Hydrangeas successfully multiply by cuttings / sinkers


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Hydrangeas can multiply any hobby gardener by division

Hydrangeas are among the most popular garden plants due to their lush colors and the quite undemanding character. But not only their care is uncomplicated and thus even inexperienced beginners possible, also the increase of the hydrangea by cuttings and sinkers is crowned with the following instructions easy and in no time of success.
Simply in the care, but rich in bloom and beauty - the hydrangea is not only for newly hobby gardeners one of the most grateful plants. Therefore, it is not uncommon to desire to grow especially beautiful specimens of hydrangea. With the right procedure, this is possible both through cuttings and the controlled production of lowering elements. For this, neither experience nor a green thumb or much effort is needed if the following instructions are followed.
Propagation by head cuttings
For the proliferation of hydrangeas by Kopfstecklinge the right time is crucial. Ideal is the middle of the summer, around July. The procedure is then as follows:
  1. To increase the hydrangea shoots are selected that are at least 5 to 15 cm long. These should not buds or flowers bear but be well leafed.
  2. It is cut with a knife or pair of scissors, which should be clean and fresh. The interface must be about 5 cm below a leaf node and held at an angle.
  3. In order to be able to form roots on the cuttings as quickly as possible, the leaf surface must be reduced. For this purpose, the bottom leaves are removed and extra large leaves are cut in half.
  4. Subsequently, the lowest cut surfaces are wetted with a rooting agent, which is available in liquid form or as a powder. Although this measure is not absolutely necessary, it accelerates root growth.
  5. The prepared hydrangea cuttings are used in seed or sowing soil. Depending on their length, they are inserted at least five centimeters deep into the substrate or in such a way that only about half of the shoot is visible above the ground.
  6. The soil is completely moistened and the planter either placed in a greenhouse or covered with transparent film.
  7. The location should be bright but not exposed to the blazing sun. In addition, temperatures of 18 to 26° C prevail.
During the first four weeks, the substrate should be kept moist throughout, but not wet. To reduce the risk of mildew, the cover should be removed daily for half an hour to one hour for ventilation. That rooting has been successful can be determined in two ways. The hydrangea cuttings form new shoots, roots are present. If there is resistance when pulling on the cuttings easily, they are also connected by roots to the substrate. It is of course gentler to wait for new shoots.
If there are roots, the cover can be removed. Also, the substrate must then no longer be kept moist throughout. However, these changes should not be abrupt but gradual. Tip: The hydrangeas usually rooted cuttings within three to four weeks. Initial controls on successful multiplication should therefore be made at the earliest after one month.
Cuttings in the water
The rooting of hydrangeas cuttings in the water is possible, but the risk of mold is quite high in this variant of propagation. Not least because of this, the success rate in the rooting of the cuttings in the water is comparatively low. This method is therefore not recommended.
Make a lowering
The second way to control hydrangeas in a controlled way is the formation of sinkers. For this purpose, single and as long and strong - but still flexible - branches are carefully pressed to the ground. As with the cuttings, these should not carry buds or flowers, but have several pairs of leaves. Thereafter, the following guide helps in the increase of hydrangea:
  1. The bent down branch is weighted as close as possible to the mother plant with a stone. This should be done so that the tip of the shoot reaches far below the stone.
  2. The substrate is kept moist, but waterlogging in the soil is avoided.
  3. After three weeks, the stone can be raised and the sinker still connected to the mother plant checked for newly formed roots. If no roots are yet to be seen, the stone is carefully put back to the chosen location.
  4. If the sinker has already formed roots and holds without weighing in the soil, it may be separated from the mother plant. What is needed is a sharp and disinfected cutting tool. It is cut between the mother plant and the freshly rooted spot.
  5. Afterwards the sinker is carefully dug out, whereby neither the young roots nor the adult hydrangea should be injured.
  6. The thus obtained and excavated Absenker can be planted directly at the desired location in the garden but also first transferred to a planter.
In the first weeks after transplanting, the young hydrangea dropper is kept well moist, but again it should not be allowed to get wet. If it shows new leaves, the irrigation can be slowly and gradually reduced.
First wintering
Whether cuttings or sinkers - young hydrangeas are in contrast to the older plants still quite susceptible to frost. Therefore, they should spend the first winter cool, but not in freezing temperatures. A wintering in the house is therefore useful. Ideal is a temperature of 5 but not more than 10° C. The winter quarters may be light or dark, as the hydrangea loses all leaves anyway, it does not necessarily need light.
If there is no space available, the hydrangeas should be propagated as early as possible in the summer and planted outdoors. In this way you have enough time to prepare for the cold season. Nevertheless, winter protection should be applied. This can consist of straw, brushwood and garden fleece. Even a thick mulch layer under the young hydrangea makes sense. However, the winter protection must not complete the plant completely airtight. Foil is therefore conceivably unfavorable.
If the young hydrangea is cultivated in the tub, it can also overwinter outdoors. However, the planter must be sufficiently large and appropriately insulated. It is advisable to place the bucket on styrofoam plates to prevent the penetration of ground frost. In addition, blankets, mats or several layers of garden fleece are wrapped around the container, which are finally tied together at the top. Furthermore, the bucket should be placed in a sheltered place so that it is not exposed to cold wind, sleet or the like.
Conclusion
The increase of hydrangea through cuttings and sinkers is extremely easy if some simple rules are followed. If you pay attention to hygiene and a little patience, you can safely do without the green thumb and look forward to the first successes in no time.
  • For the cuttings propagation one needs a soft, one-year-old shoot without blossom and without bud.
  • The best time for this is June or July. The truncated shoots are then cut into pieces with 1 pair of leaves at the top and one at the bottom.
  • The lower leaves are then removed completely, the upper one can be halved for reasons of space.
  • The prepared cuttings are best first briefly dipped in special rooting powder (this promotes root growth)...
  • ... and then put in a flower pot or a dish with sprouting soil. If necessary, you can mix these with some sand.
  • Best a few inches deep, so they are stable. The earth must then be moistened and dwarfed.
Important: no direct sunlight! Otherwise, under the hood would accumulate heat. Anyone who "builds" a kind of greenhouse - which is also possible with a transparent film - creates a better climate. However, this film should always be aired to avoid mold. In an emergency, even a jar. Incidentally, the soil should always be kept well moist.
  • Once the cuttings have started to hit roots, they can be put into a pot one at a time and kept in the shade.
  • Again, a small greenhouse or a cover is useful.
  • However, the tender young plants should not be put into the open air in the first winter, as they are still very sensitive to cold at this stage.
  • So rather put in the house in a cool bright but frost-free place. The next winter outdoors is usually a problem.

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