The Content Of The Article:
The brook design depends essentially on the conditions of the particular garden. Here the planning is particularly important and indeed the entire stream from the source to the mouth.
First, it must be clarified whether the brook should flow into a pond or enhance the garden on its own. In combination with a pond he is fed by this, for which a water pump must be deposited either in the pond or in a special shaft. The pump delivers pond water via a hose to the source of the stream. Streams without pond mouth, however, form their own water cycle. The water ends here in a collecting pit and is also transported by a pump by means of a hose back to the source.
Consider the conditions of the garden
Next, determine the conditions of the garden, in particular the slope of what a stream one creates. Here are two basic models. With little or no slope, a meadow stream is used, as it is often found in nature. It is created in large meanders (S-shape) with small overflows, small waterfalls, constrictions and extensions with different depths to keep the water moving. In case of a steep gradient, several dams set in quick succession, the hallmark of the Splashing Brook, have to be created. This can be short or long steps as desired and given, but the height between each section should not exceed 10-20cm. Also in this creek shape constrictions, extensions and different brook depths should be created.
Width, length, shape
The average brook width should be about 50cm, where it can be varied with narrower and wider sections. A small island is also feasible. The brook should be at least 3m long, but it does not start to flow properly until it reaches a length of about 6m. The meandering should give elongated S-lines, no acute angles, as the water here easily overflows the banks. It also looks unnatural. On average, the course should be 25cm deep, with different water depths provide variety.
Expectations of a stream
A really rushing stream is not only unrealisierbar for the garden, but he makes life impossible for most plants and animals in and around the stream, which is why a splashing stream should flow only slowly. The desired and best also different speed of the water can be reached with various aids. A deeper or wider, perhaps even ground-level section can dam the water and thus almost stand. Tighter sections, lesser depths, rocks or wood in the stream allow the water to flow faster, as well as barrages that act as small waterfalls and enrich the water with oxygen. With some stones as a flow breaker placed on the barrages, the water does not just rush down.
A sketch on paper as the future Bach should run in the garden makes sense.
With the digging you always start best at the mouth. Already here one defines the different zones such as swamp zones, islands, deep and shallow places, spreads as well as narrow places.
Now it is time to get the necessary materials. If the creek is longer (from about 3m) and / or designed to be varied, there is a special pond liner, which should conveniently have a thickness of 1mm, to withstand the load of water, stones, barrages, but also of roots can. The film must overlap on both banks of each 20-30cm, that is wider than for the stream just bought. Pond liner is sold by the meter mostly from 2m width. You can also have the film glued by the manufacturer. PVC film is best suited because it can also be glued into suitable webs and, if necessary, can be repaired later.
For this purpose, a special adhesive is offered in the trade. It goes without saying that as few splices should arise, as they always represent a risk to leak. In any case, the splices should be along the length (pointing down stream) and not horizontally, otherwise sand and other small soiling may quickly get caught. Pond liner with 1mm thickness costs about 5-5,50 / square meter, here it is worth to look at special offers. Even more expensive but easier is it with finished watercourse shells, which are only suitable for shorter streams. They are available in natural stone or plastic and they can be combined well with each other.
There are also complete modular systems made of plastic parts in specialist shops, with which it is easiest to design a stream from the source to the mouth. However, this is also the most expensive option for a stream and you can not customize it.Gravel and larger stones are needed to cover the film around creek bed, to create the edges or even around obstacles that stir up the water. Care should be taken not to use calcareous pebbles to avoid unnecessarily raising the acidity of the water. With wood you can also cover the pond sheet on the shore and also build barrages. However, under no circumstances should impregnated wood be taken, as toxic substances enter the water. Normal wood will eventually rot and must therefore be replaced again and again.
For very rocky terrain or many roots, a special pond fleece or a layer of sand is recommended as protection. Then the film is placed on it. Of course, one must already take into account these layers when excavating and therefore possibly excavate deeper.
Most important now is the attachment of the film on the edge. At places that should be accessible, the bank attachment must be accordingly solid. This help pavement tiles, which find a stop in a sand bed. Several slightly step-shaped plates reach outside of the film from the bottom of the stream to the surface. The film is placed along them, with the penultimate plate being covered with a piece of nonwoven, in order then to pull the film over it. On top of that comes a piece of fleece and finally the last panel, the only one visible.
It does not matter whether the edge should be passable or not, the foil has to be fastened correctly so that no water can flow from the stream to the surrounding area. To do this, along the riverbank, make a small wall of earth or stones, over which the film is laid. Thereafter, the end is placed vertically upwards to counteract capillary action where the stream water flows into the adjacent beds. Excess film ends are now cut off and covered with pebbles or wood.
Many of the most beautiful brookflowers need a marsh zone. That is, they like damp feet but no current, which is why they have no business in the streambed. Swamp zones can be ideally stacked with flat lattice bricks or natural stones without sharp edges in steps from the bottom of the stream to the surface. This area, separated from the flowing water, is filled with nutrient-poor soil. Due to the stones, enough water keeps the soil permanently moist and marsh plants prefer to have a water level of 0-5cm.
When everything is done, the most beautiful thing is planting. The supply of plants for the stream and its surroundings is varied. Here is only to pay attention to the respective location requirement. If you plant in the creek yourself, you can use grid baskets or small plant bags, which are filled with nutrient-poor soil and weighed down with pebbles. The choice should be made so that the shore is no longer visible (takes about a year) and from spring to autumn colorful color accents shine.
A stream is not only beautiful and (unfortunately) very rare in the gardens, it also provides a living space for many creatures and who lets it flow into a pond improves the water quality of the pond enormously. Thus, it contributes significantly to the biological balance. However, in order to perform its filtering function optimally, it should be in permanent operation from the end of April to mid-October; also at night. If it is not in operation for longer than 2-3 hours, the important microorganisms die.