Guide to broom cutting - What to look for?

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Guide to broom cutting - What to look for?: broom

The most beautiful species and varieties of the broom species thrive as deciduous shrubs or shrubs. Characteristic is a rapid growth, which can assume quite invasive dimensions in the garden. At the same time, the ornamental shrubs tend to be sloped from below when the sun can no longer penetrate the dense plant heart. By cutting back your spring and summer gorse every year, you control volume and spreading urgency. In this context, continuity is important because broom from old wood does not sprout or sparsely. If you do not cut back the flowering shrub regularly, it will grow out of the inside and fall apart.

When is the best time?

The ideal time for pruning depends on the flowering time. The multi-faceted genus is not limited to their bright yellow spring flowers. So indulges us the native FĂ€rberginster with a summery blooms, which requires a different cut-appointment. For your orientation we have summarized the most important time windows for you:
  • Spring flowers, such as ivy broom or gorse: after flowering in June
  • Summer blooms, such as FĂ€rberginster, wisteria or rose broom: in autumn
  • Rejuvenation cut on the old or shriveled shrub: between 1 October and 28 February
  • Auslichtung: in the late winter, preferably February
For the appointment itself, please choose a mild, dry day without blazing sunshine. When deciding when to rejuvenate an old gorse bush, the legislature has a say. In the period from 1 March to 30 September birds nest in shrubs and trees to raise their offspring here. Therefore radical cutbacks are only allowed outside the breeding season. This applies to solitary shrubs, hedges and trees alike. Brooding birds or small animals with offspring through pruning or even expelling them will be punished with fines of up to 50,000 euros.
Tip: Beautify your garden or the drywall with the delicate cushion gorse (Cytisus decumbens) or the ground covering creeping (Cytisus beanii)? Then you can save yourself the trouble of an annual cutback. If the small beauties in the growth but once over the strands beat, cut back too long shoots at the end of the flowering period.

Which tool is recommended?

Broom - broom

The nuts and bolts in the skilful cut of gorse is the right tool. In the first years, it is sufficient if you use a sharp secateurs. We recommend the bypass blade system because two sharp blades slide past each other. In contrast, the anvil blade system works on a single, sharp blade and a blunt metal base. This technique argues with reduced effort. A disadvantage is that bruises on the branches are to be feared. If you are cutting an old broom, you can handle thicker branches with an ambidextrous bypass pruner. If you are confronted with 4 cm thick branches of a majestic noble gorse, a modern folding saw with toothing leaves smooth cut surfaces that do not require any further treatment.
Tip: Careful disinfection of blades and saw blades is essential for the effective prevention of diseases and pests. Contaminated cutting tools are the most common carriers of infections of all kinds. Therefore, clean your tool with alcohol, alcohol or hot water before and after each cut.

Instructions for the shape cut

Thanks to its easy care, good-natured cut tolerance and bright flower splendor, ginster is considered to be the ideal beginner plant. With a combination of sunny location, lean soil and annual shape cut you elicit the ornamental shrub its optimum. The first two criteria require the right choice of location in the garden. How to easily fulfill the third criterion brings to the point the following instructions for the shape and maintenance section:
  • Cut off flowered shoots by one-third or one-half
  • Cut exclusively in the leafy area
  • The low-lying and overturned branches fill out
  • Additionally, from the third year, cut off the two oldest ground sprouts at the base
A fundamental cut rule says that gorse responds to a vigorous pruning with an equally strong shoot. Conversely, a slight shape cut results in restrained growth. So that a young broom thrives bushy, voluminous and rich in flowers, the pruning may therefore be extended to 40 cm growth height, as long as there are still leaves there. In later years, aim to curb his urge to spread, limiting the shape cut to one third of the shoot length.
Tip: Various gorse trees are susceptible to frost damage.These reveal themselves in the form of brown, dried shoot tips. If you cut an affected broom back to healthy wood in the spring, the mishap does not negatively affect the flowers.

Cutting the gorse hedge - you should pay attention to this

Broom - broom

As a solitaire, gorse without its flower dress loses much of its decorative appeal. If you do not want to miss out on the picturesque blossom festival, arrange the ornamental shrub as a hedge. In this case, you benefit from the aesthetics of the group, which makes the missing flowers in autumn and winter go away. Regular pruning plays a key role in the care program when several gorse shrubs grow together in close proximity. Since the dense woody trees shade each other, they are more likely to be affected by the loss of their husks than in individual positions. Please reach for the scissors twice a year. That is how it goes:
  • Cut gorse hedge into shape after flowering
  • Shorten branches that are too long and out of shape
  • Cut off or tilted shoots on the base towards the ground
  • In January / February clear the shrubs and clean all deadwood
Important to note for a flower-rich and compact gorse hedge is a light-flooded habit. After you have cleared the hedge in the late winter, the sun should be able to penetrate to the inside of each plant. In adult or ginning broom shrubs, it has been proven in practice to remove the two oldest ground shoots every winter, even if they are not attributable to deadwood.

Get Old Gorse Going - Instructions for the Rejuvenation Cut

If you have missed the cutback over a period of 3 to 4 years, leaves and flowers shift visibly in the direction of the shoot tips. Ultimately, the loose ornamental shrub falls apart and shards from the base. With a rejuvenation cut you breathe fresh air into the lazy old broom. This is how you proceed correctly:
  • Radically cut back all branches in autumn or late winter
  • Apply the scissors before the last branch above the ground
  • Cut off dead branches at the base or saw off
  • Smooth larger cuts on old wood with a knife
Only a few broom species can tolerate cutting into old wood. When cutting, please make sure that at least two to three sleeping eyes or leaves remain on the shoot. If you can not see any vegetation points, run your finger over the bark. Leaf nodes are often felt as slight elevations.
Note: All species and varieties of the genus are poisonous. Be sure to wear gloves when grooming and cutting the bush.

To raise and cut broom to the high trunk - that's how you do it right

The loose upright or elegantly overhanging growth makes Ginster a popular tribe for creative garden design. Ready-to-breed high-trunks from specialist retailers have a proud price, because education is time-consuming. Only through continuous cutting measures does a broom get the ideal shape with a bushy crown and a slender stem. Otherwise, the natural growth prevails as a shrub with numerous bottom shoots. For the ambitious home gardener, it is a matter of honor to educate the flowering shrub in its own right to the Hochstamm. The following instructions explain step by step how to do it:


To start the cutting education to the Hochstamm you need a strong young plant, which has a stable central drive. Optionally, grow the plant from a cut of your favorite gardener in the garden or purchase a container plant in the nursery of your choice. Root-dead shrubs are less than optimal as a starting point. If you would like a spherical crown shape, tightly upright growing broom species are considered, such as FĂ€rberginster (Genista tinctoria). Favors a crown with casually drooping branches, orange ivy bark (Cytisus praecox) or gorse (Cytisus scoparius) in focus. You also need a support bar, a pair of sharp scissors as well as soft tube tape or special tree trusses from the specialist shop.

education phase

Broom - broom

It depends on the chosen broom type, over which period the education phase extends. With an average growth rate of up to 50 cm per year, a small high-stem has reached its ideal height within 2 to 3 years. To achieve a Gardemaß of 150 to 200 cm with a gorse, several years drag into the country. How to proceed professionally:
  • Connect the central drive to the support rod
  • Cut off vertical competition drives as well as the side shoots
  • Untie the new shoot at the trunk tip from year to year
  • Cut off the side branches regularly to increase the thickness of the center drive
Only when the trunk has reached the perfect height, cut off the top. Place the scissors at a distance of three to four leaves above the crown. Please keep in mind that this cut will determine the final trunk height.Subsequent corrections rarely succeed. Simultaneously with the cut of the trunk tip, set the branching to the crown in motion. Until it reaches the desired volume, cut the side branches back to 3 to 4 eyes after each flowering period. Do not remove the support bar during this phase. Only when you are sure that the trunk can carry the crown on its own, the support has fulfilled its task.

Shaping and preservation section

An annual pruning ensures that your broom as a high tribe retains its shapely crown. When you make the cut, in turn, depends on the end of each flowering period. By autumn at the latest, you should cut back all side shoots that protrude from the crown. During the year, consistently remove branches from the trunk that sprout below the crown. Ideally, you should be able to cut off steeply up-facing competitor shoots in a timely manner because they claim nutrients and water. In conjunction with the shape cut or in the late winter clear the crown thoroughly.

Video Board: Prune this: How to prune Common English Ivy and root cuttings.

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