The Content Of The Article:
Hydrangea plants are versatile and multi-faceted plants. While some of the numerous Hydrangea species are cultivated as ornamental shrubs in the garden, other varieties shine on the windowsill in full bloom. A stature height of up to 3 meters and 30 cm long umbels are not uncommon in classical hydrangea species. The popular spring and summer flowering plants place high demands on the location and also on the care. Some varieties are susceptible to frost and should not be left unprotected during the winter months.
Location & Substrate
Almost all hydrangea varieties feel extremely well in partially shaded to shady locations. Some species can also cope with full-sun planting if the substrate has sufficient moisture. It is recommended to protect the water-loving hydrangeas from the direct midday sun. Each site should be well ventilated and cool, which promotes the flowering of the plants belonging to the stone crusher plants. The plants with the spherical or plate-shaped flowers are also suitable for cultivation in the tub.
Hydrangeas have a special feature: the pH value of the soil influences the flower color. When using acid soil, pink and red flowering plants turn blue. In order to achieve this effect in a targeted manner, you can, for example, use rhododendron earth whose pH is in the slightly alkaline range. However, this value has no influence on white flowering Hydrangea species, the flower color does not change. A mixture of potting soil with humus and peat is gratefully accepted by all hydrangeas.
Pouring & fertilizing
Strongly fluctuating temperatures and short-term dryness are overly affecting the sensitive plants. Water regularly, the root ball of the plants must never dry out. On hot summer days it is often necessary that hydrangeas have to be supplied with water several times a day. This is especially true for plants in the tub, because these are particularly at risk from rapid drying of the substrate. For plants in the vessel, it is particularly important to water properly. Because the risk of waterlogging or root rot is high even in these plants in need of moisture.
Nutrients should not be a problem with hydrangeas. From March to August you should regularly be supplied with the plants known as "water hose" with a special hydrangea fertilizer. Azalea and rhododendron fertilizer has also proven itself and satisfies the nutrient requirements of hydrangea to suffice. In blue-flowering hydrangeas, aluminum-containing fertilizer has proven itself. As of September, the supply of nutrients is stopped, the plant itself takes a break in vegetation.
Hydrangeas purchased from specialist retailers are not repotted, but experience their first flowering in a bucket purchased for this purpose. Immediately after the flowering season, you can transplant the sensitive plants into the field or repot them into a larger planter. Choose a location that meets the requirements of each Hydrangea variety. The farmer's hydrangea, for example, is one of the more robust species and can easily cope with sunny planting sites. Hydrangea arborescens however, which bears the nickname "forest hydrangea", prefers a half-shady location. The space requirement of individual varieties should also be taken into account.
- Loosen the soil sufficiently.
- Remove dead roots and weeds.
- Mix the soil with peat and compost.
- Dig out a sufficiently large planting hole.
- Insert hydrangea up to the upper root margin.
- Cavities can be removed by moving the plant back and forth.
- Fully fill in the substrate and press firmly.
- Cast heavily.
Hydrangea varieties can be successfully propagated through annual head and stem cuttings. The shoots are taken in June or July, the rooting takes place directly on the local windowsill.
- The cuttings are shortened to 15 cm.
- Except for two pairs of upper leaves, the entire foliage is removed.
- Plug the shoots into lean substrate.
- The propagation takes place outdoors or on the windowsill at cool temperatures.
- From autumn, the cuttings must be relocated to a sheltered location.
- In the coming spring, you can put the young hydrangeas in the field.
How the right cut is made depends on the particular hydrangea variety.A larger Auslichtungs- or shape cut is not necessary in many species. It is usually sufficient to completely remove dead shoots or pathogens affected by pathogens. An incorrectly performed pruning can even have a negative effect on the flowering. Late flowering varieties, such as panicle hydrangea and forest hydrangea, tolerate a strong pruning in the cold season. This promotes the bushy budding of the plants and the flowers. Early flowering species should be left to their own devices, if necessary, the pruning is done immediately after flowering.
Many of the commercially available hydrangea varieties are hardy. Treat the plants to a warming layer of bark mulch or brushwood to prevent frost damage to the shoots. In the spring, you can protect the young shoots and an early flowering of plate and garden hydrangea with a special fleece against late frost. In winter-hardy areas, potted plants should move to a bright, frost-free winter quarter by October at the latest. The temperature should not exceed 3° C to 6° C in order to avoid hazing of the plants. Larger planters may remain outdoors in winter-mild regions. Wrap the bucket with a warming fleece or burlap.
The approximately 70 hydrangea varieties are represented worldwide, the variety varies between deciduous and evergreen species. Even in growth, the different varieties differ. While some develop into shrubs, others climb up or grow directly as a small tree. Many of the commercially available hydrangea species are specially bred hybrid varieties that reach a maximum height and reach of about 55 cm.
- Hydrangea macrophyllaAlso known as "farmer's hydrangea", classic beauty in the cottage garden. The flower color of the 2 meter tall plants varies between blue, white and pink.
- Hydrangea petiolaris: "Climbing hydrangeas" are extremely robust and need no special protection even in winter. The plant, which grows up to 7 meters high, forms harbor roots.
- Hydrangea arborescens: "Forest Hydrangeas" are ideal for planting in semi-shade. With a height of 3 meters, the variety is still one of the low-growing hydrangeas.
- Hydrangea paniculata: "Panicle hydrangeas" can reach several meters of growth height and form lilac inflorescences. The variety can easily cope with sunny locations, but requires a moist and lime-poor soil.
- Hydrangea serrata: "Plate hydrangeas" reach a maximum height of 2 meters, the plate-shaped umbels of the flower gave the plant its name.
Hydrangeas are classic and timeless flowering plants, which should not be missing in any ornamental and cottage garden. With a little skill it succeeds passionate hobby gardener to turn red and pink flowers into blue-flowering beauties. The cost of care and claim reads more complex than it really is in many Hydrangea species.
Worth knowing about Hydrangea soon
- In the care of the hydrangea is especially the supply of sufficient water very important.
- Such a plant should never dry out, so it is especially at high temperatures to pay attention to it.
- But it also does not tolerate waterlogging, so in tub hydrangeas should always be the excess water removed from the planter.
- The Hydrangea needs a lot of water during the flowering season.
- A Hydrangea should not be cut at all, but if absolutely necessary, it can be easily lighted.
- In no case should it be cut back strongly, because it already forms the buds for the following year during their flowering.
- With a strong cut, the flower will fail in the next year. An exception is the varieties, which also form flowers on the annual shoots.
Garden hydrangeas bloom white, purple, pink, pink or red. The color of the flowers is due to the dye delphinidin contained in them, which causes a different flower color depending on the pH of the soil. Low pH levels produce purple flowers, high pHs pink or red. Only varieties with white flowers do not change their color. In addition, the hydrangeas with the blue flowers are also very popular. These are varieties that actually bloom pink, but they are added to the plant soil aluminum sulfate or alum, causing the flowers to turn blue. These substances are contained in the special fertilizers for blue hydrangeas. If a plant is fertilized only irregularly, it can happen that both pink and blue flowers form.