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With their extraordinary appearance, Historic Roses are by no means part of the standard program. The varieties are mainly from the 17th and 18th centuries and bear accordingly sonorous names such as 'Princesse de Lamballe', 'Belle Isis' or 'Rose de Resht'. To be exact, "old roses" are all those who were known before the first tea hybrid ('La France') was launched in 1867. But because the expression "Old Roses" was not always considered appealing, the term "Historic Roses" finally prevailed.
The different varieties of Historical Roses come from both Gallica, Damascus, Alba and Centifolia roses. So different the descent, so different is the growth of today commercially available varieties. Varieties of the Gallica rose usually remain rather low and the shoots carry only a few spines, the varieties of Damascus rose, however, are already a bit higher. They are especially known for their strong fragrant flowers. Even higher are the varieties of the Alba and the Centifolia rose, which reach heights of growth up to two meters. The appearance of the Historic Roses is quite different from that of modern roses. This is partly due to their expansive growth, on the other hand, the foliage is dull green, while the flowers have shorter styles and usually sit more dense on the long shoots. The majority of Old Roses flowers only once, but persistently and almost wastefully over a period of three to six weeks in June / July. In addition, many exude a sweet scent. Exceptions like 'Jacques Cartier', 'Rose de Resht' and 'Stanwell Perpetual' are more often flowering varieties.
The damask rose 'Rose de Resht' delights with elegant flowers in crimson purple
Not all of the older varieties are robust, hardy and easy to care for, but many well-known varieties have been proven for several generations. They can do without the use of pesticides and still thrive vital. For Rose lovers who are looking for something special, a Historic Rose is a gain in the garden - a faithful companion with an interesting history.
Like other roses, Historic Roses prefer a sunny, well-ventilated location. Some varieties, such as 'Louise Odier', 'Charles de Mills' or 'Mme Hardy' but also get along with partially shaded places. The soil should be deep, loose, permeable, rich in nutrients and humus. Optimal are sandy loamy soil.
Historic roses deserve a place where they can set the tone - be it as a single shrub, high stem or blossom hedge. Precisely because the old varieties look like they were from a bygone era, sensitivity and skill in design are in demand. In addition to modern roses, they usually appear strange and inappropriate. Instead, plant plants that emphasize their nostalgic charm. Thimble, columbine, clematis and bellflower are suitable, which bloom at about the same time. In order to avoid a flowering break after the rose bloom, flowering perennials such as the summer phlox or Indian armchairs will be available later. Even one-year-old summer flowers like Levkojen or Wicken (Vicia) go well with the romantic style.
Historic roses, here the Centifolia variety 'Chaux d'Hollande', need little help to unfold their full beauty
The best planting season for Historic Roses is in autumn (around mid-October to end of November). During this time, the roses are bare root, that is, without bales, available. The advantage of the autumn planting: The roses can rooted well until winter and drive out vigorously in spring. You can also plant your roses in spring. This planting date is even preferable to autumn planting in regions with harsh winters or heavy soils. Container roses, ie roses with root balls, which are often already offered in flowering during the summer months, can be planted throughout the season.
Before planting the rose, pick up a planting hole that is about twice the size of the bale or root. So that the roots can penetrate more easily into the surrounding soil, it is advisable to loosen up the soil and the edges of the planting hole with a digging grave. If the soil is too lean, improve it with some compost before planting; heavy soils will be more permeable due to the addition of sand. Root-bare roses receive a plant-cut before planting. The roots are shortened to about 20 to 30 centimeters and cut off injured or bent roots. While you plant container roses before planting only until no more bubbles rise, bare root roses are best placed in water overnight, but at least two to three hours. Place the rose in the planting hole so that the processing station is about five centimeters below the ground level.Refill the planting hole with the excavation and lightly pin the earth. Finally, the new rose is still poured well and piled with garden soil. This measure protects the plant from dehydration and serves - when planted in autumn - as a light antifreeze.
As container goods, Historical Roses can be planted throughout the season
Bloomed should be removed especially in the densely filled varieties, so it does not stick the leaves. In addition, otherwise rot fungi can settle.
All roses are happy about an annual fertilization in the spring - the historical roses are no exception. Organic or organic - mineral rose fertilizer is recommended. So you strengthen the plants, provides them with important nutrients and keeps them blooming. An exception are new plantings (no matter if autumn or spring planting). Here, the rose should be fertilized for the first time after flowering in late June. You really do not have to water your Old Roses, because they can provide themselves with enough liquid through their deep roots. In particularly hot summers, they are happy about an additional watering. Here is the rule of thumb: rather water rarely, but penetrating.
If you want flowers, you have to provide nutrients
Historic roses need about two years after planting to gain in height and show the first flowers. In the following years in the fall in ingrown specimens only old, lazy and old-fashioned shoots near the ground remove. At the young shoots the flowers are created for the next season. The pruning of young shoots is only necessary if the rose is out of shape or too large, and should be done in the summer months.
Most Historical Roses are hardy and tolerate temperatures as low as -25 degrees Celsius. Above all, the finishing point of the varieties is, however, somewhat frost-sensitive, as with other roses. Therefore you should pile your Old Rose in December with some compost or soil and cover it with fir-tree sprigs.
The varieties of the historical roses are propagated by the refinement in the rose school.
Diseases and pests
Historical roses are just as immune to the classic rose diseases and pests as other representatives of the rose genus. In addition to mildew, blackspot and rose rust, it can come to an infestation with aphids, spider mites or rose cicadas. An optimal location and the regular support of the plants with field horsetail or other restoratives are the best preventive measures here.