Cutting hibiscus: pruning the garden hibiscus in autumn

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Cutting hibiscus: pruning the garden hibiscus in autumn: cutting

Regular pruning of the garden mélibé not only stimulates flowering but also keeps the hibiscus dense, strong and in shape.
Although he does not request a cut, he rewards plant lovers and hobby gardeners with significantly more flowers in the following year. How to proceed and what to look for and what to look for is described below in the professional pruning guide for garden fish.


The right time for a pruning at Gartenhibiskus, lies in the fall or in the spring. Autumn is the better time to grow with a pruning. Whether new shoots, dense leaf foliage or a magnificent flowering growth, autumn pruning is better here than later in spring, just before the new growth season begins. However, the temperatures should still be well above 10 degrees Celsius and no ground frost in sight. It is best to have the autumn cut for the garden hibiscus done by the end of September / beginning of October at the latest, and a dry day for the hibiscus pruning should be chosen.

cutting tool

One very important point is the cutting tool. In order to keep the interfaces relatively straight without lateral fraying and as small area as possible, only sharp devices such as knives or secateurs should be used. Electric hedge trimmers for hibiscus hedges are only partially suitable because they are usually only suitable for pruning young shoots and thinner branches.
As soon as these become a little thicker, the devices usually tilt and turn off automatically. This means that with an electric hedge trimmer only minor cutbacks are possible, which are primarily aimed at a shape correction and straight lines are desired. If they are clearly out of shape and require a deep pruning, mechanical cutting tools or powerful cutting tools must be used.

Cutting hygiene

Although the garden fish always shows immense robustness in terms of diseases, but the use of dirty cutting tool can quickly lead to infections especially on wet autumn days. The transmission of pathogens such as fungi, in the autumn months and with contaminated cutting tools, great opportunities to harm the garden hibiscus. These must be thoroughly cleaned before each application and ideally disinfected. There are various options available:
When flaming, a fire is created in whose flame the cutting blades are held for a few seconds. Here, care must be taken that an intensive contact between the blades and the flame is created, only then a few seconds are sufficient to kill bacteria, viruses and / or fungal spores.
For flaming is both a gas Bunsen burner or burning alcohol.
For effective disinfection with alcohol, use either alcohol or isopropanol. For the alcohol, mix it with distilled water in a ratio of 7: 1. The isopropanol should be a 70% solution that can be bought, for example, in pharmacies. 70 percent alcohol is also available and theoretically you could save yourself mixing it. However, this is predominantly undenatured and drinkable alcohol, such as alcohol, which is priced far above the normal alcohol.

Hibiscus syriacus - Straucheibisch - garden hibiscus

In both cases, the cutting tools for your garden hibiscus should be placed in the solution and should remain completely submerged there for at least two minutes. Then either dry with a clean cloth or even better, do not dry, but drain.
Chemical disinfection
There are no fungal or bacterial residues to worry about in your garden hibiscus if you immerse your cutting tool in it before pruning in the fall season. Here, for example, offers the remedy "Dimanin" from BAYER. As a five percent solution and with a dipping time of only one minute, all harmful residues on scissors or knives are reliably killed.

cutting technology

In order to minimize stress on the hibiscus by cutting and, of course, to prevent disease, it is advisable to use a cutting technique in which you make smooth cuts directly on the trunk or branch. In addition, an oblique cut should be made. This ensures a reduction of the interface. In addition, the water drips well on a diagonal cut, so that the interface can dry better and possibly existing bacteria are removed with the (rain) water. If the oblique cut is made on sloping branches in such a way that the longer header is at the top, ideally the interface is not struck by water and dries even better.

After the cut

Autumn usually brings a lot of wet weather with it. This means that the interfaces on a garden hibiscus heal / dry significantly slower than would be the case in warm, dry temperatures. With the longer open interfaces, the disease risk increases automatically. Even without a dirty cutting tool, fungal spores can get into the interior of the plant parts via the wind and usually spread out unnoticed throughout the winter. But viral infections are also among the dangers that can penetrate through moist interfaces in the plant. Therefore, interfaces to a garden hibiscus should always be aftertreated in the autumnal season. For this purpose, the following products are suitable, which are applied to the cuts:
  • carbon powder
  • resin
  • cinnamon
  • wax
  • zinc dust
TIP: In an extremely humid autumn season, it is advisable to pretreat with cinnamon or carbon powder for disinfection and then seal the interfaces with wax or resin. Zinc dust takes over both properties, disinfects a little and clogs the capillary.

types of cuts

A pruning can have several reasons. Above all, the autumn cut in the garden hibiscus is especially advisable because of the growth. This is to be divided into different areas with regard to the types of cuts.

education section

The term "parenting" already suggests that this is a growth cut for young garden inhibitors. From the first year of life, the young plants should be regularly cut back in the autumn months so that they branch out more in each successive year. In the first years, this is due to the usually few shoots, still quite easy. With every year, the hibiscus is fuller and the effort accordingly larger.

Hibiscus cut in autumn

The heel pruning should always be done generously by shortening all shoots and trunk by three-quarters. The educational cut ends only in the year when the plant is densely overgrown and has no / hardly any light spot. After that, cuts can be made as needed, as explained below.

Standard tree cutting

The Hochstammschnitt is a kind of educational cut, in which a still young Gartenhibiskus is cut so that forms on a "bare" trunk a wonderfully bushy leaves foliage with magnificent flowers. Especially suitable is the variety "Hibiscus Syriacus Hamabo" for the high stem growth, which requires a lot of patience, because it takes between four and six years, until it is created by the professional cut.
Cut your plants as follows:
  • First year: lateral branches cut to two or three buds - trunk remains untouched
  • Following Years: Cut All Branches to One Bud - Lead Will Be Cut to Five or Six Eyes
  • End cut: Cut trunk at desired height - cut off all lateral shoots
  • Crown preserved: cut back only well-developed branches except for one or two eyes

preservation section

A conservation cut for your garden hibiscus is a measure that affects the growth habit and / or crown growth. The cut is done as follows:
  • Dried and sick branches are cut off
  • Cut too long and weakly developed branches down to three or four eyes
  • Branches severely branched off on one side shortly above a low-lying branch

rejuvenation pruning

Over the years, the hibiscus in the garden often becomes increasingly lighter. This is usually due to the internal branches, which destroy, unnecessarily destroy nutrients and take up space for fresh, new impulses. Therefore, every garden hibiscus will sooner or later need a rejuvenation cut. As a precaution, of course, this is already feasible before your garden specimen ever becomes lighter. For the taper cut, do the following:
  • Heavily lighted: strong pruning around two-thirds of all branches and the trunk
  • Normal lighted: pruning by a third and cutting all old, withered branches as well as cross-connections
  • Glade cut: clear out and completely cut off dried up, shaggy as well as transversely growing branches

hedge trimming

The garden hibiscus is becoming increasingly popular as a hedge. This requires a special pruning in the fall months, so that he receives a compact hedge form and every year in summer numerous flowers grow on fresh shoots. The pruning should be done in September or October as follows:
  • Complete pruning by one third
  • Carry out the complete pruning every year
  • Cut away dried branches, especially in the inner area
  • For straight cut lines, pull string along the hedge
TIP: If you cut the hibiscus hedge so that it is slightly beveled towards the top, then the light radiation is improved. This promotes growth and reduces the chance of indoor aging.

radically cut

A Radikalschnitt is especially recommended if the hibiscus has previously suffered greatly from a disease or he has due to his age extreme Auslichtungen and / or the growth is hardly or not evenly. Although the hibiscus usually tolerates a radical cut well, this still leads to a strain. Depending on why a radical cut appears to be the solution to a healthy and vigorous growth, it does not always recover afterwards.
Therefore it is recommended to extend a radical cut over several years. This means that the hibiscus is regularly cut a little over the whole year and a little more every year in the autumn season than in the previous year. This can be continued until the radical cut ends above the first branch on the main stem. This is usually about five to ten centimeters above the surface of the earth.

Video Board: Pruning Tropical Hibiscus.

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