Hydrangea petiolaris - species, location and care

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Climbing Hydrangea - Hydrangea petiolaris

Similar to rhododendrons, the climbing hydrangea needs a slightly acidic soil for good growth. With the help of a soil test, the pH value of the future site can then be checked before planting. If the pH value is above 7, composted foliage, peat or rhododendron earth is incorporated for subsidence. The best planting time for a climbing hydrangea lies in May after the sacred ice, when no more ground frosts are expected.

Plant climbing hydrangea correctly

  • Dig soil and rake well, the soil must be loose and crumbly
  • Prepare compost for optimal nutrient supply
  • Dig out the planting hole, if possible twice the size of the root ball
  • To protect against waterlogging, create drainage layer with potsherds or gravel in the planting hole
  • Soak the root ball in a bucket with water
  • put some substrate on the drainage layer
  • Place the climbing hydrangea in the middle of it
  • Fill ground hole with substrate
  • As the last top layer, lay on organic mulch (stores water) and press lightly
  • Apply pouring edge so that the water does not spread in the environment
  • Watering the plant
Now only the suitable climbing aid is missing for the new plant. Attach the lower shoots of the hydrangea for a better grip. Once the shoots grow, they form sticking roots that attach themselves to the trellis, the fence or the wall. If necessary, long shoots on fences can also be loosely fastened with small wire rings to guide them in the desired direction.
Hydrangea petiolaris always needs enough water, the soil should always be kept moist, but waterlogging should be avoided. If the plant is too wet, it can happen that the white umbrella panicles wither in the middle of the flowering season. Even too little water or too much sun make the flowers wither.

container plants

Buckets with decorative flowers or small shrubs often find a suitable place on the balcony or the terrace.
They serve as privacy screens and bring nature close to the coffee table. So that a hydrangea thrives well in a planter, there are some rules to consider:
  • An opening must be present in the bottom of the planter
  • Insertion of a drainage layer in the bottom of the pot
  • Spread a substrate layer over it
  • Mix substrate of floral and rhododendron earth
  • Dig hydrangea petiolaris in the middle
  • Fill pot with substrate and lightly press the soil
  • Water plant
  • Attach the climbing aid and tie the shoots loosely

Pouring and fertilizing

Climbing Hydrangea - Hydrangea petiolaris

Climbing Hydrangeas always need enough water and nutrients. Regular, even daily, daily watering is required. After just one day of high temperatures, the leaves and flowers of the hydrangea hang limply down. Therefore, it is recommended that the plant in the morning early in the morning and late in the evening to provide water. The irrigation water should contain as little lime as possible, as the hydrangea is sensitive to this mineral. Casting is done at the bottom of the plant stem, just above the root area. A pouring rim prevents unwanted drainage of the water.
Tip: Collect rainwater in decorative barrels. Thus, always low-lime irrigation water is available.
From May, fertilization takes place every 14 days until August. From September, the hydrangea no longer needs fertilizer. It is best to use hydrangea, azalea or rhododendron fertilizers. Alternatively, compost or horn chips / horn meal can be incorporated into the soil. Artificial fertilizers such as blue-grain are not recommended for Hydrangea petiolaris. Blue Grain contains too much phosphorus. If the hydrangea grows in the planter, fertilization with conventional liquid fertilizer is sufficient.

To cut

Climbing hydrangeas are cut tolerant, but usually require no pruning. If you still need to make a cut, the best time is in February and March. The shoots of young specimens are cut directly after planting by about a third. The cut stimulates the plant to branch out more. Lack of space or unsightly growth older plants can be cut back into the old wood back. However, one must consider the cut that the hydrangea already in the fall, the bases for the inflorescence of the next year. If you cut off too much, there may be no flowers next year.

Rules for a good cut

  • remove dead and frozen shoots in spring
  • Deadwood at the base
  • Remove unwanted and overgrown shoots immediately after flowering
  • Separate shoots over a bud
  • Use sharp and clean scissors so that the branches are not crushed and the wounds heal properly
Tip: If the climbing hydrangea is used as a ground cover, regular pruning is required to prevent it from spreading to unwanted areas.

Transfer and repot

Hydrangea petiolaris loves its location, repositioning or repotting should only be done in exceptional cases. Must be implemented anyway, the spring or fall is the best time for it. Before digging up the plant, shoots should be cut back to 50 cm. Then the climbing hydrangea is outcropped large area to hurt as few roots. Before the hydrangea is planted at its new location, the planting hole needs to be well watered. The plant roots faster when loose and humus rich soil is used to fill the planting hole.
If the planting hole is filled up, never pit the earth! The pressure would hurt the sensitive roots. In the following weeks, regular watering is required because the plant must root itself in its new location. After the Umpflanzaktion the climbing hydrangea will probably not bloom for several years. She needs time to recover and form new roots.


Climbing Hydrangea - Hydrangea petiolaris

The Hydrangea petiolaris is a hardy climbing plant that survives even severe frost. However, young and container plants need winter protection. Young plants that grow in a bed, get a layer of leaves or straw against the cold. If climbing shoots have already formed, they are covered with bast mats. Bucket wrapped to protect the sensitive roots with a foil. From the age of two years, the climbing hydrangea no longer needs winter protection.


Climbing Hydrangeas can easily be multiplied with little effort. The best time for this are the months of July and August. For propagation lowering or cuttings are suitable. For lowering, you take ground-level side shoots, which are lowered into the ground.
Propagation step by step
  • select suitable non-lignified shoots
  • Remove leaves, apply a wound cut in the center piece (remove narrow piece of bark on the bottom of the shoot)
  • Shoot put on the interface in humus soil and fix, the shoot tip sticks out about 10 cm from the ground
  • water well
Tip: Only separate the simmerer from the mother plant if it is well rooted and has formed new shoots.
For head cuttings this year's side shoots are already woody, have not flowered and also have no buds.
Propagation step by step
  • Select side shoot from 10 to 15 cm in length
  • cut diagonally below one eye (so water can be absorbed better)
  • remove lower leaves
  • Immerse cut surface in rooting powder (does not have to be, but stimulates root formation)
  • Plant cuttings in a pot with a mixture of sand and peat
  • Place in a bright, sheltered place, no direct sun
  • sprinkle and always keep well moist
Fresh cuttings are very sensitive to cold and must therefore be kept in a bright, frost-free place. The following spring, after the icy saints in May, the young climbing hydrangeas may be planted at their future permanent place.

Diseases and pests

The robust climbing hydrangea is rarely attacked by diseases or pests. Rarely is the occurrence of chlorosis observed. In this disease, the leaves turn yellow, but are traversed by green-colored veins. Occasional doses of rhododendron earth or peat prevent chlorosis from occurring.
In the summer months, also true and downy mildew can occur on the shoots and flowers of hydrangea. Mildew is a fungal disease characterized by a whitish, floury topsoil. Powdery mildew attacks mainly the leaves. The white surface can be easily wiped off. An affected leaf turns brown and finally falls off. The downy mildew is observed with a white coating on the underside of the leaves. Here the mushroom penetrates deep into the plant.
Fungicides which are sprayed on the affected plant are suitable for controlling. If you want to do without chemistry, sprinkle with garlic or horseradish.
Tip: Use ladybugs as a natural control against mildew. Ladybirds with sixteen and twenty-two points feed exclusively on this fungus.
Aphids on the hydrangea cause their buds to fall off and leaves rolled up. The sucking insects can be fought with a strong and targeted jet of water, with nettle or with Kernseifenlauge. These measures are environmentally friendly but must be repeated frequently. More sustainable are the effects of chemical sprays, which are toxic to bees and other beneficial insects. Those who want to combat aphids, of course, uses larvae of ladybugs and lacewings.

Types of climbing hydrangea

Climbing Hydrangea - Hydrangea petiolaris

Through long-term breeding different varieties of Hydrangea petiolaris are available. Miranda and Cordifolia delight with their cream white flowers, Semiola and Silver Lining shine in pure white. A very special climbing hydrangea is the Hydrangea seamannii. It is an evergreen species with white umbels native to the Mexican mountains. It will take a few years for it to flower for the first time.The sun-drenched Mexican woman needs a protective fleece in the winter, as her leaves would otherwise freeze.
A close relative of the climbing rose Hydrangea petiolaris is the fake or split hydrangea. They differ mainly in the flower form. The creamy-white flowers consist of a wreath of a few sterile, heart-shaped petals and a flat center of many fertile flowers. Even the Scheinhadness loves half shady to shady locations and has few nursing claims.

Video Board: Easy Hydrangea Pruning - prune all types.

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