How to cut the cherry - How to do it!

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How to cut the cherry - How to do it!: drive

While the pillar cherry produces tasty fruits with proper care and proper cut, the Japanese cherry remains entirely without fruiting. It is a pure ornamental cherry that impresses with initially pink and later white flowers and a striking, yellow-orange autumn leaves. However, without any cut, both species do not get along.

Best time for pruning

Columnal cherries are very vigorous plants that should be cut regularly. The right time depends on the age and condition of the plant as well as the type of cut. In addition, it makes a difference, whether it is a fruitful cherry tree or ornamental wood. In contrast to the fruitful cherry tree, which tolerates even thicker cuts, you should cut the ornamental cherry only minimal.
A first parenting is often done in the nursery. The shape cut, which serves to maintain the growth habit, is carried out in spring and autumn. Immediately after the harvest in summer follows the conservation cut, which contributes to the formation of new fruit shoots. A rejuvenation cut is only due every few years in late summer, especially on old, longer neglected or heavily bleached specimens.

Educational Section - Instructions

  • Educational cut usually already done in the nursery
  • If not, it should be done before planting
  • Shorten the tree by about a third
  • Strong next summer, select terminal center drive as trunk extension
  • With an increase of more than 50 cm, cut center drive again in the same year
  • Shrinking up to August secondary shoots that are longer than 30 cm, cut back
  • Shorten shoots to 20 -30 cm
  • Central drive remains untouched to avoid branching
  • Pruning leads to denser but short branching
  • The fruit wood develops on shoots along the main trunk
  • Remove competitive drives at the tip of the main drive to the strongest
  • Or cut back to two eyes

Cut the column cherry

Intensive cutting measures are a must with this wood. If the pruning is neglected, the poplar or columnar form is lost relatively quickly and the cherry is developing more and more to a bush. If the plant is to be brought up in a single drive, you leave the strongest center drive and remove all side branches and competitive drives at the top of the main drive. Young and herbaceous lateral shoots can also be torn out around the end of May.
Tip: It may be useful not to cut the shoots directly on the trunk, because by appropriate side branches usually increases the fruit yield.

Procedure for shape cutting

With the shape cut the pillar cherry is cut into shape 1-2 times a year. For a typical columnar shape, that of the columnar apple, you tear out all the competition impulses with your hands. Side shoots are cut off directly on the middle drive and too long fruit shoots or those that are longer than 30 - 35 cm are cut back to 20 - 25 cm. Competitive drives on the main drive are again removed directly at the beginning.
If the shape is more like a poplar or a very slender Christmas tree, as it is actually more characteristic of the columnar cherry, the stone shoots in the lower part should always be slightly longer than the rest. For this purpose, shorten the lower lateral shoots to about 7-8 buds, lateral shoots in the middle part to about 5-6 and in the upper part to 2-4 buds.

Instructions for a conservation cut

  • Best time for the conservation cut is after the harvest in the summer
  • Cut all side shoots back to 2 - 3 buds
  • From this, fruit-bearing shoots develop this year
  • In addition, all sick, weak, old, too dense shoots cut from the tree
  • Even heavily woody and intersecting shoots remove
  • If necessary, also shorten the guide drive
Pillar fruit such as the columnar cherry grows only conditionally columnar but still significantly narrower than usual fruit trees. For good stability, it should not be higher than 250 cm. A corresponding height limitation takes place as in a column apple. Cut the mainspring to the desired size and derive it on a small side shoot. From this side shoot, a new leader develops. If this too tall, the whole thing is repeated.
Tip: In older pillar cherries, the center drive should not be shortened as much as possible.

Make a rejuvenation cut

Old and thick wood on pillar cherries that have not been blended for a long time or that have a high degree of concealment at the bottom does not bear fruit. However, a balding in old age is normal, because the pillar cherry grows towards the light.In order to stimulate such plants to new shoots and to bring them back into shape, cut old wood back to a length of 10 - 15 cm. Slightly shortened again and again the new boom, which shows up in the spring. This leads to a better branching. A strong pruning has the disadvantage that you first have to do without flowers.
Tip: Stronger cutbacks according to this manual always carry the risk of rubber flow and should therefore take place between the end of February and the beginning of March, after the main freezing period. This concerns the normal columnar cherry and the ornamental cherry tree alike.

What to look for

Cut the column cherry

Mistakes in the first few years are difficult to correct. It is not enough with a planting or parenting cut. This fruit tree can be raised one or more shoots. Competitive drives to the mainstream should be removed regularly. In the case of cutting measures, the temperatures should never be below freezing, the cuts should always be placed vertically and directly at the base and larger cuts should be closed.
Blooming flowers are not removed, which would reduce the fruit yield. The situation is different when the flowers wither due to a disease, the so-called Monilia lace drought. Then not only the flowers, but all affected shoots should be cut back to healthy wood.

Column cherry no typical column fruit

The naturally columnar shape is found only in the columnar apple. It forms flowers and fruits directly on the stem. The slender growth of cherry trees offered as pillar fruit is only partially genetic. For the most part their special growth is the result of breeding selection.
They do not maintain their shape permanently, grow more upward with a stronger tip and side shoot promotion and require much more care than, for example, a column apple. They grow up to 400 cm in height and 150 cm in width. The fruits grow here not directly on the trunk, but on the branches or side branches. In order to develop their typical slim growth habit and to keep the tree in general form, the first-time upbringing cut is as important as a regular form and maintenance cut.

Japanese columnar cherry / ornamental cherry

The Japanese Columnal Cherry is a pure ornamental wood, it bears no fruit. Their blooms are active for several years. Back cuts should be as small as possible, then it grows nicely. Stronger cuts can destroy the typical growth habit. You only remove sick, damaged and annoying branches and twigs. To avoid rubber flow, cut preferably between February and March.

Video Board: How To Prune Cherry Trees Simple Steps.

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