10 years but can usually be omitted on a pruning.
As garden hibiscus is a summer flower that flowers on the new wood, it should be cut in the spring, if possible, before it sprouts. Depending on the condition and age of the plants, different cutting measures may be necessary. For example, an education, conservation and rejuvenation cut is meant. In addition comes the cut of a Hibiskushecke.

education section

Above all, the educational cut serves to stimulate still young plants to a better branching. Accordingly, you already cut out all weak, dead and damaged shoots or branches completely at the planting and cut the remaining about half.

Educate to the Hochstamm

It takes a bit of patience and skill to educate a Strahman from a high stem, because the whole thing stretches over several years.
  • After planting, one chooses a central, straight and strong center drive
  • This central drive later becomes the main trunk
  • Remove all other base and side shoots on the main trunk
  • Remove both to a height where the crown should develop
  • Main drive remains completely untouched
  • In the following years, cut off all the competition drives at the base
  • This also applies to all the new shoots forming on the main stem
  • If the trunk has reached the desired final height, it can also be trimmed
  • For a beautiful crown shape, shorten the main branches in the crown area to a few eyes
Tip: The easiest way is the education of the high strain of young plants, here is the easiest way to influence the growth form.

preservation section

Conservation cut in shrubs means that only sick and dry branches are removed as well as weak and oversized be cut down to a few eyes. Isolated, only one-sided strongly trained branches are cut off at a well-branched point in the lower area.
The situation is similar with high tribes. If the crown has already developed well, only dry and weak shoots will be cut out in the future. Shoots that have flourished in the previous year, are curtailed except for a few eyes. If the crown becomes too dense over the years, it is advisable to light it up from time to time. For this you can, for example, completely cut out some of the previous year's flowering shoots.

rejuvenation pruning

A rejuvenation cut is usually missed from older plants and specimens that have not been blended for a long time and have become rotten rotten or already heavily blunted. To do this, you can easily cut the branch framework of shrubs to 30-50 cm above the ground and thereby remove all old, dried out and growing inwards or crossing shoots. Depending on the condition of the plant, you can also remove large branches completely, so that they can rejuvenate at the base and train many new young shoots.

Hibiscus - Hibiscus

In the summer of the same year then the new shoot should be lighted, for which you can only stand the required drive extensions and branches of the main drives. After a rejuvenation cut, the flower usually fails the following year. This is because the plants first try to compensate for the loss of substance again and therefore concentrate mainly on the shoot growth and not flower formation.
Tip: To facilitate the healing of the garden hibiscus, it is advisable to make the cuts at an angle, so the cuts are not so large.

hedge trimming

Also, a hedge trimming should be done in early spring, before the shoot. In order to achieve a compact hedge shape, they cut back every year to about two-thirds. At the same time, dry, dead branches are cut out. A hedge trimming should be made as trapezoidal as possible, because only then can enough light reach the lower areas of the plants, so that they can develop optimally and, above all, evenly there.If the hibiscus hedge is more likely to grow freely, cut only the shoots at the annual cut and remove old, sick and dead wood.
Tip: The decorative effect of a freely growing hedge is increased enormously, if one combines the hibiscus alternating with evergreen and early flowering hedge shrubs.

Implement garden hibiscus

Hibiscus thrives best when it can grow in one location for a long time. Should it be necessary to implement it, spring is the best time.
  • First, look for a sunny and sheltered location
  • The garden hibiscus should be able to stand there permanently
  • At the new location, dig out the new planting hole
  • This should be at least 50 cm deep and wide
  • Loosen soil thoroughly in the planting hole
  • If no pruning has yet taken place, it can be done at planting
  • For this cut, shorten the shoots by about one-third
  • In addition, remove withered and sick branches
  • Then dig up the plant at the old site
  • Be extremely careful not to hurt the root system
  • Dig up the root ball over a large area
  • Once the bale is exposed, lift the plant from the ground
  • Then thoroughly water the new planting hole
  • Insert the hibiscus as deep as it was previously in the ground
  • Then fill with excavated soil, soil and water again
  • Cover planting area with compost or mulch, but do not incorporate it
  • Do not let the soil dry out in the next few weeks and months
Tip: Even potted plants can be repotted in spring, at the latest, when the roots already outgrow the drain holes. If possible, the new pot should not be much larger in diameter than 1 cm.


The garden hibiscus Hibiscus syriacus, which is also known as garden eel, is basically hardy. Nevertheless, one should keep a close eye on young plants in the frosty season, because their shoots are still relatively sensitive and much more vulnerable than older plants. Therefore, especially for young plants winter protection in the form of a cover with brushwood or foliage is recommended. Despite everything, it can happen that individual shoots freeze in the winter. This usually does not harm the plants and the affected areas can be removed during pruning in early spring or shoots are cut back.

Hibiscus - Hibiscus

In the garden marshmallow, especially the white-flowering varieties such as 'Red Heart', 'Speciosus' and 'Totus Albus' but also blue-flowering ones like 'Coelestis' or 'Blue Bird' should be particularly robust in terms of hibernation. They defy temperatures of up to minus 20 degrees. Only when the temperatures drop further, which rarely happens, must these plants be protected. Varieties with variegated petals are slightly more sensitive. In the tub garden hibiscus is only winter hardy. In this case we recommend a frost-free wintering in a bright room at temperatures between 12 and 14 degrees. Casting is only sporadic during wintering.



Propagation over seeds has the disadvantage that the properties of the plants thus obtained are not identical to those of the mother plant. If you still want to sow, the seed capsules should be ripe. be brown before harvesting.
The seeds are then placed in moist Aussaaterde, covered about one centimeter thick with dry soil and then moistened by means of a sprayer. Now the substrate must be kept moist until germination and placed in a bright and warm place without direct sunlight. With a little luck, the seeds germinate after about 2-3 weeks and the plantlets can be further cultivated accordingly.


If you want to make it easy, you can speculate that the hibiscus sows itself and you can use the finished seedlings or sinkers for propagation.
  • Spread a layer of bark mulch under the plants
  • After flowering, the seeds gradually form
  • These dry on the shrub and burst at some point
  • The seeds fall on the ground or mulch
  • The bark mulch is the ideal breeding ground
  • This will develop many small sinkers next spring
  • They grow relatively fast and start to branch out early
The countersinks can be carefully removed and planted in small pots. They are allowed to stand in the sun and start blooming for the first time after about three years.


Best time for a cuttings propagation is in the summer. During this time, the cuttings roost the fastest. You cut 5-10 cm long cuttings that have at best three eyes. Now you can root them in a glass of water or directly in pots with seed soil. If you decide to root in soil, it is advisable to put the cuttings in a rooting powder and then in the soil first. To keep the evaporation as low as possible, cut the leaves by about two-thirds.
Then moisten the soil and inverts a translucent foil over the cuttings orput the pots and put them in a bright and warm place. The film should be removed from time to time to prevent mold growth. As soon as the first leaves appear on the cuttings, the cover can be removed. When planting in the water glass rooted cuttings care should be taken when planting not to damage the fine roots.


A chlorosis can be present in a large yellowing of the leaves. It is caused by too dark and cold locations or a lack of nutrients. The best way to ensure a brighter and warmer location and pay attention to an optimal supply of nutrients.


Aphids, mealybugs, spider mites
These pests can additionally weaken the garden hibiscus. Often you can significantly reduce an infestation already with a stronger water jet. In case of a stronger infestation you can spray the plants with a mixture of 1 liter of water and 1 tablespoon, which must be repeated several times until the infestation is eliminated. The undersides of the leaves should not be forgotten. In addition, beneficials such as e.g. Insert ladybugs.

An exotic among the flowering shrubs

Although garden hibiscus is fairly undemanding, some basic care should be taken. The most important prerequisites for a healthy growth and lush flowering are a sunny location, a well-drained soil and regular cutting measures. But this exotic with its colorful and very noble acting flowers, which set unique accents in the garden and in the bucket.

Video Board: How to Protect your Hibiscus/Gurhal and Sthal Kamal from the attack of Mealy Bug..

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